kar120c

I'm planning on a 4.0 TB and electric fan swap after I get my 2.5 rebuilt. I'm on 225/70/15 with 3.55's. Will have to make do until I can afford to swap in 4.10's. x2 on the camshaft however you will probably need to get a custom ground one. I've yet to run across any aftermarkets cams for the 2.5. Anyways my local shop said $60 for custom regrind so I'm gonna go with whatever he says. I'll trust any machinist that owns a jeep :D

Sweet Mary Mother of Christ! That has got to be bad for your health but it looks sooooooooo good. :D Reminds me of Homer Simpson and his triple bypass surgery. He was sitting on the couch watching a commerical for something like "4 pounds of beef...topped with bacon, wrapped in bacon, .......with 4 kinds of cheese...layered in bacon..." lol How about a turbaconuken? Two smaller animals each inside of a larger animal, wrapped in bacon! :eek: :drool: http://whoisjoetheblogger.blogspot.com/ ... nuken.html

My 95 FSM illustrates a GRAY / LIGHT BLUE wire running from the PCM to the instrument cluster. This is for the stock tachometer. If you don't have this wire, the negative coil wire *should* be the black wire coming out of your ignition coil. Hope that helps. :thumbsup:

Dude, that sucks. What sucks worse is the local stealership said I got the last factory bumper. :brows: Someone rear-ended my dad right before he gave the Jeep to me.

Yours came with a bolt? :eek: :brows: lol I've had mine for quite some time on my Cherokee but it didn't come with a bolt. It reused the original bolt which was too "skinny". There was a lot of slop between the bolt and the track-bar end. I had to visit the local hardware store and scrounge through bins of bolts with a digital caliper to find one that fitted correctly.

My grandparents owned one for quite a while and my uncle inherited it after they passed away. You might be better off trying to sell it to these guys. The restore them and sell'em for big bucks. Highly popular especially here in Oregon for some reason. www.gowesty.com They also have a large stock of aftermarket parts and engine kits.

http://www.hemmy.net/2006/04/26/crazy-c ... rom-japan/ Couple pics down. I bet that thing goes hella fast. :rotfl2:

Good website with lots of write-ups and pictures. http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoRearMain.htm If I were you, I'd keep all the oil pan bolts in order as you take them out. Some are different sizes and it is damn frustrating to hold the pan up by yourself and realize you have the wrong size bolt. :D

I clicked on the thread because the title had me thinking "oh, must be one of those fun ball joint replacing events". :D Oh that and :needpics: seriously though, gross lol

Thanks Eagle for the clarification on the ZJ / WJ engine choice. The seller apparently doesn't want cash now, but a trade instead. I wasn't interested in buying from him anyways, I won't do business with people who respond with slang, bad spelling, and piss poor language. Total lack of disrepect for others. :headpop: The search continues.

k, thanks. How about this one? Still going to sell the TJ but we also have a 2002 Chevy Cavalier that was basically given to us for free. It is worth about the same price and was considering trading for this one. (Assuming it checks out okay) http://salem.craigslist.org/cto/1230642789.html I would put the original tires back on though and get rid of the body lift. Going to contact the seller because he doesn't say what year it is. I'd also like to know what trasnfer case it has.

I've got two boys, 3 and 18 mos so I don't need a huge amount of space at the moment. Right now our budget would be no more than 4k. Around this area in Oregon, that will get me a nice ZJ since the WJ's start around 6k used. I'm not planning on going 4x4'ing or towing anything so the 4.7 seems like a decent choice. Only person that will probably drive is my wife anyways. I've been reading other Jeep forums and it seems like a lot of people are having problems with the NP249 but I don't care for AWD anyways. Going to keep my eye out for a nice ZJ with the 4.0 or 4.7 with a 242 and one of the recommended transmissions.

Yeah, I think everyone got confused. I'm not getting rid of my XJ (over my dead body :rotfl2: ). Too much money, blood and sweat into it. It has also been paid off since 2002 so no monthly payments which is nice. We are getting rid of the 00 TJ which just sits in our driveway. Not my Jeep or decision to keep it since my wife bought it before we met. What started this whole "I want to get a grand cherokee" is she drove her friends GC which she liked tremendously. So here I am looking at replacing one jeep with another which doesn't bother me one bit.

