mvusse

I used Napa 11771 (National equivalent is 40576s) which has a bore size of 1.996" and fit perfectly in my 87 D30. A friend recently converted his (don't know offhand what year) and used that same one.

Pull the cover and look at the markings on the ring gear. The tag means nothing as the gears could have been swapped and the same tag reinstalled. It's a Jeep. You can't know what you have without double checking.

Lifting the front will slightly change the rear pinion angle relative to the ground, but not relative to the truck itself or the spring perches.

Some combinations the length will work, but the front driveshaft is not strong enough for a rear axle. A close friend of mine tried that, made it the 90 minute highway drive to the offroad park, then twisted the driveshaft in half within 5 minutes past the gate. Drove home in 4wd (front wheel drive), got another (also front) driveshaft, went back the next day and this one lasted 20 minutes on the trail. Same result. That was last August. He ordered a Tom Woods driveshaft and it has been fine ever since. Get a correct driveshaft made, if the length is right carry a front shaft as a spare to get you off the trail and/or home.

I have a set of the C4x4 also, and have been happy with them so far (three years and counting).

Seems like it. As for preferred day for the museum, don't matter to me.

When I went SOA I bolted everything together (perches NOT YET WELDED) with a bottle jack under the pinion. Used the bottle jack to get the pinion to where it needed to be and tack welded the perches (and shock mounts) into place. I then unbolted everything, tossed the axle into the back of my XJ and drove to a local welding shop to have them permanently burned on.

With a stock style driveshaft the pinion angle needs to be parallel to the transfer case output. http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/pinionangle/

Still have my first. I since added a second one with only 11 difference between the serial numbers.

Maybe somehow the battery is shorting on the hood? And that drained the battery down to 4V? The ballast resistor is supposed to get hot, that's how resistors work.

I can't figure these out: This may be the winner, and (as of two minutes ago) is still available. 87JPMJ

I will probably get historical plates for the Pig next year. Would like to personalize them, but can't think of what to put on them. With historical plates I will be limited to 6 letters or numbers.

I will be there, possibly sleeping in the back of my truck.

3.5 to 4 hour trip for me. Planning on leaving Fri afternoon, get there Fri evening. Heading back Sunday evening. Believe someone from further south was wanting to convoy up with me also (and possibly spend the night here), but can't remember who anymore. I will be in the Purple People Eater, with a cap on it. Can sleep in its bed if I can park it somewhere.

I used to run 33s, now run 35s. The 35s are causing all kinds of trouble with the front axle, and don't fit nearly as well as the 33s did. I think the 33s will work best for you. I myself run Maxxis Buckshot Mudders, and have been very happy with them. Some of my friends run the MTR/Kevlars and KM2s. Having seen them in action if I had to pick between those two I'd go with the KM2s. No exprience with the Baja Claws or General Grabbers (assuming you mean the MT, not the AT).

Also, if you READ the article, E15 is not ALLOWED to be used in among other things any vehicle made before 2000 due to emissions. That includes all our Comanches.

No experience with their track bar, but I have abused a set of their adjustable upper control arms for two years without issue so far.

The AW4 is an automatic transmission. If you have a 4 speed manual behind a 2.5, it is an AX4. There is no way to mount an AX4 behind a 4 litre, and if there was it wouldn't last a day. It might be better to look for an 87-90 2.5 to replace yours. Swapping from a 2.5 to a 4.0 is a LOT of work. Radiator mounts and motor mounts have to be removed and new ones welded in. Pretty much EVERYTHING under the hood needs replaced, including wiring harness. With the amount of work involved, there is not much of a difference between swapping in an 87-90 4.0 or going newer (91 through 01 XJ) with an HO engine. Either way you will also have to replace the transmission, transmission cross member and most likely the transfer case (or swap another input shaft into it). I don't know if the driveshafts will still work or not.

IIRC the 21 slot came on 84 through 86 XJ Wagoneers. But my memory has failed me before.

Depending on the type of unit bearing, that much torque (175 foot pounds) is either required for correct bearing preload, or torque is unimportant due to the preload being internal to the unit bearing.

Even on soft rubber 35x12.50 mud tires I get13, and that's still with the stock gears. On stock tires I got 24 on the highway any day of the week.

What he ^^^^ said.

CJ stood for "Civilian Jeep" After that the factory just continued 2 letter designations to differentiate different models. For example, a Grand Cherokee could be a ZJ, WJ or WK, depending on year/body style. The 87(?) through 95 Wrangler (leaf springs) was a YJ, 97 through 06 (coil sprung) was a TJ (although some people call a TJ Unlimited an LJ for Long Jeep), and the current larger Wrangler (both 2 door and 4 door) is a JK. Not to be confused with a KJ, which is a Liberty. Only important one is a Man's Jeep, MJ. That's our Comanches.

The older (90 and before?) D35s did not use C clips. The newer ones (91 on?) do use C clips.

Dover Dirt Trails in Strasburg, OH will be open to 4wd vehicles (trucks, Jeeps, etc.) for the weekend of August 20 and 21 ONLY. Other weekends are ATV only. If it goes well he may do it again once or twice next year. Cost will be $20 per vehicle per day, no charge for passengers. On site primitive camping is $15 per night, but I don't know if that is per person or per site. There is stuff for everybody. Although challenging, the main loop can be done without damage (except possible pin striping on wider rigs) by a stock vehicle. There are some fun hills for those who want a bit of a challenge. There are also hills that would require a locker, and some major ones that will probably require two locked axles and will only be done with a trail leader and a spotter. We will probably have a rig with a winch stationed there to winch you back up if you get stuck on the bottom (extremely steep down hill, immediately followed by an extremely steep up hill. I want to try it, but may end up wedged between my front bumper and rear trailer hitch at the bottom). There is also a nice mud pit and some boulders to play on. For those who like mud and water, there is a swamp you can attempt to cross. There may actually be a cash price for the first person to successfully do so. For more information, check out http://doverdirttrails.com.