WyoCherokee

Cruiser said it best.....welcome to the addiction. once you go MJ, you never go back.

the 2.5 is no speed demon. It will do the job, but don't expect to get there in a hurry. couple with an auto, it won't be any better. on the plus side, with the auto it should have 4.56 gears. on my 2.5 with the ax-5, i ran 225/75/15's and it did pretty good on the highway.

i made my own bucket mounts from a pair of 1x1 tubing pieces. took me maybe 3 hours to mount 2 seats. there really isnt any way to make a "universal" mount because each seat is different. I used 2 door XJ seats from a 97.

33x12.5x15 Good years. unknown 8" wheels. 4.25 front with Rustys 3" HD coils and 2 stock isolators, 4.75 rear SUA with a AAL and rough country shackle.

Got some more goodies in....rubicon expres stuff, a diff guard, etc.

Alright, i braved photobucket......man i hate that site. here's some updates..... Got 33's put on it. Phjoto shows the difference from 31x10.5's to 33x12.5's. Not sure on Rim backspacing, but they rub the bed when flexing or hitting a pothole and the fronts rub the control arms at full lock. The PO welded the steering stops, so i can't turn those out :fs1: : Got my Cav-Fab Steering in: I am waiting on a couple more parts to show up: stainless brake lines, the actual 3-link and some other small stuff, then i will tear in to her :banana:

Crickets?

Lets see those overland MJ's or your "loaded up and camping" setups!

Member since 2008 :) and 2 MJ's Later

slick lookin rig!

33's and 4.10s is fine with a manual tranny. if you have any certainty at all of going to 35's, you are going to want 4.56's. I would junkyard surf for an 8.8, and buy a re-gear package for your Dana 30. Finding a 4cy 4x4 with 4.10s will be tough. You can either bastard pack your SUA, or go with the Hell Creek 4.5 springs for SUA. Not sure if General Spring will make a 4.5 MJ Spring. You will have to weld perches on the 8.8 even if you stay SUA or if you go SOA. I am with Eagle, Stay SUA and bastard pack your springs. If money is no object, Go for the Hell Creek springs. I am a fan of the Rubicon Express 4.5 front coils. They will give you about 4.75 with a bumper and winch on the front.

Just got word that my Cav-Fab order Shipped ahead of schedule. Yea Buddy!!

Be forewarned the entire front range from Fort Collins to Colorado Springs is very very liberal and varies greatly from the rest of the state. There is a reason that companies like Magpul, Hi-viz, TNT Customs, and many other left the state and moved shop to Wyoming or Utah.

Was that at Bud's Wrecking? i was in Laramie from 07-12 and frequented cheyenne's junkyards as well as Greely's I remember seeing a few MJ's and even robbed parts for my 87. I vaguelly remember seeing that one.

Because uploading pictures here, literally takes me 3x as long. No joke. Here's a teaser of the 3 link.....https://www.instagram.com/p/BPn2NRrAf-s/and yes, that upper link joint is supposed to be like that. It will flex 12" shocks on 35" tires.

Just put my order in for a Cav-fab 3 link, hi clearance steering, RE 6.5 coils, new perches and u-bolts, 4.56 gears and a trutrac front....Let the modding begin!

Finishing up a Center Console, since i switched to bucket seats. The sloped section will house all my switches and guages.

bump up for current pics! yes i know the last post was in 2014

don't hesitate, these little 4 poppers are actually pretty torqy and get great mileage. My old 88 had the tried and try ax-5 and 2.5l I delivered firewoood, hauled rock, and got 25mpg. They like high RPM's, and will scoot right along.

Honestly, whatever is on sale at autozone. My last 3 changes on my xj were valvoline 5w-30 conventional in the winter and 10w-30 in the summer, and a FL1A filter(HO in the Xj and HO filter Nipple in the MJ)

The purpose of bump stops is to limit the distance the suspension can travel in compression, so it won't damage other components. If you add a 4-1/2" lift, you'll almost certainly be running longer shock absorbers, and their compressed length will be longer than the space available if the suspension is fully compressed to the original, factory bump stops. So in order to forestall damage to the shocks, you want to limit the suspension travel so it stops before you reach the compressed length of whatever shocks you're running. If you're not going to take it off-road, which are you lifting it? Tire size also plays a major role.

Bump stops keep your shocks from bottoming out. I highly doubt you will need to add hockey pucks, butt you will for sure need to add longer upper stops. Daystar makes a set that will for 4.5"lift with 31 to 33 inch tires

I ran the ZJ Settring with 32" tires. it worked perfect for my needs and didnt break the bank. As far as getting the new coils in... the trick is to jack up the front part of the frame as much as you can. I always set my 6 ton stands as high as they will go, and set the frame on that. Unhook your drag link from the pitman arm, unhook the track bar from the frame bracket, and unhook your lower control arms. the axle will drop down far enough to allow you to take the coils out with some minor coaxing. Even with 4.5" RE Coils. Now is a good time to drill and tap your coil buckets for the "hockey puck bumpstop" and/or install a longer daystar bumpstop in the factory location(you cannot do this with the coils in place). I would advise against a coil spring compressor. It can be dangerous if not done properly and simply isnt needed for 4.5" and shorter coils. One you get the new coils in place, jack up the axle until you can put one lower control arm in. I like to use ratchet straps hooked to another vehicle to align the axle and get the bolts in. Once you have the LCA's in place, hook your steering back up(you may have to adjust the drag link for the increased length. Then mesaure your axle for center on the vehicle using whatever you can for equal reference. YOu may need to shake the rig back and forth to get it centered. then adjsut your track bar end and re-install the frame bracket. Additionally before hooking the TB up, i would suggest upgrading to the RE system which includes a flex joint, frame brace and beefer frame bracket.

Amen!

What size bulb did you use for the heater control? every LED I've used was too long for the housing Those are the stock dash bulbs. Try these guys: http://www.onewaylight.com/1984-2001-jeep-cherokee-xj-instrument-light-set/