onlyinajeep726

Hey, if you mess it up... good time for a 4.0 swap haha... But seriously, you should be fine. If not, a manifold from a 2.5 TBI Jeep will swap on.

This.

I agree. 95% of the time, I'll shop RockAuto, but there are a few things that cost more after shipping than just buying it locally. Overall, I really like RockAuto.

Get it. You'll be glad you did. Banks is a good brand. That is all.

It's just a gimmick to make it seem like their prices are cheaper... I was looking to buy an oil filler cap and the part was ~$3.00. Shipping was ~$4.00. I bet the thing didn't even weigh more than 3-4 oz. AutoZone has the same cap for $7.00.

Thanks man!

CPS perhaps? If it's a manual transmission, it may need a cleaning since worn off clutch material likes to stick to it, causing it to not pick up well. Throttle body may need cleaning as well as IAC.

Have you ever cleaned the C101 connector? Also, is the TPS adjusted correctly?

I love RockAuto... I just hate how each item is charged shipping, even if each item is coming from the same warehouse... Messed up since they're all stuffed into one box.

The insert on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Ram-Dakota-Jeep-Wrangler-manual-transmission-shift-knob-pattern-insert-OEM-/151229018294?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AJeep|Model%3ACherokee&hash=item2335f3b0b6&vxp=mtr

That thing is an oil blow-by filter for the CCV system used on the 2.5's. Goes on top of the valve cover in the rear of it, on the plastic valve cover. Since yours was swapped for a later model aluminum one, you have to get a little creative to hook it up (assuming you want to). Photo credit: 87Warrior This is how I hooked it up and the brass fitting up front: And as for the charcoal canister that I sold you, it mounts like this (look directly under the heater hoses): And another picture (it mounts to the passenger side frame rail, lower left corner of the photo below):

This was literally the first arbitrary piece of junk that I removed from my XJ when I started modifying it.

Arbitrary system that's not really needed... Nevermind, just saw you're in Communist California... I'll let another member chime in as to whether it will work. I would think it would, but I'm not for sure.

A little update for the MJ... Got a few thing done to her recently. For starters, new distributor cap with brass studs, new brass rotor and new wires. Got new spark plugs, also. Swapped to a bare aluminum valve cover. The one that was on it had been half-assed painted by the PO... It was flaking worse than a shady friend. While I was swapping them, I decided to steal the Permadry gasket from my XJ (found out I got the wrong one for the XJ anyway... it has a steel cover). Tightened it all back down with silicon-bronze bolts that I acquired for the job. Went to the junk yard today and scored eight Dodge Neon 703 fuel injectors. Cleaned them up with brake fluid, ran brake fluid through them to flush them out good and swapped them in. Right off the bat, I can tell the idle is much smoother, she accelerates noticeably better and hopefully that will translate to an increase in MPG. Now if I could just find a front drive shaft from an AX15 equipped XJ or MJ, then I could actually have 4WD on the truck.

So... was crawling around under the XJ yesterday and noticed the my driver side UCA bushing sleeve (axle side) has slid over and is not centered like it ought to be. Tried using a long pry bar to pop it back in place, to no avail. Figured the fact that there's a lot of weight riding on the front axle, it probably is impossible to just pop it back in like that. Anyway, how could I get it back in place short of unbolting it and busting out a BFH? Can I even unbolt it while it's parked on the ground or would it be safer to do by jacking it up?

My lights didn't work after I did this mod on both my XJ and my MJ. The way I fixed it was to remove the little, thin nylon insert (the piece that slides in to the 5/8" hole you drilled in the booster rod. Once I did that, the switch worked as it should on both my Jeeps. Perhaps that'll help.

That's what we're here for. :thumbsup:

Anymore thoughts on this?

I suggested 4" of lift based on the fact that he will using different rims and based on not trimming fenders at all. You have 31's on stock 15"x6" rims and your flares are removed and fenders trimmed. I know an inch may not seem like much, but when you're turning and flexing simultaneously, it makes a difference. I like the look of your truck by the way... :thumbsup:

Yes, that is quite fortunate. New cars just don't last long, do they? lol. Glad she made it home safe.

Well, I call dibs on the next one you build... You don't have to powder coat it or paint it, I'd prefer to do that. But if you want to clone yours, I'd like to buy it.

And his original post in this thread specifically states that he has a 2.5L. Yes, but that wasn't the question posed when I responded with this answer... The question at that point was about current gear ratio based on current transmission. That part was not stated by the OP, and Rockfrog claimed he already had 4.10's which isn't always the case. Having an 2.5L is not an automatic indication that it has 4.10's. That's what I was getting at there.

While this all seems very easy to do for most of us, could you include pictures of what you did just so a newbie or inexperienced wrencher will have a better idea of what's going on? A picture is worth a 1,000 words.

The 2000 XJ D30 is low pinion and is not as a strong due to the standard rotation of the ring and pinion. It will work and is 100% bolt in, but I'd recommend that '99 XJ D30 as it is high pinion, reverse rotation (stronger design). But yes, any D30 from an XJ is 100% bolt in to our MJs.

Depending on the brand, 32's are an inch taller and an inch wider than 31's. Turning, especially when flexed out, will rub the crap out of the fenders, especially the front, bottom. Not only there, but the LCA's will get a good rub too.