kar120c

Took the timing cover off today, verified cam was properly set. Put the oil slinger on while I was in there, looks like I forgot to install it the first time. :shake: Set the distributor for just past 3'oclock and it still wouldn't start. Took distributor apart and noticed the inside of the rotor mount (the part the passes the pickup sensor) was really rusty. Took a wire wheel to it, re-installed and SUCCESS!

Rockauto.com Edelmann P/N 80402 $6.76 There wasn't a pre-made formed line listed for an 88 4.0L, however it *was* listed under a 92 4.0L. Both models list/use the same power steering pump. Rockauto has great prices but sometimes they don't list the part you need for a specific vehicle model, even if they do have it in stock. Sometimes you have to search for a similiar drivetrain/model to find the part you need. For instance, I needed a power steering pulley for my 91 2.5L MJ. They didn't have one listed for a 91 Comanche, but did list one for a 91 Cherokee with the same engine.

What engine do you have? I just picked one up from rockauto a few weeks ago.

I only had enough time last night to test wiring. Going to test injectors today but I'm pretty sure they are firing. Plugs smelled of gas when I pulled them. For the 2.5L my FSM says the rotor is slightly past the 3'oclock position at TDC. In this configuration, my rotor is lined up directly to the #1 terminal. partsmj, you say it goes slightly before #1 (3'oclock) Chilton says 6'oclock position. :huh???: FSM says 3:30'ish. :wall:

I did some reading and supposedly I shouldn't worry too much about the compression being a bit low since the rings haven't been broken in. Makes sense to me anyways. Is it possible the cam sensor / pickup coil in the distributor is bad?

Dizzy is good. At zero degrees tdc, compression stroke, both valves closed.

Even after replacing my bad CPS, I still can't get the engine to start. After a few seconds it briefly catches for a brief split second, then nothing. Has good fuel psi, spark, coil is good, new cap, rotor, wires, new injectors, etc... Ran a compression test which was less than encouraging. 1) 132 psi 2) 120 psi 3) 142 psi 4) 150 psi I know I quadruple checked my timing chain when I put it on, and I pulled the valve cover tonight and watched both valves close at TDC. Distributor is properly indexed and pointing to #1 terminal at TDC. Is it possible I screwed up the timing chain? Any ideas because I'm completely out.....:wall:

If you are looking at purchasing a built engine, I'd highly recommened S&S Engine Reman located in Washington state. www.rebuilt-auto-engines.com Will cost you just under $1500 according to current prices on their website which includes shipping both ways. Few years back I restored an 85 CJ7 and purchased a rebuilt 4.2 from them. Customer service was excellent, engine was packaged extremely well and came with a new oil pump and full felpro gasket set.

I spent a large chunk of the day wrenching and *almost* got her started. Did one last final inspection, put the key in the ignition, turned it........wurr wurr wurr wurr....nothing. I must have checked the timing chain at least 5 times before I bolted the cover on so I knew it wasn't that. Double checked TDC and distributor which was good. Did some more poking around and discovered my CPS was bad. Will have to wait until the stores open back up tomorrow.... :fs1: Anyways, all I have left is too hook up the heater control cable, install front shocks and changed both front / rear diff fluid. :clapping:

According to Novak 21 spline was used in the 242 until 90. Should be compatible assuming info is correct. http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/np ... _gears.htm

I love those CJ shots...makes me miss my CJ7 even more. Song is horrible.... :D

Progress :D Should have it stripped down to the bare frame today and then off to the local sandblasting shop. Image Not Found

Tried the local Walmart but their selection was very slim. Cheapest was still $70. I don't shop there anymore after last weekend. Walked out and left my cart in the checkout line.

:rotfl2: I think we've all had conversations like that at one time or another.

