Eagle

If the wire is aluminum, corrosion could very well be the problem. In addition, aluminum is subject to "creep" under pressure -- you torque dow a screw, and over time the aluminum slowly deforms until you no longer have a solid connection. When you re-wire, be sure to use Ox-Gard (corrosion inhibitor) on the wires when you stick 'em into the lugs and torque 'em down.

No need to drive into town. https://www.theupsstore.com/tools/estimate-shipping-cost

I've got a story that I think beats anything the current generation pulls. This goes back to the early 1980s, when I was married to my second wife. I was finally ready to sell my 1968 Javelin, that I had bought new with my Vietnam combat pay. It had the 343 c.i.d. V8 (which was the largest available when I ordered it -- the 390 came out later in 1968), the "go package," limited slip rear axle, several suspension tweaks (I was heavily into autocross and time trials in those days), and a recent engine rebuild. My then mother-in-law lived on a busy road in a town full of gearheads, so we parked it in her front yard with a "For Sale" sign in the window, the price, and my telephone number. Had a call from a guy who said he loved it and really REALLY wanted it. So we made an appointment for me to meet him a the MIL's place at 6:00 p.m. one evening after work. I was there at 6:00. He wasn't. He also wasn't there at 6:15, or 6:30. I had a phone number, so at around 6:45 p.m. I called. His father answered, and said he had no idea where his son was. At 7:00 there was a knock on the door. MIL answered. It was NOT the prospective buyer I had the appointment with, it was a kid who was one of my wife's students (she was a high school English teacher). He was a nice kid, very polite. He took it for a test drive, liked it, gave me a big deposit, and we arranged to finalize the paperwork the following Saturday. He left, and I went home. Around 9:30 that night I got a phone call at home from prospective buyer #1, asking about "his" car. I informed him that it wasn't "his" car, that I had waited over an hour for him and couldn't reach him, and that the car was now sold -- to someone else. The guy went totally bat $#!& crazy over the phone. He kept telling me that I had no right to sell "his" car, that we had a deal (we didn't, we were going to meet so he could test drive it), and he was going to sue me. I finally told him where to go and hung up on him. Ten years later I had another guy pull a similar routine when I was selling a full-size Cherokee with a snow plow. Yeah -- they're out there.

What the [bleep] is "minor" brain bleeding? Prayers that she recovers, quickly and completely.

Also, check your door pillar switches. After 33 years, they're probably not in very good shape.

Oh, yes! I haven't been to Wright's Farm in years.

Here's the diagram for the 1988 fuse panel. Not sure if the '91 is the same.

The factory oil pressure spec is for when the engine is at operating temperature. The spec is 13 psi minimum at idle, and 37 to 75 above 1600 RPM. As a rule, most of the 4.0L engines I've driven seem to run between 50 and 55 psi at 2,000 RPM. What weight oil do you run? Heavier oil will make higher oil pressure, especially when cold.

If you want to sell it, post in the classifieds. You'll have to spell out what you have added to it, because I can't imagine how a SporTruck is worth anywhere near what you have in it.

This is great news!

I would. It's even stronger than the Dana 44. The downside is that it's also heavier and offers less ground clearance than the Dana 44.

Not MJ-related, so moved to The Pub.

Stick with 31s.

It's called a clevis. Part number 5200 0532 Check with EagleScout526 -- they may still be available through the factory parts system.

No. And I'll almost guarantee that using SOS on the plastic chrome-like (it's NOT chrome) finish will quickly destroy it.

How much additional length do you need? If you are going to be changing the rear axle in the future, I would spend as little as possible now. If you only need an inch or so, the front yoke from a YJ rear driveshaft is supposed to be enough longer than an XJ/MJ yoke to make up that difference. That's probably cheaper than having a driveshaft custom modified.

I have on more than one occasion had hoods that were badly bent, and the only used hoods were in such bad shape that the body shops doing the work refused to even mess with them. In both instances, they straightened the bent hoods so well that, even knowing they were damaged and where, I was unable to see where they had been repaired. Virginia, you probably don't need to cut anything out or off. I can't imagine how that would make anything easier. I think it has to be easier to work with it intact. Are you familiar with stud welders? They are used in body work to allow attaching a slide puller without drilling holes in the sheet metal. Thin studs (sort of like the shanks of pop rivets) are welded onto the dented surface. Heat the surface up, attach a slide hammer, and gradually pull out the dent. https://www.harborfreight.com/stud-welder-dent-repair-kit-61433.html?_br_psugg_q=stud+welder

NGK for the win.

Yes. Not unless you consider premature rear wheel lockup to be proper operation. It's dangerous -- that's why the industry came out with proportioning valves.

Yes. How to do that has been discussed here multiple times. To eliminate the rear height sensing proportioning valve, you have to remove the second line to the rear. The one you remove is the one that comes off the front/bottom outlet on the distribution block. The line coming off the "nose" of the distribution block is then connected directly to the flex hose at the rear axle. If you do this, you also need to be aware that you will then always have 100% available braking pressure/force to the rear wheels. Especially when the bed is empty, this will greatly increase the likelihood that in hard braking or a panic stop, the rear wheels will lock up prematurely, causing a spin-out. The cure for that is to install an after-market, adjustable proportioning valve in the line to the rear brakes.

The shuttle valve does not impede flow to the front brakes, as far as I know. That would defeat the purpose. This one happens to be an XJ proportioning valve, but the front circuit outlets are the same: If it's the right front that's giving you problems, you need to check the lower/rear outlet on the distribution block.

Sounds more like he used the carbon paper as a shim for the rear main bearing itself, instead of just replacing the bearing.

Not interested in the vehicle, but sarah's kind of ... interesting.

I agree on replacing the clutch master cylinder. However, I recommend using DOT-5 silicone brake fluid. It's non-hygroscopic, so it won't attract moisture vapor and, more important, it isn't corrosive. That means if it weeps onto the fuse panel it won't destroy it.