WahooSteeler

746 injectors are hands down the best bang for the buck for overall performance gain IMO. Glad to know they likely add HP but just from the substantially increased responsiveness and smoother idle, I'd pay double or triple the $60 I paid if I knew what a difference they would make. The value ratio of improvement vs cost is off the charts.

If this is what you are looking for, plenty on ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hella-003427291-One-High-Low-Beam-7-x6-Rectangle-Conversion-Headlamp-SAE-DOT/401082141520?_trkparms=aid%3D555021%26algo%3DPL.SIMRVI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D225073%26meid%3D18a983cc3e3741ddab4974247c9c97fb%26pid%3D100752%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D14%26mehot%3Dco%26sd%3D142110449841%26itm%3D401082141520%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplRVIAMLv5WebWithPLRVIOnTopCombiner&_trksid=p2047675.c100752.m1982

I don't know how this thread ended up in this section...........anyhoo, good to know and since my problem was a blown fusible link due to o2 sensor wires shorting out, I returned it.

I was hoping for an exact measurement....... Thanks MB!

What is the proper length of the positive battery cable from post to starter?

This completed all recommended ground upgrades per Cruiser's tips. Glad I finally finished them all, feel a lot more confident about the electrical now.

Finally got around to installing my headlight relay harness I bought quite some time ago. Did it more for the safety than brighter lights, which is good considering I really didn't notice a big difference. A little more so on high beams than low beams, but was a bit surprised.

Nice little writeup on the history of Jeep Trucks.......... https://www.caranddriver.com/features/g15379412/classic-old-jeep-pickup-trucks/?utm_campaign=socialflowFBCD&src=socialflowFBCAD&utm_medium=social-media&utm_source=facebook&fbclid=IwAR0egAYEqE_xwew4jgTJbXCBdpKXKOikVZ25RUtBmSlXutC0myw5c7TEM2Q

Yes. Somehow, my o2 sensor wires pulled out of the sensor body and I assume caused a short. Ohm confirmed for me the link replaced is the one for the o2 heater and the fuel pump. I have another thread going because I thought my fuel pump had died. My son was driving it and it just died on him on a back road. It was close enough to home I was able to "tow" it with a strap myself and when I first crawled under the truck to see if I could hear the fuel pump prime, I noticed the o2 wires hanging down. I have a theory how it may have happened after a recent trip to the shop, but no way to prove it. Anyhoo, glad it's up and running and actually learned a lot in the past week troubleshooting many things and ultimately finding the burned up link.

Picked up links from Napa today, spliced in the 18ga replacement for the o2 heater and fuel pump, fired right up. I will say, if I have to do one again, I would get just plain fusible link wire and replicate the factory setup with one eyelet sharing 2 links. Reason being, the mounting post on the starter relay for all the things that need to be energized is maxed out, and adding another eyelet made it barely able to get the bolt back on to hold all of them in place. Pics of the parts from Napa (picked up a 14ga one to have on hand), the burned wire, and the 18ga replacement link spliced in. I used bullet connectors in the even I need to replace one again I don't have to cut any length out of the harness side.

I got the one with the eyelet and rubber cover from Napa, part # 784690. I went ahead and got a 14ga one to have on hand also, part # 784692. However, there is a reason the factory setup has multiple links joined at 1 eyelet. The mounting post on the relay for all the items to get power at startup is maxed out with having another individual eyelet added to the stack. If I have to replace another one in the future, I would just get the fusible link wire with no connectors and then splice it back to stock configuration by sharing another eyelet. Fyi, I split open the big rubber connector where the harness and fusible link are spliced together. As you said, that is all the rubber piece is, a very secure and weatherproof solder covering. Pic of the parts from Napa and the burned up link wire that was replaced.

I noticed that on your signature after I posted. I'm in Waynesboro, @3hrs west on I-64.

Looks nice! What part of VA are in located?

Thanks Jdog!

No worries, headed out now to pick some up from Napa, need to get it fixed today. I think I understand what I need, just wanted to be 100% sure. I'll ask the guy at Napa, they usually know more than the typical box store cashier. Still might see about you getting me some OEM ones as backup later. Thanks!

Need some edumacation on fusible links. I had one do it's job and need to replace it. First, the one that burned was one "side" of two different wires, different gauge, that are connected to the same eyelet which has a rubber connector of some sort at that point. The individual wires have another rubber connector where they connect to the harness. I know the fusible link wire is supposed to be 4 gauges higher than the harness wire, and the factory parts manual lists 14ga and 18ga fusible links. The 18ga is what burned up on mine. Replacement fusible link wire is available in many forms. Some is simply wire with an eyelet attached, some have a rubber piece at the base of the eyelet, and some have a rubber piece "in line" of the wire. Reading closer on some product descriptions, on the "in line" versions at least, it seems that rubber piece is there to hold a blade fuse? The ones with the rubber piece at the base of the eyelet, the description does not specify it is an actual fuse holder. So my questions are: which type is a proper replacement to splice in? What is the function of the rubber connector on the OE harness?

Read through about half the 25 page thread last night where you and Eaglescout helped SoCalmanche with his issues, so this morning I tested the CPS as another recent no-start issue I took readings and they were low. Anyhoo, 0v, nothing during crank. I have a Mopar one in hand anticipating it would need replacing soon. But I decided to also check the fusible link eyelets per your last suggestion last night and found this one in the pic fried. A side not as to potential cause....when I first crawled under the truck Monday evening, I noticed right away my O2 sensor wiring dangling. It appears it was ripped right out of the sensor body, so my question is, would/could that have caused the fusible link to go? All that said, how do you go about replacing/repairing the fusible link, i.e. is it hardwired at the other end to a connector in the harness? EDIT: Researched to simply splice in new links, now I just need to confirm the proper gauge. Also read a good tip to use bullet connectors so if the same link goes bad again you don't have to keep cutting out connectors on the harness side and losing wire length.

This truck has been "for sale" for well over a year with prices ranging from $5k to $20k and now a new high of $24k........clickbait SCAM written all over it.

Thanks Ohm

She spins........was hoping it didn't, would rather just have to swap out the pump than trace wires lol.

Got it.....

Sorry. 3 wires on the harness, was going to simply clamp wire with jumper cables hooked to the battery. Should the positive wire go to the purple, the orange/black, or both? And should the negative wire go to the black ground wire in the harness?

So 2 wires from positive and one from negative to the ground wire in the harness? I was going to use a jump box.

Swapped all existing relays in to the fuel pump relay block, no change in voltage even with the relay block empty. Voltage actually drops when cranking by @1v. Can I put 12v power direct to the fuel pump harness and see if it comes on?