Eagle

Are your photos as the parts were received? ALL the photos on their web site show an assembly that's either nicely painted black, or maybe powder coated. If they sent stuff in the white (unfinished), that's false advertising.

Ditto.

True. But there are no consumer-grade scanners that can read the Renix data -- you need an old AMC/Jeep scan tool or a professional-grade Snap-On (or equal), WITH the necessary adapter to connect into the Renix system. Even most Jeep dealers don't have the equipment to read the Renix data these days. And the renix system doesn't store fault codes, so the information isn't as useful as what you get from a modern OBD2 scan. So, I'll revise my statement: For all practical purposes, there are no OBD scanners for the Renix system.

Yes, I know. No, there is not. OBD didn't exist in 1987 -- it came along several years later.

Finding one good for up to 6" of lift that still works at stock height isn't easy. I wouldn't recommend Rusty's track bar to anyone but, before I learned the hard way, I bought one for my red '88 MJ when it had the 4" lift. With the lift, it worked fine -- except that it was a piece of junk. However, when I dropped it back down to stock height, the track bar was an interference fit with the front diff cover. I had to buy an OEM track bar before I could drive it again at stock height. FWIW

Has your speedometer/odometer been corrected for the larger tires? I swapped it, but it's not perfect still. Its near exactly 10% off (reads slower/lower then actual) so please correct me if I'm wrong. But if my odo is reporting say 160 miles and I've used 10 gal I'm getting 16mpg. Now that reading is (roughly) 10% less so I really drove aprox 176 miles. While still only burning 10 gal. So my true value is closer to 18mpg. Correct. Which is, of course, why I asked if the speedometer and odometer had been corrected.

I own two 2000 XJs that were bought new and have the original windshields in them. The rubber trim gasket measures 7/8 of an inch. I think you are measuring the black contact area on the back (inside) of the glass, not the trim gasket. That black area on the inside surface is bonded to the glass at the [glass] factory to provide a better surface for the urethane adhesive to bond to. Its width could very well be different for aftermarket glass than for OEM Jeep glass.

But the rebound clips aren't anywhere near 1-3/4" wide. And it isn't like you can just take them apart every couple or few months to replace the cushions -- a few bends and they break due to metal fatigue.

Normal.

You don't have lockers, unless they were added by a previous owner. However, what transfer case do you have? (Look over the driver's side sun visor -- does it say "Command Trac" or SelecTrac"?

Not the same thing at all, but it might work. This stuff (^^^) isn't for the rebound clips -- they run across the leaf pack. This stuff is for running the full length of the proings, between the leaves. It's much thinner than the rebound clip pads.

That ... and the shape. And the fact that the early ones are chrome and the 97+ are painted. Other than the fact they're totally different, they're exactly the same.

Not the same as the bumper on an MJ. It has to be for an '84 - '96 XJ.

Has your speedometer/odometer been corrected for the larger tires?

I'd like to wish all of you a safe Memorial Day and a safe holiday weekend. Note that I didn't include "happy." Not that I don't want you to enjoy a holiday with your friends and family, but please take at least a few minutes to reflect on what Memorial Day is -- the one day in the year that the United States has set aside specifically to remember and to honor those who gave their lives to help keep the world free of tyranny and oppression. Not veterans -- we have our own day, later in the year. Memorial Day is for those who went to war, and who didn't make it home. Peace.

^^^ What he said. If you used the CPS that was with the "new" transmission, and if that's what you bought for replacements -- it couldn't work. They are different sensors and they work on different priciples. Totally not compatible.

Should not be. Open up the harness below the fuel pump relay socket. i opened up the harness below the relay an orange wire is strip but its not touching anything is it possible something could be grounding under dash also getting ground going to the trans fuse under dash? You don't "get a ground" to anything. Ground is ground. Fuses go in power (hot) leads, not ground leads. If you "get a ground" to a fused lead, you have a short circuit that instantly blows any fuse you put in the fuse holder.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/4695-mj-to-xj-pop-valve/

Check if you are getting power to the fuel pump with the key in the RUN position. It sounds like you have be getting power with the key in START, allowing enough fuel to start the engine, then when you release the key to RUN the fuel pump is shutting down and the engine dies due to no fuel. This is common on the '88 and newer Renix models that have a ballast resistor in the fuel pump circuit -- the resistor fails, but the start circuit bypasses it. An '96 2.5L shouldn't have a fuel pump resistor, but there may be something funky about your ignition switch or wiring.

It's not a "hole," it's a threaded boss -- a blind hole. The Chrysler ECU doesn't use a knock sensor, but there's not need to plug to hole.

I used to lust after the SX/4 version. Carburetors aren't that expensive. The body appears to be solid. Go for it.

It has the factory hidden winch option.

I assume by this you mean you forced your springs out of line and installed the Cherokee axle into your Comanche as a spring-over-axle conversion, without relocating the perches. Yes, that is bad. I recommend that you not drive the truck that way. You are putting a lateral loading on the springs and the spring shackles and bushings that they were not designed or intended to handle. As PFCLeist already commented, you need to cut off the spring perches and relocate them on the axle. Was your MJ originally set up as a spring-over-axle? Why did you replace the original axle -- did it fail, or were you hoping the Cherokee axle would be a bolt-in SOA conversion?

They may have sold you the u-joints for the front drive shaft rather than for the axle shaft. You need Auto Zone part number 1-0174DL.

The easiest thing to replace in the front suspension is the shocks. There is nothing else that you should even consider working on "while [you're] under there." The shocks are easy -- everything else is work.