Timeless

I'm betting the flexplate is warped/cracked/fubared.

The seller probably didn't know any better either. Buyer beware. Wonder if you have a dana 35 rear...

Alot of people successfully run these. I'm planning on putting them in my MJ when I install the new engine. Do it!

I used ZJ hoses to the calipers. All disc brake parts were from a 96 ZJ. Works just fine.

Mounts parallel with the axle on the frame side will bind just the same. Its not like the binding, either on axle end or frame end, will be noticeable or terribly bad, but depending how much they bind, the bushings will be somewhat unhappy. For a rig that see's mainly road time, it doesn't matter. If your rig goes off road alot, where the axle does not remain flat and move just up and down, having the mounts perpendicular to the axle will allow them to happily pivot and otherwise last.

Why? Perpendicular to axle allows shock mount to rotate rather than bind. Also permits you to run shallower shock angles (tops of shocks closer together than bottom) assuming one is no longer using OEM mounts. It does not matter if the shock eyes are parallel or perpendicular to each other. Both perpendicular to axle is the way to go though.

The Currie ones are alright, but I have never been a fan of mounts that put the shock bolts parallel with the axle. Pick your poison of shock mounts: http://www.barnes4wd.com/Shock-Brackets-Tabs-and-Towers_c_9.html I ran these: http://www.barnes4wd.com/Behind-The-Axle-Shock-Bracket_p_290.html below the axle CL, omitted the little adjustable piece and simply put a bolt thru the hole and attached the shock. Worked just peachy.

Grab parts from a ZJ with a dana 35 if you're set on doing the conversion. DIY: http://www.links4jeeps.com/writeups/d35discconversion/

This thread will likely end up a mess. Just saying. Higher octane fuels resist ignition due to compression better than lower octane fuels. Thereby, an engine can be designed to run at a higher compression ratio when it is fed higher octane fuels. The more compression an engine runs, the more efficient it runs too. Therefore, the engine can produce more power from the fuel and/or achieve better fuel economy. To answer your first question, there is no benefit to running high octane fuel in a low compression engine, like the 4.0L.

Pics of the car you paited? All I see is a truck.

Correct on U-Bolt function. As the perch welds have to only withstand rotational forces, it can likely be done, as many other have already mentioned, with a 110v machine with multiple passes. Would I consider this the right way? Hell no. Would I beat on the truck knowing my perches were welded with only 110. Again, no.

You can probably get away with a 110v machine for leaf perches simply because, as mentioned, the U-Bolts are holding everything together. I sure as hell would not suggest welding link brackets or other attachments to an axle with a 110v machine unless you have a death wish. The most important thing is knowing what you are doing. Practice, practice, practice...

For some long portion of the trucks life, that gear oil was completely forgotten about. Clean what you can and put in fresh oil. It probably would not hurt to do it again within a few thousand miles too.

8.8 from an explorer is 58" wide (or there abouts). There are full width versions available too. I ran a rear 60 in my old rig (on 37's) and won't do it again unless I end up building a more dedicated crawler that will see little or no street and have 40's or so with dumb low gears. The D44 front and rear 60 were overkill in both strength and weight for an I6's power output and the type of driving I was doing. Is this your first build?

Probably belongs in your other thread in tech: http://comancheclub.com/topic/43030-dana-60s-swap/

You scored with that rear. Figure out a plan and regear once. Wontons are heavy like FrankTheDog mentioned. With 35's you should definitely go with 4.88's. If you're planning on running taller tires, gear accordingly.

Looks meh. Outside of the fenders and shiny paint, I don't know whats super special about it. I am interested to see what it goes for though...

More than likely that rear 60 has 30 spline axle shafts. Its not much stronger than a dana 44, but it will hold up to 35's fine. Depending on year/variation, it might have 35 spline axles. Running 35's and 60's, you're going to hit many things with the pumpkins so be sure reverse works. Going with leafs or links up front is a personal preference but links tend to outperform leafs and will require less work on the frame to install. Fab up your own brackets and links or buy a long arm kit. Check out the cherokee section on pirate4x4 for ideas.

Mark, the hydroboost is still on the MJ but it will likely be replaced with the 99's larger braking system though I have not really made a final decision. The MJ is going to be a fine vehicle by the time I get through with it and I think all you guys will be happy with how it ends up.

I got red berry pretty well stripped and finally got it out of the barn this weekend. The rear leaf's were fun to get out...not. Haven't use the recovery strap in a while... Rainbow mutt and the low riding XJ Near final resting place And now I have quite the mess to clean up As I get everything cleaned up, I'm going to try to figure out a plan of attack for the MJ. I'm not sure if I should completely strip the rig and build back from just the unibody, or do the build in stages .e.g. remove interior and engine and replace with 99 XJ parts, then remove axles and suspension and replace. Now the MJ fun can begin...

I would suggest staying away from the chinese all aluminum radiators on ebay. I don't think I have ever heard anything good about them. A quality aluminum with plastic cap radiator should last a while too. The general consensus is that the CSF is the way to go, especially if you will be wheeling, though not everyone will agree. Regardless of which radiator you choose, do add an auxiliary transmission fluid cooler.

I know the seller and told him to get pics up asap.

Put some baby powder on your truck, run some water over it, wait till it dries, trace the baby powder to the leak source.

And if you switch carriers for a lunchbox, you'll have to re-setup the gears. Same as with a full case locker.

RK 3 link can be had for around $700 shipped. Clayton and TNT are pretty stiff on pricing. IRO is $600 or so I think, but its a bit of a weird setup.