maddzz1

I think Don (hornbrod) has been trying to find a way to put the gear selector on the 91 and up cluster too. PM him, he will probally have some input as he is good with elec

I tried to put the word don't in all caps in this post and it won't let me. :dunno: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=17674

Remove the temp sensor at the back of the engine on the drivers side. DON'T do it with the truck running. The front of the truck should be down hill if you can. don't pull it all the way out, just enough for the air to come out. When coolant comes out just screw it back in.

This is the best: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8L6INXgL-e8 theres 5 episodes

not in a while pete; since i checked the b-joints. I also have two new timken hubs that will be going on with the ball joints and u-joints

Apparently she was also born with lack of oxygen :shake:

For a while now if I hit a bump at high speed (only highway) the front starts shaking but all I have to do is tap the brakes. I don't have to come to stop or even slow very much which is why I don't think it is DW. Well today it happened just going around a bend in the highway WITHOUT hitting a bump. I'm thinking it may be the ball joints (I have them to replace and also am putting new axle u-joints in). Do you think this is ball joint related or possibly a bent axle? All lug nuts are tight.

My 97+ moldings are the opposite; passenger door is harder to close and pops open harder. I always figured it was because that door wasnt opened and closed as much. :dunno:

If I remember you have to turn the cable so that you can push it down to pop it out. There is a space in the bracketso the cable can push down so the metal thing on the end can come loose.

I did it Don, on my 94XJ. It is a little tricky trying to maneuver the new one back in, not much room between the bracket and the hood. I ended up using a screwdriver to help get the end to pop back in

Hey Brent, Did the last round of shirts have the .com removed? I remember something about that, maybe it was the hats :dunno:

Need a carfax run

the door should fit but i think the striker needs to be moved on the door jamb

I like either grey or black, and the red lettering would nice on either. Is the CC logo on the back? I like that better than on the front

Sometimes the wires break. Pull that plastic thing the wires run thru that gets them from the kick panel into the door and see if any of the wires are broken

When I saw the title I thought it was gonna be a Ric Flair video. Wheeew!!! The Nature Boy, Wheeew!!

Cherokee, Thank You for the info. That is exactly what this thread was started for. :bowdown:

Obviously, it was in Sandy. :roll:

i like it, brad. I had never thought of a soft topper. I think it would look cool with a roll bar intergrated in too.

It sounds like you are getting the egr valve and CCV hoses confused? Are you asking anout the egr on the driver side near the intake or are you asking about the hoses coming from the valve cover?

Since its an 86, isnt there a chance he has an AMC20 rear end? or did they not come with the 2.5?

Have you asked if they will refund your money if you return the parts? If you are considering going that route.

congrats brent, that is great news. and still with plenty of time to prepare for your sons wedding.

thanks brent. I stayed at my fathers place in north fort myers, hes only there once in a while; and visited my brother in northport. Hopefully by next summer I will be living in north fort myers.

so, your saying that UPS failed to deliver the part, not once but twice. Then the same thing happened with a money order too? come on :shake: that is just a little far fetched. And I see why you don't want to lose money on the deal but why should the buyer lose money? you should refund their full amount and take up any losses withe UPS. After all, according to you, it was UPS that caused the problem which may create a loss for you, not the buyer.