kar120c

Jeepstrokers.com forum is a great resource, enough information to make your head spin. Sgt beat me to it on the crank info. :D

Neat! Free too! http://furycomics.com/viewer/9/Jeep_Com ... /?i=1&m=S9

Thanks for trying!

I don't run a lift, I need a stock style front shaft. Has to be from a 4cyl, manual transmission setup. All the other drivetrain combos are way too long, 30-40 inches. Anything longer than 26" collapsed, isn't going to fit. While I'm not a cheapskate, I don't want to pay the $200 that a couple local junkyards wanted. If you have one that works, that would be great. I suppose you'd need to check what shipping costs first though. Let me know, thanks! :thumbsup:

Looking for a front CV shaft to finish my 4wd conversion. Transfer case is the NP231 and collapsed length needs to be a little over 25 inches longs (center of cap to cap). :wrench:

Also check the wiring on the coil pickup sensor. The little rubber proective booty thing in mine had shrunk from age, allow the two connectors to fit loosely. If I poked or wiggled the connectors the jeep wouldn't start or would stumble. It would also stumble on the bad patch of road by my house which was riddled with potholes. I'd hit a nasty one causing the wiring to move/bounce. Replaced the boot with an old one out of a spare sensor I had and it fits nice and tight now. Secured the wiring better as well.

I had a weird starting issue which all I needed to do was check the codes, as pointed out by fellow members. Disconnect your battery and let it sit for about 10 minutes. Reconnect, attempt to start. Peform procedure listed below viewtopic.php?f=9&t=29857 Thew code 54, distributor sync sensor. Replaced it and all is well. Did you already check fuel pressure?

Personally, I'd pass. You can build your own budget stroker for around the same cost. Selling a stroker after only 50k seems a bit suspect. Great resource is http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/, I'm always lurking about there. :D

I don't know about petroleum jelly, but I always use a very small amount of clean motor to lubricate the o-rings before I install them.

:rotfl2: I thought it was a real commerical at first. Are we the only three on here with a warped sense of humor? :D

I've always used RAM clutches in all my Jeeps, OEM line. Never had a single problem and they are decently priced too. http://www.ramclutches.com/

Looks like my pressure is dropping 5psi every minute. Books says 20psi after about 30 minutes is normal but I'm almost there. So it looks like a new fuel pump is in order then.

It bounces wildly at 35, hard to tell what the exact reading is. I'll try a pressure leakdown test too.

Put a new fuel filter in less than 500 miles ago. 35psi at idle, 40psi with vaccuum disconnected which is in spec according to my manual. Anyways this morning the weather warmed up, jeep started fine. Drove it for about 30 miles with no problem. Got home, shut it down. Came back out 30 minutes later and it wouldn't start again. After about 7-8 tries it started fine. This is driving me nuts. Almost everything in the engine compartment new except for: coil (slightly out of spec, book says 1.2-1.4ohms, reads 1.5ohms) coil pickup inside distributor IAC coolant temp sensor manifold air temp sensor All those items are about $40 ea at the local parts store, trying to avoid just throwing more money into an unknown problem.

I thought moisture as well but cap is dry as a bone. I just tried to fire it up and it spit & sputtered, I had to rev it to 3k for a few seconds then it idles fine. Still pretty cold this morning though, sun hasn't come out yet.

BUMP

Damn Jeep is really starting to piss me off, at wits end. In the morning or evening when the temperature is around 60 degrees, the motor will not start. I can crank all day and it never starts. Soon as the outside temperature warms up to about 80, the jeep turns over quickly on first try. CPS is new and I already tested the coil and CTS with an ohm meter, both were within spec. Any ideas? :(

I still consider myself a "noob" when it comes to the older military syle jeeps but I'm starting to learn my way abouth MB, M38 series, etc..Appears you have a CJ2A, giveaway is the 7 slot grill. MBs have a 9 slot grill. :thumbsup: For $500, that looks like a hell of a good deal to me. Jeep looks pretty good for sitting out in the elements for all these years. I'd personally jump on that offer but that is just me.

I miss the days of dial-up, service seemed prompt and you had a million different ISPs to choose from. Now it seems you only get to choose from 1 provider (more if you are lucky) and their service sucks. All I have to choose from is Qwest which is $60 a month for a 3mbps / 768k. My last move, I had to wire up the box on the side of the house myself because I wasn't going to wait a week for a tech to get out here. Not sure if it was vandals or previous owner but all the cable / telephone lines had been cut. I'm hoping Verizon service is better than Qwest, I'm moving in a few weeks and I'm going with business FIOS 25/25 plan. :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool:

If your shaking is brought on every time between 50-55 I'd say tires are probably extrememly out of balance or shot. If the tires are new or you know them to be balanced it is probably ball joints or tie rods like banshee suggested. I'd also take a look at your bushings on the lower and upper control arms. My death wobble was from worn out lower control arm bushings.

I had the same problem recently, tach worked but speedo didn't. Almost all of the screws on the back were loose, tightened them down and my speedo started working.

They were quality torx bits, the screw head became rounded. I also failed to mention I did exactly as Jeepco suggested. After I whacked the bad TPS off, I removed what was left of the heads and tried two different sets of vice grips along with my bench vice. After 20 years, I think the screws weren't coming out.

Just picked up a new TPS for my recently rebuilt 91 2.5L MJ, old one was way out of spec. I go to remove the old one, and low and behold.....torx screws. So first I try my screwdriver...no dice. :dunno: Then I try using a small 1/4" drive socket wrench and destroy two torx bits trying to get it off. So off comes the whole throttle body. :( At this point, I figured "no problem, just get out my trusty screw extractors". Drill a small hole, tap the extractor in, begin to put some torque on the extractor and off pops the screw head. :fs1: Now it's time to get down to serious business. Using the precision of a watchmaker, I then promptly remove the problem screws (along with the TPS) using my 10lb calibrating hammer. Now we are getting somewhere... :D I then start to drill out the broken screws only to destroy two drill bits. Apparently torx screws are made out of Adamantium :headpop: At this point, I remove the IAC and bin the damn thing. I figured the only good thing to come out of this is a new bored-out throttle body I just bought off ebay. I don't know who in their right mind would *EVER* use a torx screw in an automobile, let alone anything else. People who knowingly uses torx screws should be horse-whipped naked down main street. :yes:

I too found a small leak this weekend, though in a different place. My leak is coming from the monkey engineered plastic coupler thing midway from the master to the slave. I ran across this thread posted by TerraWombat (great writeup and pics, thanks Terra) :thumbsup: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=30530&start=0 Writeup shows what you need to replace the existing clutch line with some nice -3AN braided stainless. I found all the parts needed on summitracing.com for $43 + S&H. If you go this route, just make sure you buy the right master cylinder adapter, there are two types. Up to 1991 is the screw in type so technically all MJ owners would have this unless they did a master cylinder swap. Threaded fitting on master is P/N 716130 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ADD-716130F/ 48" braided stainless line with 90 deg bend http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-63011748ERL/ -3AN male to 7/16"-24 female adatper http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-989549ERL/

I use a cheapo $10 1/2" drive breaker bar I picked up at harbor freight. Probably one of the more useful hand tools I own.