maddzz1

Wow don your fast. The q-connects in the new tube connectors at the tranny end are the right size. They are just alot flimsier/cheaper than the original ones. the ones i bought to day at autozone are also very cheap and fit very loose. I think i will try the old ones in the new tubes and the new ones at the rad end. if any leak i will go to the dealer for oem parts. thanks for all the help. happy easter :cheers:

here's the pics of the old and new line; you can see that the old line doesnt have the tabs that the new line does. thats why i thought i didnt need to put the plastic quick connect piece in. What do you think:

Thats what I thought. That is what the ones in the connector tube at the tranny end look like too. Do you know the part #?

So Brent, in the pic that Don has the yellow circle in, I don't need to put a plastic q-connect in there; the 4 metal tabs are it? viewtopic.php?f=2&t=8701

Yeah,Don. You probally don't remember but a while back I was replacing the rad in the MJ and didnt know how to get the line off and you informed of them. I got the cheap plastic one and broke 2 of them yesterday trying to get them to disconnect the tranny line. Excuse to upgrade to the metal ones. :smart: I will find that thread it has a pic that may help w/ one of my questions.

Now I'm confused... :hmm: If you are working on the tranny end, it should be a hard steel line that plugs in to the quick connector that is screwed in to the tranny. That is the way all the ones I have seen worked anyway. Sorry, I am all over the place. In that part I was talking about the end at the radiator where the soft end of the line is. I had to go to work, so I will take some pice tomorrow for reference.

Brent, the q-connect just slipped out of the old one and there seems to be a tab in the connector to hold them in. I will let everyone know for sure.

Yes, the connector tubes that screw into the tranny. I couldnt get the quick-connects to disconnect so I got new connector tubes. After they wouldnt hold the line in I used a screwdriver to get the old ones apart so I could compare the old q-connect with the new one. It started pouring rain on me so I didnt get to compare yet, but if I remember right the new q-connect seemed longer than the original. The tab that locks the tranny line in also seemed longer; I think thats why it won't catch. I got them from rockauto (didnt think of the dealer). Taz, they seem to be rebuildable. The q-connect just slipped right out. In the end of the soft hose there are 4 metal tabs. Those arent the q-connect right? I figured they are the tabs that hold the q-connect in?

I put some new connectors(the ones on the side of the tranny) on to replace my tranny lines. The quick connect will not hold the line in; if i pull it pops right out. I think it is the correct connector with the wrong quick connect. Can i get the correct quick connect and put it in this connector? or will it leak? or should I rebuild the old connector? Also, it appears that after charging $35 for a tranny line they don't even put the quick connect in the end of it :fs1:

try putting it in any sort of cable, then let it sit a few weeks...try it once. I lost my front teeth (which are now fake) because my brake cables (2 weeks old and lubed with wd40) seized up at the skate park...not fun lol. get a box wrench (large wrench such as what you use on brake lines) and use that. . much easier. or a vice grips. unscrew, then fix once it's off. I got it off. It is a 7/8 box wrench so there wasnt much room for it. It would hit the floor board or be against that torx bolt in front of the connector or hit the rod for the NSS. Once I removed the NSS I was able to get it on up by where the harness was. Last resort was to cut the line since I was replacing them anyway. But I couldnt have the truck out of commission much longer. If i cut the line and still couldnt get it off i was screwed, if i left it on i could run a soft line up front to connect the two lines (one from upper rad hole and where i cut the main line behind the disconnect) and be able to drive it Anyone think its a good idea to wrap some tape around the disconnect to prevent dirt and gunk from getting in there and jamming them up.

Is there any reason what designated a 231 or 242 other than customer option. Like if you bought from dealer stock, were you more likely to find a 231 or 242? I live in RI and due to alot of winter road driving a 242 would be nice for the 94XJ I just picked up. I s it a direct swap if i get one from 94-96 or is the driveshaft length different?

Thanks, Pat. All of the quick-disconnects seem to have become don't-disconnects. Since the disconnect won't disconnect the only way to get a socket on would be to cut the tranny line. If I pull the NSS I will have enough room to get a wrench on it. The tranny connector and the NSS have been soaking in PB blaster since early yesterday. The new connectors I got have an o-ring on them so I don't think I will need any type of thread sealer.

Its nice to see someone so eager not only to help out his community, but willing to put the commitment in to take charge and lead the fight. You deserve a pat on the back. :clapping: :clapping: :bowdown:

Pete, any chance of moving Akulas write-up in this thread to the DIY section? viewtopic.php?f=2&t=12508

I just bought 2 of them too.

Thanks, chris. I just went and read gojeeps site. The way the FSM words it it sounds like it is just an adjusting screw and not actually a bolt that holds it on.

I need to remove the NSS to get the top tranny line connector out. I removed the nut and the star washer and it still wouldnt slide off. The FSM didnt say to remove anything else (except the plug). I didnt want to pry on it too much. Am I suppose to remove the adjuster bolt too?

I am replacing my tranny lines and the connectors that screw into the tranny with the female quick-connect on the other end. Should I use anti-seize or blue loc-tite on the threaded end that screws into the tranny

I have replaced that white piece on mine 3 times and will be replacing it again this week :fs1: The hole in the middle keeps rounding off. I was thinking of trying to take it to a machine shop and see if they can make me a metal one.

Me too, just put a little black RTV and put em back in.

Do the valve cover first. I was almost positive my RMS was gone too, but I started with the valve cover (since it was leaking too) and it turned out that my RMS wasnt leaking at all, just the oil running down the back of the engine looked like it was the RMS.

On mine the big torx bolt that lets the seat fold forward broke in half somehow :dunno: Now the drivers side leans back against the back of the cab. At first I didnt like it, but now its kinda comfortable, kinda like a recliner. But I'm still putting the buckets in.

That is just a piece of it. The rest of it is that piece still bolted to the fender above it in the pic.

I was thinking that one thread with a listing of part numbers, especially for some of the smaller more obscure parts would be a good idea. If anybody else thinks this would be a good idea then I will volunteer to organize/ categorize the info. No need to go look up parts, just whenever you have to buy something list the part # in this thread. Ill Start: Tranny Parts: Lower tranny line: Dorman# 624300 Upper tranny line: Dorman# 624301 Tranny line (from upper rad to quick disconnect): Edemmann# B61117 Tranny line connector (screws into tranny): Dorman# 800714

I tried this with the rear ds and no movement at all. Although unrelated to the above problem the front driveshaft had no up and down movement it did have some movement if I twisted it.