Eagle

That's what I figured. Might be worth doing anyway. Using a stubby filter would eliminate the adapter and all those O-rings, and it would also eliminate issues of oil drain-back because the filter would be tipped slightly down (IIRC).

Has anyone tried just doing an adapter delete? My fuzzy recollection from my AMC days is that the oil filters originally mounted directly to the block. Is there enough room in the MJ/XJ engine compartment to do the filter without the adapter?

I don't know where you get that interpretation out of what I wrote. You asked about the stripe, not the truck. The truck looks great - the stripe adds nothing to it, and IMHO detracts from it. It would be more appropriate to say, "Just throw the stripe on a bonfire."

Can't you just use the speedo drive out of the BA 10/5?

Cruiser does know. Scroll down to post #3

Neither the original part nor the [incorrect] replacement part is a valve. Those are only inlet adapters -- i.e. fittings.

Keep in mind that the '87 -90 Renix 4.0L engines did not have a CCV "valve." There is no valve. The closed crankcase ventilation was supposed to be regulated by the small size of the tube off the rear of the valve cover. That rear tube is the suction side. The hose and fitting going into the front of the valve cover is supposed to be the fresh air inlet side of the air flow circuit. What happens is that the tiny suction tube gets clogged, so the crankcase can't release pressure through the correct path. The alternate is to push the oily fumes backward through the inlet -- which comes from the air cleaner box, so that's where the oil ends up collecting.

I'm taking the ones from schardein. Too good to pass up. Thanks.

Don't like it. Looks weird.

Yes, the valve is vacuum actuated.

I'd like to convert my '87 MJ to the full-time 4WD option. I have a 242 transfer case, but it came with an engine and tranny that I was given -- I didn't get the donor vehicle. So I need the shift gate -- the part that screws to the floor beneath the trim bezel. It's different than the gate for the 231. If anyone comes across an XJ in a junkyard that has (or had) a 242, please snag the shift gate for me. If you have one, please send me a PM and let me know how much you want for it. I could also use the transfer case shifter bezel with the shift diagram that includes the full-time position. Thanks.

Back in analog days (the 1960s and 1970s), AMC cars had a heater control valve that was operated by a simple choke-type cable by a lever on the dashboard. There were two versions: one had the inlet screwed into a threaded port on the head and a hose connection on the outlet; the other mounted to the firewall and had hose connections for both inlet and outlet. They were simple, and they worked. I often wonder if all the fancy control gizmos we see on modern vehicles are really better than the simple, analog controls we had when I was learning how to drive and to wrench. http://www.americanpartsdepot.net/images/130 3501H.JPG

Jeep deleted the valve on the newer model XJs because with the flow of coolant shut off, the heater core tends to get clogged with gunk. But there's no reason you can't run a valve and just remind yourself to blast the heat for a few minutes once a month or so -- or manually reverse flush the heater core once a year.

Sweet ride

Post a photo of your rear springs. If they are factory, it's virtually impossible to be missing a leaf because of the way they are made. Measure the height from the center of the axle/hubcap straight up to the bottom of the fender flare. Better yet: Having driven a Comanche with a 4-inch lift on a regular basis, I predict that you won't like driving it as a commuter with a 4-inch lift, and you'll hate it with a 6-inch lift. Mine had the lift when I bought it, and removing the lift was the single best "modification" I made to the truck.

The Aztek gets my vote as the ugliest automobile ever designed. And I've seen a lot of ugly cars, including things like the Renault Deux Cheveaux. You see an Aztek rolling down the road (maybe once every ten years!) and you have to think, "Were they all on crack when they designed that?"

True. Truss, and chromoly axle shafts. And a brake upgrade would be advisable with big tires. It can be done, but it costs money. Which comes back to the basic reality that the cost of lifting (or going big) increase exponentially.

You can use a Cherokee wiring harness. The stop and taillight portion will be different, but that's easy to fix with the wiring diagrams, which can be downloaded from the Comanche Club site. OR -- personally, I have never liked the fact that the Comanche's rear lights are set up so the brake lights use the same bulbs as the hazard flashers, and the brakes override the hazards. The Cherokee has dedicated hazard flashers that are independent of the brakes. If I were starting with a clean slate, I would use the Cherokee setup, put amber bulbs in the backup light sockets and use those for the turn and hazard signals, and wire in some low-profile LED floods as back-up lights.

Respectfully, IMHO you are approaching this backwards. As a rule, for a lot of reasons, the goal is to run as little lift as possible while getting where you need to go. The cost of lifting increases exponentially -- meaning that a 4-inch lift doesn't cost twice as much as a 2-inch lift, it costs four times as much. Also, bigger tires and more lift mean worse fuel mileage, and gas prices are going through the roof right now. The proper approach (again, IMHO) is to figure out what size tires you need to run ("need," not "Gee those 44s will look cool I gotta have 'em"), then work out the least amount of lift you'll need to run those tires. On factory Jeep rims, you can run 31x10.50-15 tires on a Comanche with NO lift. Take a look at what's included with these lift kits you are considering, read some of the build threads on this site, and figure out what's NOT included in those kits. Then start looking at how much more you're going to have to spend to make those lift kits work. And then price tires. YIKES!

I hope you mean D30 for the front. If all you have in the rear is a Dana 35, do NOT lift it and DO NOT run tires larger than 31s.

Do both. If you just have to "build" one (which for me translates into "carve up"), build the worse one and restore the better one to as close to original as possible. For the 2.8L, as eaglescout suggested, swap in a GM 3.4L (from a rear-engine car). It's the same block, so it will be a bolt-in swap for a much better engine. The only thing to watch out for is that the 2.8L is externally balanced -- it has a weight on the flywheel. The 3.4L is internally balanced -- no eccentric weight on the flywheel. If you can't use the 3.4L flywheel, take the 2.8L flywheel to an automotive machine shop and have them neutral balance it.

Plus the 3800 is hardly appropriate for a 16-year old novice driver. However, a GM 3.4L V-6 makes a nice swap into an early XJ or MJ. Pretty much bolt-in except for neutral balancing the flywheel.

Well done!

Honda Civic.

No hay otras luces traseras que puedan ser sustituidas directamente al Comanche. Algunas personas han utilizado las luces traseras del Cherokee 1997-2001, pero esta solución requiere una carrocería personalizada. ¿Sabe usted que ahora hay un reemplazo para la lente exterior de las luces traseras originales? No se trata de un conjunto completo, sino sólo de la lente roja, que debe fijarse al cuerpo original de la luz trasera.