onlyinajeep726

Picture test, negative. I can't see it.

Just for clarity they also put a high-pinion D30 front under the YJ and it is not an easy swap. You're correct and I should have probably been more specific. I was still thinking about using an XJ for parts (since I specified for the rest of the parts) but I can see how that may have been confusing.

To the best of my knowledge, it's there to measure the temperature of the battery to control charging rates.

If you're only looking for an AX15 and 4WD, then your best bet would be to look at a '94 - '99 XJ as those will be external slaved. But you can get an internal slaved AX15 from a '89.5 - '93. I pieced mine together. My AX15 is from a '96 but the transfer case (NP242) is from a '92. Just make sure you grab the crossmember, all of the transfer case levers and linkages, front drive shaft, etc. As for front axle, you can get any high pinion Dana 30 you want, but for simplicity and to not have the additional issues with the vacuum CAD system, look for a later model D30. Make sure you match the gear ratio of your current rear axle to that of the front you obtain.

I want to know who here on CC owns these... they look very familiar. Edit: That rusty '86 is owned (or was owned) by GirsMJ86. The Holley injection on the 2.8 gives it away.

I completely agree on the regear as well... The OP could swap in a 4.0 and turning them wouldn't be a big issue, hehe. :brows: But yea, deeper gears is a must if you wish to go 32's BookspanS.

That's not necessarily true... His sig says he has an '86 Custom. I have an '86 Custom that had the 2.5. It also had the AX4 and my gears are 3.55. If he has the AX5, then yes he would have 4.10's, TF904 3-speed auto and he could have 4.56's. The only way to know for sure is to ask... so, BookspanS... what transmission do you have?

Last I knew, nobody offered anything steeper than 4.88 for the Dana 30 because beyond that the pinion got so small it was guaranteed to break. So 4.88 is the limit, and there's probably a reason why the factory never offered that as a ratio. While this is true, I was just trying to convey to the OP the different gear ratios that are available to answer his question in more depth. Based on the chart, anything over 4.88's would require 35" tires or bigger, and so on, to remain optimal for MPG and power, thus leading to the necessity of swapping to stronger axles and making 5.13's, 5.38's, etc. a viable option. But I do agree that a 4.88's+ in a D30 would not be ideal. But to answer the OP's question, based on the chart (which is just a general idea), I'd say that 4.10's would be optimal for 32" tires.

That's awesome! I love rare stuff on our rare trucks.

You have a 2.5 with an AW4? Isn't that a super rare drivetrain from the factory or have I been misinformed?

A 4-5" lift should suffice for that tire size. By leaf relocate, do you mean converting the rear to spring-over-axle? If so, that will net you a minimum of 4.5" of lift, but could be as much as 6" of lift. As far as regearing goes, that is dependent on your transmission and current gear ratio. If you have the AX4 4-speed, you'll likely have 3.55's. If you have the AX5 5-speed, you'll likely have 4.10's. If you have the TF904 3-speed automatic, you could have either 4.10's or 4.56's. I'm not sure of the exact rule, but I've been told that for every two tire sizes you go up over stock, you want to go numerically up a gear. So, for instance, stock sized tires are 28's, you want 32's. If you have 3.55's now, you want to go up to 4.56's. The stock gear ratios for the axles on our Jeeps go like this, IIRC: 3.07's 3.31's (rare from factory) 3.55's 3.73's 4.10's 4.56's (rare from factory) Anything above 4.56's and you have to buy some from an aftermarket company. These are available from companies such as G2, Superior Gear, Motive Gear, etc.: 4.56's 4.88's 5.13's 5.38's Here's some more info on the subject: http://www.alloyusa.com/gear-ratio-calculator/ It's should clear up any confusion, but it's not an exact science. By the way, not all the gear ratios they have listed across the top of their chart are actually available for our Jeeps.

It's the same sender for 4.0 or 2.5. He said he had a gauge and it was going back and forth from 0 to 45-50, so that rules out the idiot light cluster.

That 2.5 will be gutless without a regear... And unless you want to trim the hell out of your fenders, a lift will be needed to fit that sized tire, especially since the wheel adapters will make them stick out further.

This:

No problems here! I even downloaded some stuff. :thumbsup:

That's pretty bad @$$ if I do say so myself. I like that it's powered by the 225ci Slant-6.

Ben, I think you're on to something sir! You could probably make a small fortune from some folks here on CC with those. How much do you think you have tied up in this money and time wise?

Well, if you'd like to make another one or sell this one, I'd be interested... I think it looks good and with some bed liner, the little imperfections would be concealed well.

Thanks bud!

And... one important thing everyone over looks is, grab the bolts that came with the aluminum cover or go get longer ones. I believe they're 1/4"-20. Not sure of the length...

Yes, the Jeeps of our era use a GM style steering column. As to whether a S10 or other Chevy/GM column would directly swap, I don't know. I would imagine it would take a little modification, but our Jeeps do use GM steering columns for sure.

That's a great job! Looks amazing! How much did it cost to make and can you make more?!? My rear bumper is jacked all to hell and I want something that looks stock (if not a stock one) to replace it.

I took it out because it's different than the 4.0 canister. My 4.0 and associated electronics are still Renix (came from a '90 XJ). I don't know about the missing vacuum ports as I'm not near as familiar with the 2.5's but the EGR stuff does appear to have been removed by the PO. Your best bet is to pick up a Haynes or Chilton manual. They're pretty sufficient in aiding with repairs. But I'll shoot you a PM shortly for that vac canister. Let me just make sure I can find it before I try to sell it haha.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/39539-links-for-25l-to-40l-swap/ My suggestion, find you a good donor to pull everything from. This will help out tremendously. Not only will you have everything you need, but you can see the placement of all the individual pieces so you can get them back together in you MJ. Also, do LOTS of research before you get wrenching. You'll be glad you did. The only thing I'd change about this suggestion is the year. Technically, you can use anything '87 - '90, but I'd recommend a late '89 or '90 to avoid the dreaded C101 connector. That's IF you want to keep it Renix. You can find yourself an HO ('91+) and use the Chrysler management system (OBD I). It's about what you want to do and how deep your pockets are.

The connector you have pictured below goes to a sensor on the high pressure line for the power steering. It's purpose is to manipulate the IAC to up the idle RPM's to aid with steering. Before I did my 4.0L conversion, I had this same plug and it too was just dangling there, not connected like it ought to have been. That's not a biggie though. You have quite a few other issues that take priority. Also, I have the emissions vacuum canister off of my '86. If you'd like to get the truck back up to factory specs, I would be willing to sell it to you for a reasonable price. Looks like this below: