Timeless

Sounds like you need to buy a new alternator and (hopefully) be done with it.

Everything will run fine (except for the gearing with 35's or bigger will be wonky) but if you get stuck, or have to pull someone else out, you are running a high chance of breaking something with 36's or bigger. With the LP D30, you're pretty much putting in one of the weakest axles you can bolt into a jeep. Sure it will work, but when you really need everything to work, like when you're stuck and the tides coming in or you're trying to help get someone else unstuck, you'll probably break something and be SOL.

Cruiser, thanks, already have one actually. Its not much help at this time simply because the valve train makes so much noise. Oyaji, thanks for the tip. I figure I will have to pop off the valve cover soon so I will check them out. They are cheap enough to replace too. There is certainly more noise coming from the exhaust manifold side which leads me to believe there may very well be a leak, but it is likely not the only cause of the valve noise. I'm changing the oil today and will be adding a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil to clean/free things up and I'll see what happens. I recorded a few videos last night that might be helpful but I cannot get them to upload to imageshack.

Thanks for the help. Any idea how I can better diagnose the culprit of the noise? I have no problem opening up the valve train, but I don't want to do it without some specifics to start looking for.

Unfortunately, things like this happen. A lot can be swapped in the 27 some odd years these trucks have been around. 29 spline 8.25's are almost a dime a dozen. As for the transmission, if it ain't broke, don't fix it...until it breaks. As for advice on what you should be looking for, that is a pretty general question.

The noise is not piston slap. Its certainly coming from the valve train. After doing some homework, the PO put in: mopar performance springs pn P4876062 mopar retainers pn P4452032 mopar locks pn P4529218 comp cams timing chain comp cams lifters comp cams 68-232-4 cam My fear is that something was buggered up when he did the install, but my understanding is that he was an army mechanic. Thoughts?

For link you posted I'm showing the whole kit for 35 bucks. That would be both uppers and both lowers. Is this correct. Because if so that is dirt cheap for a decent part. The link is per side. One upper, one lower, + hardware. I picked mine up from there, but cannot comment on longevity of the ball joints as it was a recent purchase.

Wow....after I posted I thought "I hope I didn't leave out any important and otherwise relevant information" and then re-read my post. Fail on my part. Its a 4.0.

Google "pirate4x4." Create an account. Post same question in "general chit chat." You'll get the answers you're looking for.

Word on the jeep forums is that Moog ball joint quality has gone downhill in recent years. I don't know if it is across the board for their product line or a specific line, but it was enough to scare me away from them. Not only that, but a friend who was running moog's on an xj with 33's ruined them in a few months and he didn't even do any serious wheeling. My suggestion is to go with Spicers. These guys had some darn good prices and ship super fast: http://www.drivetrainamerica.com/p-18953-706944x-spicer-dana-30-44-ball-joint-kit-wrangler-yj-tj-cherokee-xj-zj.aspx

I have searched numerous boards for some answers and unfortunately, I think it has only created more questions. When I bought my 1987 Comanche last August the motor sounded great when it was cold. After the test drive I noticed it was a bit noisy, but nothing too alarming. Once I started to drive the truck home, I realized the engine was making a ruckus. A year later, I am finally ready to try to diagnose and rectify whatever the problem is. When cold, the engine purrs. Seriously, its extremely quiet. Once it is warm, it sounds like a diesel. It sounds like the valve train is the source of the noise and when driving, at least one of the valves has a very audible tick. When the engine see's higher than 3000rpm, the valve noise is very loud...I would liken it to a box of marbles. The previous owner supposedly replaced the lower end with a low mileage late model xj block. I do not know how to confirm or disprove this. When he supposedly swapped blocks, he used all of the RENIX components including the head, intake/exhaust manifold, etc., and replaced the intake/exhaust manifold gasket. I suppose the question is, are there any ways to better diagnose if the intake/exhaust manifold is shot or whether there is something worse going on with this engine? how about to confirm the year of the block? I have no real issue with putting a new motor in the truck, but I don't want to do it unless it is necessary. Thanks in advance.

Agreed on the wheel bearings and seals...while everything is stripped down they are good to replace. Otherwise, you're good to go.

Figure the SOA will net about 5" of lift depending on the condition of your current leaf springs. Therefore, you will need taller front springs unless you want a raked stance. Hopefully you or someone you know is a savvy welder. You don't "need" the BPE's or transfer case drop. You need shocks. If your rig is going to be on the street, I wouldn't recommend their OTK steering because it uses heim joints instead of tapered rod ends. JCR has a nice 1 ton steering kit but you will have to ream your knuckles out. The reamer is not exactly cheap. IDK what you're planning on doing, but 1 ton steering on a Dana 30 is pretty overkill. Get a beefier tie rod and call it a day.

This. Cruiser previously helped me find out that there is a flexible hose on the fuel pump (in the tank) that likes to disintegrate. If the pump is priming and you're not getting pressure at the rail, this hose is most likely the problem.

Punch and hammer works. Better yet, use a brass punch (brass drift) and hammer to prevent damaging the housing and races...especially when putting them back in.

Sketchy. Doesn't look like it has drive shafts in the front or rear.

Slider boxes replace the shackle on leaf springs. They have some advantages if you're running long shackles, but also some disadvatages for a DD.

Clean to bare metal, rough up the surface with coarse sand paper and coat with Chassis Saver. Cover that with ruberized underbody coating.

Check out this link: http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticles/body/154_0901_jeep_cherokee_xj_door_upgade/viewall.html It might help atleast with tracing wires etc. I'm going to be doing the same swap shortly, so I'm interested in any of your progress/feedback.

You're going to be better off just figuring you'll need a 3/4 ton, especially if towing any significant distance. Somewhere around 4500lbs is probably a good estimate, but make sure to remember you'll probably have the weight of spare parts, tools and friends which will all add up pretty quick.

Garvin has offered some sound advice. Radius arms are notorious for unloading on inclines. And yes, my comment about the exhaust was intended if you built the suspension...erm...less stockish. Running short arms and a D60 doesn't really make sense to me. Run a properly designed 3 link and you'll never want to look at short arms again. I guess in a nut shell, do it right and do it once.

I'm not sure if I fully understand what the problem is, but if you're considering doing the short arm three link using a single factory upper control arm mount, don't. It will be only a matter of time before you rip the entire UCA mount right off of the unibody. 3 linking with the upper on the passenger side is fine as long as the axle side and frame side mounts are solid. You'll have to be wary of clearance with your exhaust. Why don't you want long arms? Are you trying to run tons on near stock geometry?

How about Ruffstuff? http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/SU-PERCH.html

Anyone have this thing?

Agreed. Not worth your time unless you're really in a jam.