Eagle

Yes, but if the CPS was bad it probably wouldn't start by rolling it and dumping the clutch. Otherwise, the CPS would have been my first guess.

There was no "HD" for the manual transmission. 1989 was a mid-year change from the Peugeot BA10/5 to the AX-15. Early 89's got the Pukegoat, late 89s got the AX-15. Just have to crawl under and see which it is.

Call 877-627-1399. Get to the parts department and ask to speak with Todd. Tell him you're from Harwood's Comanche Club forum and you need an obsolete part. Bradshaw Jeep has been a dealer since when they sold Hudsons, then segued right into AMC and then Jeep. Todd is the guru when seeking older Jeep (and AMC) parts. If it exists, he can probably hook you up.

Quick test of gauge and wiring: Turn on ignition. You can start the engine, just stay clear of the fan and exhaust manifold. The engine does not have to be running, but the gauges must be energized (i.e. don't turn key to "Accessory"). Observe where needle sits. According to you, it should be on cold. Remove the wire from the top of the sender. Do NOT touch it to anything -- isolate it, or you hold it while an assistant reads the gauge. Where is the needle? Now take a probe (or a nail, or screw, or length of stiff wire) and ground the wire directly to the engine (block or head, so big hunk of clean metal). The sender resistance range is 0 - 88 ohms. With the wire removed from the sender, there is no circuit. This is equivalent to infinite resistance. The needle should peg on the hot side. When you ground the wire, the resistance should be close to zero. The needle should be all the way down to the cold side of the scale. If not ... the gauge or the wire to the gauge has a problem.

Rancho has a full-length (almost) AAL for the MJ and XJ that gives about 1-1/2" in the MJ.

All you need is a "heavy duty" or electronic flasher. If it says it'll work with a trailer, that's what you need.

Any suggestions for a spring that might yield me ~~2". Staying SUA. Rancho AAL #RS60913

Well ... except that an XJ/MJ D30 is a high pinion and a ZJ is a low pinion. Which really means that an XJ axle should work better in a ZJ than a ZJ axle ... Agreed.

Check caster angle

You can fit 31s with NO lift, if you use OEM Jeep rims. A stock 215/75 or 225/75 tire is about 29" diameter, so just going to 31s will automatically give you an inch of extra ground clearance.

Just cut it at the back of the cab, and fabricate a 'Y' and a tongue. Open the differential, gut the spider gears and ring gear, and close it up again.

Yes, the YJ Wranglers had high pinion Dana 30s in front. But ... they are leaf sprung. Lots of fabrication, no direct bolt-in.

Different bolt circle, for starters, I believe.

MAP sensor

Mystery. Just for giggles -- if you turn on just the taillights -- it's the lower brightness filament that comes on, on both sides? And withOUT the taillights on, if you operate the turns, brakes or 4-ways, it's the brighter filament that comes on? Oh ... and I'm asking you to confirm this for the truck, too, as well as on the trailer. Also, does it act funny both with and without the trailer connected to the harness?

Bad ground, or bad sockets. Replace the sockets. The chain auto parts places have a replacement socket on the HELP! pegboard that fits perfectly, although the application it's listed for is a Ford. Take an old socket with you to match it up.

REALLY bad idea, IMHO. Difficult to access. Makes the vehicle more top-heavy, which is NOT a plus when taking a lifted vehicle across a side slope traverse. Plus a 33" or larger tire is heavy enough to be a major PITA to lift up there or take down.

I don't think they were welded. I think they were nut-serts. (Expansion sleeves) The ones on my '88 just spin, which means eventually I'm going to have to find a way to get up there and grind them off.

The '86 nose would have worked. You might have needed some minor adjustments. 87 and newer would be better. Just be aware that they changed the grille in either 90 or 91 to incorporate the trim strip above the grille and headlights into the grille and headlight bezels. On the early ones that trim strip is a separate part. You can't mix the early header with the later grille, or the opposite.

Could be the fan itself. And it could be the resistor pack. Slide the control slider to any of the "ON" positions (heat, bi-level, anything but[/i] "OFF"). Turn the fan switch to the highest speed. If the fan runs on high speed but not at the lower speeds, you most likely need a resistor pack.

The standard, flat 4-wire connector is for trailers that use a combined, dual filament stop/tail light bulb. The four wires are: [*:1pywb8gb]Tail (leads to both sides) (brown) [*:1pywb8gb]Right turn/brake (green) [*:1pywb8gb]Left turn/brake (yellow) [*:1pywb8gb]Ground (white) Cherokees use a separate, amber turn signal, so to run a flat, 4-wire from a Cherokee you need a logic box. The MJ has the turn signals combined with the brake lights, so it's ready to go with a 4-wire connector. Ground the white wire from the connector anywhere you can get a good ground. Find which wire feeds the taillight filament on either side of the MJ, and tap the brown wire from the connector into that. You can tap the license light for this. Trace the wire from the right side turn signal filament, and tap the green wire into that. Trace the wire from the left side turn signal filament, and tap the yellow wire into that. From your description, I'm going to guess that you don't have a good ground, so the turns are trying to ground back through the taillight side of the circuit.

My '88 started acting like this, and now that I've read this thread I realize that it started cutting out only after a new CPS was installed. How many of you have encountered such behavior with a new CPS? I've never thought about the possibility of it being bad from the box. This was an official Jeep part that I put in, too. Same symptoms. It started when the weather got hot. It'll run for 10, 15 or maybe 20 minutes, then just ... die. It won't restart when it dies, but if I sit there for a half hour or 45 minutes, it starts right up and I can drive it home.

$75/rim seems to be a fairly common price for repairing alloy rims. Yes, it can be fixed, by TIG welding. If you know someone who can do aluminum TIG welds, you can gave them built up the missing metal and then carfully file it down to the correct profile by hand, then clearcoat it with a rattle can. Or you can just take a file and smooth down the roughness, and use it as-is.

:agree: This. Exactly.

So what would I need to change other than the parts listed above? Here you go. As when I posted this previously, this is from a draft of a book I started. This material IS copyrighted, by me, and by posting it here I do NOT grant anyone permission to reproduce it anywhere else. Please respect that. The 1990 through early '99 brakes are NOT an upgrade. They use composite rotors that are extremely prone to warpage.