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kar120c

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  1. kar120c

    AX5 value?

    Got my 2.5 in the machine shop right now and in the process of rebuild my NP231. I didn't plan on putting a used high mileage transmission between the two. What would be a reasonable price to pay for a used one? I see a couple in my local area on craigslist for 150-350. I'm thinking 150 since a rebuild kit with synchros is around 200 assuming I rebuild it myself. I ran across an AX-15 + bellhousing for 150 but from what I understand I can't put the 15 behind my 2.5. :(
  2. Dropped the block off at the machine shop today. Hopefully have it in a few days and assemble it next weekend. :banana:
  3. If you want to get them professionaly serviced, I'd highly recommend http://www.witchhunter.com/. I used their service about year ago to clean my 01 Cherokee injectors and replace o-rings. Most of them were fairly good except for one which was way out of spec. Helped my idle greatly.
  4. caster = 6.14º left, 6.08º right I've got a 3.5" lift and I thought 6º is about what I want. I have adjustable LCAs.
  5. Lines seemed fine and they are fairly new. I replaced my stock lines about 2 years ago with the longer YJ ones. The problem is almost completely gone and none of the tires drag when I have the jeep up on jackstands. The jeep doesn't "pull" anymore but will tends to ever-so-slight wander to the right. Could it possibly be camber? Left side is within spec ( -0.67 , -0.75 min 0.50 max) but right side is ( -0.80).
  6. *Update* No longer "pulls" right, but still has some throttle steer when I let off the gas. :hmm: Definatley 100x better than it was. At first I inspected the rear brakes, no drag and everything looked good inside. Checked front right...uh oh. Dragged like a SOB. Took the whole right side apart and put it back on. No drag. Went for a drive but problem was still there except when I braked, it pulled HARD to the left. Checked left side...dragged also. Took that side apart as well, inspected, put back together. I bleed both sides twice and used my mityvac which seemed to do the trick. Not sure what the issue was but something was wrong with brakes. My pedal is more firm now and the brakes seem to respond better. Dirty or debris? Slow leak? Air bubble...no idea. :nuts:
  7. I already had the manifolds and all the other accessories removed since I was doing a complete rebuild. Even the oil pan was off so I was only pulling the block and head out. As for your knock, my guess would be bearings or maybe your bolts holding your torque converter are loose. If you are pulling the engine to replace gaskets, (I assume you will be doing the pan gasket) good time to inspect your bearings. Rockauto.com has some screaming deals on the .010 undersize and regular size main bearings ($23 a set for Sealed Power brand). Connecting rod bearings are $22 a set.
  8. When I removed mine, I had bring it out at a 45 deg angle to clear the front of the jeep. This was with the radiator removed. I had two chains connected to the motor mount adapters (don't know the actual name). The actual metal-enlcosed rubber mounts were still attached to the frame. All I had to do was let gravity work it's course. The front end tilted up once I took the motor mount bolts out and just lifted the engine out with the hoist. Only other thing I would suggest to do with the engine out is to rebuild it :D If it isn't needed and/or within your budget leave it as is I guess. :thumbsup:
  9. You'll get it, just takes practice. :thumbsup: Having a vehicle that isn't properly tuned or running doesn't help either. I had to learn stick pretty quickly though. When I bought my 01 XJ, I hadn't drove stick except for a couple practice sessions years earlier. Bought my jeep on a Sunday, had to drive 38 miles to work on Monday in mixed city/hi-way driving in Portland. Needless to say I learned quickly...or at least how to stall the jeep :rotfl2: I'll never go back...I hate automatics now.
  10. I agree. If this was for postal delivery and I was that nuts about using a jeep (which I would of course :yes: ) I would just go get a surplus RHD mail jeep and fix it up. Plenty of them available and cheap too. Maybe the owner is from overseas (or there for that matter) and is unwilling to learn LHD. Either way, this makes no sense to me. :hmm:
  11. I've had this annoying "gremlin" over the last year which is bugging the hell out of me. My 2001 Cherokee started pulling to the right last year. I figured worn tires and a bad alignment was causing the problem. I just got brand new tires put on and a professional alignment (right side was toed in). Everything is within specs now but it still pulls to the right. It almost feels like throttle steer, if you "punch it" it stays nice and straight an soon as you let off, it pulls right. Occasionaly if I brake "medium-to-hard" it will *really* pull to the right and I have to turn the steering wheel a half turn left to keep it straight. Only thing left I can think of is something to do with the brakes. Sticky caliper, improperly adjusted drums? Any thoughts on this? :dunno: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall:
  12. Why spend all the time, trouble and money to convert to a v8? Would be easier to build a stroker but that is just me.
  13. I'm with glundbland. If I had 15k in cash and a place to put it, I'd buy that in a heartbeat. My wife would probably leave me though.... :brows:
  14. What a shame. Good lucking truck too. That yard is just up the road from where I work, they always have decent jeeps in there getting scrapped.
  15. *Update* I've been offline for a while due to moving, a new job, baby, etc...Starting my restoration back up. I just ordered the internals (pistons, rings, bearings, etc...) for the block. Hopefully they arrive next week from rockauto. Block will go into machine shop sometime next week too.
  16. I would still take that 27 spline 8.25 over the 35 any day. Welded spider gears..... :wall:
  17. We are now into rainy season here in Oregon. Rain 25 hrs per day. Anyways there is about 3 inches of standing water in the cab and I've found the leak. Front right corner of the foot-well behind the plastic interior trim. I suspect the windshield since both the drivers / pass side is flooded. Is there any sort of seal where the quarter panel meets the A-frame & hood? Need to replace the rear window seal too since there is water back there too. Really frustrating since I kept the car covered with a brand new tarp. Whole jeep is bone dry including bed except for inside the cab. :fs1: Oh and I've done side windows before but never a front windshield. Any special tools I need and how hard is the job? Will be nice when I get my garage put back together. I just moved and now have a large two-car garage at my disposable. For now the jeep is just sitting outside drowning... :roll:
  18. You don't need a new carrier. Not sure about the shafts, I'm sure someone probably has some stronger ones available. As for the locker, nothing but good reviews about ARB. Not sure if I'm going to put one in my 8.25...still undecided myself. Pricey though.
  19. Video cameras are nice if you can afford a system. Best option I think is a silent / personal alarm. Last house I lived in, the local neighborhood rats broke my driver side window in an attempt to steal my stereo. That was the first night in our new house. :fs1: Wish I had a silent alarm back then. The rats wouldn't have heard anything except for the sound of 3" 12ga 00 buckshot chambering into my 870.
  20. Awesome find CW, I'm jealous. Hard to find CJ's with hardtops / doors in decent condition. Can't say I'm a big fan of the yellow paint or fenders. Are you going to do a complete restoration or just clean it up?
  21. http://www.webejeepin.com/Jeep_Humor/Be ... -Women.htm :D
  22. $850 complete with no core required? Seems almost too good to be true. Assuming S&H is reasonable and not $500 :D
  23. If you decide to sell the Merkur you could try this forum http://www.locostusa.com/ I'm a member over there and the Merkur is a popular donor for this home built car. Assuming the drivetrain is solid (engine, trans, axle, etc..) you should have no problem selling it. :thumbsup:
  24. kar120c

    Uncle Ted

    Sinkrun, have you looked at a smaller 1911 variant? I carry a fullsize Govt MKIV model most of the time but during the summer or depending on my clothes I'll carry my Colt Commander. Small profile, lighter than it's bigger brother, and conceals very nicely. 7+1 round capacity as well.
  25. kar120c

    Uncle Ted

    /agreed :USAflag:
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