WahooSteeler

Well there's that.....LOL

Pretty sure that's GJeep's, he's on here......regular contributor, awesome stroker build currently happening.

First of all, absolutely blown away by this one! So many comments and memes to go with this too. Guy on the sidewalk "Hmmm, not sure that's gonna work buddy!" Guy on the sidewalk "Where are the straps that keeping from going through the back of your skull when you have to stop?" Owner "The straps said they are rated for 12,000lbs, that's why I only needed one set " Owner "Tire sidewall said max 50psi.....pfffttt, they hold 100psi just fine"

x4 on harmonic balancer. Definitely check pulley alignment first and pulley bearings, but the HB seems to be the most common source. How tight are you adjusting the belt? 4.0s need it pretty tight, do a search here on that also for guidance.

Lares #1353 .......... remanned box by Lares for @$90 after core return. Lares has a good rep from all that I've read, and agree with AZJeff that the big box store units or poorly rebuilt based on countless threads I've read on all the various Jeep forums. Often will come with a "lifetime warranty", but how often do you want to have to change one out?? If you are willing/able to spend a good bit more, a new box from Lares or Redhead is a pretty good bet. But if you're just street driving and not planning to lift and go super big on tires, a good remanned unit should be just fine IMO.

You should have a 16 or 23 gallon tank, can you confirm? Either way, yes, you can just replace the pump if it's bad. No need to replace the whole sending unit if it's in decent shape. For the 4.0, a Carter P90011 is a perfect fit and the kit comes with all the needed parts. A lot of the replacement fuel pumps are much shorter than the OE unit and you have to mod them to stay firmly in place.

Have you given a close inspection of the battery cables, particularly the negative? If you've never changed them out they have been known to have the sheathing rub through.

Ummm.........I know this is a Jeep site, and I love my MJ to death, but my first love of 4x4 pickups is late @68-72 model year Chevy's. PLEASE post some pics of that stepside I see!

Have you jumpered the fuel relay circuit and listened closely for the fuel pump? Also, check you fusible links on your starter relay. You said the battery light coming on just started happening, so possibly something is drawing hard on the battery and your fuel pump fusible link burned up. I had a similar problem and discovered the link issue, replaced, fuel pump powered up and no problems since. Link to my thread where Ohm helped me troubleshoot and source the problem. Hope it helps, if anything it may eliminate possible causes.

Anybody removed the power leads to the window motor? On my driver side the "up" wire, which IIRC is the blue wire, looks like it somehow has a cut in it. Need to remove the lead to repair or better yet rob the entire connector from my old passenger side shown in the pic. Trying to remove the leads from the old pass side with no luck. Hard to see in there to confirm if they have a lock tab, I've put a micro screwdriver down each side assuming there was a lock tab, still no luck.

Cool, hate to see a good long bed box go to waste!

And yet the bed, on the outside, looks to be good?! What would they want for the bed assuming it's not eaten up?

Hey, don't give in on negotiating your contract with the movie company. After their 3rd or 4th offer, just slide the paper back across the desk and use the always powerful and highly successful negotiating line....."don't lowball me, I know what I've got".

One on the top for intake, one on the bottom for output!

I would buy that in a hot second, but as usual, "if it were closer". Damn every long bed box for sale on the east coast is $500+ and not in the best shape.

I've got the specs for it on another computer at home so you can get replacements at a hardware store. I'll try to remember to post that tonight. Or, you can order them from tons of places online as OMIX-ADA #12038.02. Prices range from @$0.80 to $2 each.

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to the CC community, you all help keep me sane in both Jeep and non-Jeep times. CC is a nice escape!

Did some quick research, I got some info backwards I think. The 16 gal tank is long and shallow, so the FSU from a 16gal would not work in a 23gal. The 18gal is the one that is short and deep with the FSU being interchangeable with the 23.5gal tank. To my eyes, the last one in your pics looks shorter, particularly after the bend down to the pickup. Maybe measure them compared to the pic I posted.

IIRC, the 16 gal tank is actually deeper than the 18 & 23 so the FSU is longer. I seem to recall finding pics and dimensions of a 16gal tank and it is more square. The 18 &23 are the same depth, hence the same FSU's, the 23 gal is just longer. Not sure if this helps...........

You'd need to find a carrier from an earlier 44 from an MJ, XJ or ZJ. Someone on hear could probably confirm if one from a TJ will work, but I know later ones are slightly different and won't work. I plan to go to 4.10s eventually from my 3.54s and use thick cut gears. FYI, you'll have to get a new carrier for your D30, I'm pretty sure they don't make thick cut in reverse rotation.......IIRC.

MJ D44 has a carrier break at 3.73, so you'd either need the 3.92 and up carrier or I believe you can get thick cut gears in 4.88s to fit the lower carrier.

Another straight rear chrome step bumper though!

V8 logo on the grill. Landcruiser maybe?

Nobody (me) said the rear bumper is perfect...........but it APPEARS to be about as good as any you can find that's on a truck and not in an NOS box. Still worth $500.