WahooSteeler

If it's a Jeep and has a snorkel on it, it damn sure is NOT rust free!

Yeah, hate to say it shook him up pretty good, literally and figuratively. He's never experienced it before and was doing 60mph+ when it happened. Pulled over the first time for about 10 mins he said, then got back on the road and happened right away once he got up to speed. As he was pulling off the road it darted to the right and he almost hit the guard rail. He didn't want to limp it to the Jeep dealership that is actually just a few miles off the exit he takes to his rental house. We have AAA so had it towed to the dealer, I'll talk to them in the morning. Hopefully didn't cause any other damage. Couldn't tell by his pics if the track bar broke or just sheared the axle side bolt.

I had mine done by a shop. They stapled the ends on the back side but rolled and glued the fabric where it meets the top and bottom sections. The door cards are in so-so shape, one definitely shows water damage. I looked in to making new cards on my own, I found the type of heavy cardboard material used for them online. Haven't gone down that path yet.

My son goes to WVU, picked him up last week to come home for a few days and for his sister's birthday. I drove the MJ there and back on Friday, 8hrs round trip @480 miles, as a test run to possibly let him take it back to school for the rest of the semester. Ran great, no overheating issues, drove well. Sent him on his way this afternoon, he just called me 2 miles from his exit with major death wobble. Just sent me a picture and the track bar broke and/or sheared the bolt on the axle side. Anyhoo, hopefully someone on here knows of a fair and reputable shop around Morgantown.

For some reason they look much bigger in the pics. I run 31 BFGs on about the same amount of lift and they never seem to look as big in person. I'd like to go to 32s.....

Are those 32s or 33s on there? Always loved your truck, super nice!

First year production has already sold out. I don't know how many units that is, but I'm guessing a few thousand.

Maybe a worm gear hose clamp? I definitely would not put zip ties in the tank, I'm sure the gas will eat through those in no time.

If you are running stock control arms, I would bet you'll be much happier just replacing the whole piece than fighting 30+ yr old bushings stuck in there. Aftermarket arms are very inexpensive.

The key to getting a set is to make sure the seller has not just cleaned them up with new orings and filters, but has tested and flow-matched them for consistent pressure across all 6 injectors. There is a guy on either NAXJA or CherokeeForum that has been rebuilding them for years, Cruiser knows the guy I believe and can refer you to him but not sure if he is still doing them. Otherwise I would recommend ebay so you can see better feedback and a more detailed description to make sure they are flow matched. For me, Amazon doesn't give me as much confidence as ebay on things like this. Another option that will cost you a bit more but you're getting a known product with proper rebuild and flow matched is KSuspension. I've heard they are good to deal with and very fair if you have any problems also. https://www.ksuspensionfab.com/store/p8/Remanufactured%3A_4_Port_Upgraded_Fuel_Injectors_XJ%2FMJ.html#/

Probably would have been just as informative to start a new thread and get comments from people who have done this in the last couple of years. Not bashing you at all, just a suggestion. That said, Bosch 746 injectors IMO seem to be the most widely used injector upgrade on the Renix 4.0 and I have yet to read a negative comment across many forums. Affordable, readily available, properly spec'd for flow rate etc.........best upgrade I've done. Instant improvement in smoothness of idle and acceleration. I believe I gained some mpg but I have not measured it in great detail, just getting more miles per tank.

Long bed? What kind of shape was the bed in?

I'm sure the plastic is quite toxic and you could die if you smoked them.

Looks like P4529229AC is the "current" number according to Summit and some Mopar parts sites.

I still use it a lot but Craigslist has pretty much been taken over by FB Marketplace it seems........

Searchtempest.com too, for nationwide Craigslist search, although you can see Craigslist through Autotempest also.......

Following this thread for sure. I have new bushings and a new reman motor and they are super slow on low or high. However, they are very good while on intermittent even if I have it set on the shortest pause interval. I plan to add a ground very soon but it doesn't sound like that helps much, although I'll put one on anyway as that is literally the only ground I have not added per Cruiser's tips.

I've been able to do the same by using Autotempest.com, nationwide search, and then click on FB Marketplace icon the same as looking on AutoTrader etc.

13 years this month.....wow

If you are asking/looking for additional sound and heat insulation in addition to your carpet and headliner, Noico 80 mil is very competitively priced compared to Fatmat, Kilmat and Dynamat. I used Noico in my truck recently on the entire floorboard area, C pillars, roof and inside the doors, huge difference.

Update..........after driving more at night and on some very dark back roads, I will say they seem a decent bit brighter, definitely on high beams. Still happy with doing it just for the prevention of the switch melting, but happy to get some more light out of them too. Eventually I'll probably put in some Hellas with a little more juice in the bulb but for now, a great upgrade for less than $20.

AMC20 is a BIG round pumpkin, D35 is a little oblong and similar to your description, but upon another look at your picture, the jury is still out IMO. Still thinking it might be a 20. Hoping for you it is! IIRC, if the truck came with 4.10 gears in 86 it also had the 20.......but I could be wrong.

I believe I see an AMC20 for the rear axle?!

Oil is always a hotly debated topic, lots of opinions LOL. I'm no expert or engineer, I'm only going to regurgitate what is often pointed out here on CC and that is that Rotella T6 synthetic is generally considered the best for the 4.0. Some time ago a member posted a study/report from somewhere with a wiiide range of oils, everything from Walmart brand oil to Royal Purple, Red Line etc. There was a spreadsheet containing the amount of all of the additives in each of the oils and the best "blend" for the Jeep 4.0 was found in Rotella T6. I may not be correct, but IIRC there was some science and engineering behind the report and not just someone's opinion. I don't believe the study/report was done specifically to find the best oil for Jeep 4.0s, but again, it's been awhile since that was posted. T6 is also now available in 15w-40 so I would assume that may be better for you in Nevada than the more common 5w-40. And it's cheaper than Mobil 1 and other synthetics, so even better.