/begin rant No wonder stereos are a hot item to be stolen. Cheapest place I've found is $70+S&H for a stinking plain jane CD player. No remote, faceplate, MP3, etc.. I just don't get it. To play a CD audio disc which is leftover tech from the 90's, it will cost me $70+. Yet, you can go out and buy a 8gb micro SD chip for $15. Granted this isn't comparing apples to apples, but it seems like there is a huge gap between computer and car electronics. Has this always been normal? I've never been a car audio enthusiast and have always used the stock jeep stereos systems. Anyways I've tried local pawn shops (too expensive and I'm not buying stolen property :fs1: ) and I tried Good Will. VCRs and casette players ! :eek: I might as well just keep the stock jeep radio with cassette. It still works and I can always buy some Johnny Cash tapes on ebay to keep me sane. /rant off P.S. Anyone have a CD stereo they want to sell me? :yes:

Made some recent progress. Rebuild is approximately 95% complete. Still need to buy a stereo and battery and passenger side breaks need to be done. Exhaust parts on order with Rockauto, after which I can start the engine and break it in. Installed my power steering pump pressure hose just to realize it had a huge hole in it. After discovering I was missing a power steering pressure switch I decided to just cap it with bolt since I wasn't paying $60. As it turns out, nobody in town carries a M10x1.00 bolt. Kind of a weird combo I guess. Anyways, I tried the local junkyard which is only about a mile from my house. They had a switch that came out of a mid 90's Dakota truck with the 2.5L. $10 Image Not Found "new" driveshaft from Driveline Service of Portland. New shaft was going to cost me around $400-450 and I didn't save my old 2wd shaft :wall: Anyways they had a used shaft out of a Corvette that was only 1" too long. Shortened, balanced, painted and new greasable joints for a bit over $130. :clapping: Image Not Found

Does your setup use a pilot bearing or pilot bushing? If using a bushing, it's possible the transmission input shaft is catching ont the inside of the bushing. This is usually due to the transmission not being lined up with the bell housing. The other possibility could be the clutch disc was installed backwards. This will cause the symptoms you are describing...believe me when I say this comes from personal experience. (Don't do a clutch job at 1am in the morning :shake: lol)

I just bought a new muffler and cat through rockauto.com. Cheaper than local stores even after shipping. Everything is bolt on and requires no welding. Do you also need the downpipe and the section that runs from the muffler to the tailpipe? If that is rusted out, you'll need a shop to bend you new tubes.

If you're looking to buy you could go with Tom Wood's shafts. http://www.4xshaft.com/ Mine was around $225 IIRC when I did my SYE install. You could also try these guys, $195 for stock shaft + S&H. http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com

Looking for front and rear driveshaft to fit my 1991 2.5L 5spd shortbed. If anyone has a used / spare one let me know. Thanks. Nothing at local junkyards or craigslist, trying to save a bit of $ instead of $250-400 on a shaft.

Definately needs some work. Engine was painted and looked "rebuilt", PO wasn't sure. He inherited from a second PO who said it was "rebuilt". Pulled the valve cover and discovered mouse droppings....yikes. Pulled the head and discovered 3 frozen valves. Haven't pulled the pan but safe to say engine needs a rebuild. Some minor pitting on block head and cylinder walls.

I'm almost finished with my Comanche, mostly cooling / exhaust systems parts and driveshafts. Last weekend I made one heck of a trade, 84 Ranger for a 52 M38A1. Needs some body/paint work and lots of smaller missing parts here and there but otherwise mostly complete. Everything it needs is still available and a pretty fair price. Teaser pic below. Image Not Found A few more below

Old school FPS PC gamer here. I remember the days of playing Doom head-to-head via a 25pin serial cable. :D Used to playe BF 1942 and BF 2 heavily but since they died out, I've switched to BF Bad Company 2 on the PC. If you guys play on the PC at all I'd be very interested. BF 3 looks great. I can't play FPS (or any games for that matter) on consoles. All left thumbs...

Haven't done much due to life and work but I did manage to rig up some cheap linkage for the transfer case. Donor linkage was about x4 too long (automatic or different model?) anyways only cost a few dollars a the local hardware store. Image Not Found Initially it was pretty stiff but once I sprayed some grease into the pivot points, it shifted perfectly.

I had my cam reground but don't know the lift or duration. I just told the shop I didn't want anything crazy that was going to throw off my idle or require special machining and parts for the head. As for mods, I've heard putting a 4.0 intake on the MPFI models can give you a boost. The 4cyl isn't a bad little engine but the fact of the matter is this. It is 4 cylinders moving a 4000+ lb vehicle. As others said, gearing I think would be the best investment. Clifford header would be nice if you have the extra cash.