Thanks for all the input. As for the WJ, I don't care at all for the style and they are out of our price range for the moment. I'm also still holding a grudge against Chrysler for discontinuing the Cherokees and then later ditching 4.0. Damn you DC!!!! :fs1: I figured I could always stroke the 4.0 if I needed more power which is the case of my 01 XJ. Not to mention there seems to be a lot more performance mods for the 4.0. I didn't see much in the way of the 4.7. So how does the 4.7 fair with gas mileage if you don't "lay into it"? Told my wife no way in hell. :brows: I've had the misfortune of owning a van, and trying to work on it. What a PITA.

So my wife and I are looking at Grand Cherokees 93-98 since I want a ZJ with a 4.0 in it. I've never owned a GC before, is there anything I need to be aware of? Input? Suggestions? We will be selling / trading my wifes 00 TJ for it. Third kid on the way and my 01 Cherokee isn't big enough for her. I tried to convince her to let me buy this sweet Wagoneer I saw on craigslist with a 401 in it but that didn't go over too well. It's large enough for 3 kids, built like a tank, and is a Jeep. What more could you need? lol :yes:

I also have the 4cyl and picked out this electric fan. http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/52105/10002/-1 Relay kit to match http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/10561/10002/-1 All for about $132 which isn't too bad. I've purchased replacement radiators from radiatorbarn.com before and never had any issues with them. They also have free shipping which is nice.

Actually there should be four. http://www.freeimagehosting.net/image.p ... 3873e8.jpg

Well soon as funds permit, I'll either do a swap or just send everything to the shop and do a complete rebuild. Either way I was going to need to send the head in to be checked, I didn't like the color of a few of the valves. I suspect possible cracks.

Yeah, would need a new bellhousing among other things. AX-15 would be a better than the AX-5, plus I wouldn't need to screw around with that stupid internal clutch setup. Dang jeeps lol

The ridges were removed so no hang up there. Only thing I can think of is the manufactuer boxed the wrong rings, maybe they are oversized who knows. Soon as I start my new job I may say "to hell with it" and just do a 4.0 swap. I have 3.55's and a 5spd so that would accomodate a 4.0 better I suppose. Guess I'll move onto interior work in the meantime.

I read that part in the manual where is tells you to check for ring gap. The instrutions that came with the pistons were fairly general and said some applications require the rings to be filed. Anyways I went back to the garage with my instructions and caliper. Both the old and new rings have the same exact gap when installed so no problem there. The instructions state: "No portion of the inside diameter should protrude b eyond the piston land." This statement is true for the old rings however NOT for the new ones. The width of the old rings is 4.4mm while the new ones are 4.6mm and protrude noticably past the land. So my guess is maybe the manufacter boxed the wrong size rings? This would make sense why the pistons have such a hard time moving is because the rings are too big.

So my new piston rings came in the mail yesterday and I installed them correctly onto the old pistons. The pistons were cleaned up and de-gunked prior to installation. Without rings, the pistons move very freely within the cylinder walls. After putting the new rings on I'll be damned if I could get the pistons to move at all. They are oriented correctly and in their respective order. I removed them, tried again with lots of lube and oil and they still don't move. With a ring compressor and deadblow hammer they fit right in but soon as they reach TDC, they don't want to move at all. What the hell is going on? I doubled check the boxed set that came, Hastings part # 665. :wall: With new rings I expect a tighter seal but this is ridiculous.

I know a new window + install around here costs a little over $200 which is too much. What I probably need to do is find a good 91-96 donor XJ since I need some odds/ends. Window, gauge cluster, armrest, front driveshaft, etc..

Thanks for the tip, I'll give the polishing compound a try. I think I still have some hidden away.... *UPDATE* Bah, the polishing cleaned up the small grooves pretty well but the deeper ones still remain. Guess I'll try some compound specifically for scratched glass. Hope that works because I'd rather spend my money on something else.

When I first picked up the MJ from my dad I noticed a wide scratch running the length of the drivers side window about 1" wide. The culprit seems to be one of the metal clips that hold the window seal in place. The clip rusted and was bent out of shape which rubbed against the window when it went up and down. The other clips aren't even close to the window so my only guess is the window mechanism is tweaked. I know something isn't right because the window can be rocked in a forward / backward motion. Any advice where to start? My 01 XJ developed the same problem after some jackal rat bastard :fs1: broke my window and the window repair guy screwed up the install. Apparently there is a kit to fix it here. http://www.steigerperformance.com/products/sp12001.html Anyways any really good window scratch repair products that anyone recommends?