Eagle

I like the Mac aluminum reservoir. I actually used Summit Racing surge tanks (also aluminum), but I bought those before the Mac reservoir hit the market. The Mac is more expensive, but it's a direct fit and doesn't require any adapters.

After that length of time, all rubber hoses and tubes should be replaced, gasoline should be emptied and discarded, and all electrical connections should be cleaned and checked.

There is no temp gauge sender bolt. Are you referring to the actual coolant temperature sensor? https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/crown-auto-jeep-replacmnt-coolant-temperature-sensor-53005056/11740438-P?searchTerm=Coolant+Temperature+Sensor I've also never had to remove that to get air out of the system. Any air should purge itself -- just keep adding coolant until the level doesn't do down any more.

Oh, yes.

Do you live in a place that requires emission or safety testing?

Springs, shocks, wheels ... plus a heavier-duty rear axle and bigger rear brakes.

I have an '84 or '85 XJ 2.8L hulk with a 228 or 229 transfer case out behind the garage. I'll probably pull the t-case before I scrap the body, but I have no idea what I'll do with it.

Are you saying you have one, or know of one? A BASE model 4-cylinder, manual transmission, with the 228 or 229 transfer case from the factory?

It's a base model. My guess is that it's got an NP207 transfer case. It'll give you 4WD, but it's not a particularly favorable transfer case. As I posted above, the internal oiling is inferior to the 231, and the low range isn't as low as the 231. However, it's attached to a transmission that won't fit your engine, so you would need to modify your transmission to make it work. Extremely unlikely that a 4-cylinder base model would have the 228/229 transfer case. That's a big, heavy, awkward lump of a transfer case. If that vehicle were in your town, I'd say get it, grab the axles, and part out the rest. If you're in Georgia and it's in Tennessee -- I don't think it's worth the time, effort, and gas money to drive up there and haul it back.

The transmission won't mate to a 4.0L engine, and wouldn't handle the torque if it could. The transfer case is an earlier and weaker design than the NVG 231 or NVG 242, has poorer internal oiling, and the low range is 2.60:1 rather than 2.72:1. The front axle will work. The rear axle will work, but it's almost certainly a Dana 35, so not especially desirable. However -- if it's a 5-speed, the axles should be 4.10s, which is a nice find and certainly worth the price (free).

I recall reading that, too, but I never followed up on it so I can't attest to the accuracy of the statement.

I wouldn't expend any money or effort converting a Dana 35 out of anything to put in an MJ. It'll still be a Dana 35. Keep working on getting the drums off.

Agreed. 10W30 should produce adequate pressure, absent other issues.

What brand of oil, what series, and what weight?

Factory spec for warm (operating temperature) oil pressure is 13psi minimum at idle, and 37 to 75 psi above 1600 RPM. Typically, my experience has been that ***most*** healthy 4.0L Jeep engines idle at 20 to 25 psi and run 50 to 55 psi at 2000 RPM (highway cruise). Oil pressure as low as you are seeing probably indicates bearings, and those can be replaced with the engine in the vehicle. In fact, a number of years ago I hosted a meet-n-greet, BBQ, and trail ride for the NAXJA-NAC chapter. Folks showed up at my place on Saturday, we had a huge cookout Saturday night, everyone camped in the field in front of my house Saturday night, and we did a trail ride on Sunday. One of the guys dropped his oil pan and replaced main and rod bearings while we were cooking dinner. [Edit]Forgot to ask: What brand oil filter are you running? I'm not sure why, but Fram oil filters cause low pressure problems on Jeep engines. Also, what brand, type, and weight of oil are you running?

Coil pack? I'm on the third one in my late wife's 2000 XJ.

How to measure ride height (and lift):

NGK

Back to basics: "Lift shocks" don't lift the truck. They are longer than stock, to be used in a truck that has been lifted, but the lift has to be accomplished by different springs or other mechanical modifications. You can't just buy a set of shocks and get the truck lifted (if that's what you had in mind). The only exception is Monroe Load-Levelers, which are shocks that have helper springs built into them. BUT ... Monroe doesn't list a Load-Leveler for the MJ. You can do a deep dive through the Monroe technical literature and figure out what Load-Leveler will fit, but the amount of lift you'll get will be unpredictable.

Be sure you get the correct year. 1986 thru 1990 were metric thread. 1991 and newer were SAE thread.

Hell with the tie rod end -- what's with what appears to be a 3-piece drag link held together with 1/4" U-bolts?

Dang -- it's in MY state! And I need a new boiler and a new roof on the hovel. Timing couldn't be worse. I would SOOOOOO love to have that.

I believe the Ford rims also have a smaller center hole and won't seat properly on Jeep hubs. Not certain of that, but that's what I remember.

Remove the spark plugs and run a compression test. It's very likely that at least one of two things happened -- and maybe both: 1. The head warped and blew a head gasket 2. It got hot enough that the rings initially seized in the bores when you shut it off hot. The cylinder walls may be scored, and the rings have probably lost their temper, so you're not getting good compression. Unfortunately, I suspect that the engine may be toast at this point.

Yes, that vehicle will really stand out ... in Mexico. Except that it's already been painted some other color.