Eagle

I don't know how the overdrive solenoid would be linked to the torque converter. OD is a fourth gear in the transmission, it's not the torque converter lock-up (which also operates in third gear).

Before you even mess with the resistor pack -- try the blower with the switch in the high speed position. That bypasses the resistor pack. If it runs on high but not on the other speeds, then check the resistor pack. If it doesn't run on high speed, probably the brushes are worn out in the blower motor and you need a new motor.

And if the result is to get the tip of the CPS closer to the teeth on the flywheel, it will generate a stronger signal. The problem is when it results in an interference fit -- as it seems to have done here.

... There's something wrong as far as the CPS contacting the flywheel. There's a ton of clearance. Incorrect mounting bolts? Notice where he said he drilled out the top hole. I'm going to guess that he read some "expert" on the Internet advising to do this to get a stronger signal. God save us from the Internet experts ...

My '88 4.0L does the same thing. I believe it's a bad CPS that gets heat-soaked -- the problem started after I replaced the CPS. Unfortunately, I've had too many medical issues and I can't crawl underneath to try a new CPS.

If you didn't gap the rings according to factory specs, how did you decide to gap them? And why would you use anything different from what the factory specifies?

I'm inclined to think the engineers who designed the engine and wrote the official factory book probably know more about their engine than other sources, but I'm a bit old-fashioned that way. What year (in case it makes a difference)?

No, they didn't. You are thinking of the Quadradrive option, not Quadratrak. And the traction device in the front wasn't exactly a locker or a limited slip, at least as we know it. The Traclok limited slip used in the factory XJ and MJ rear axles is a clutch-type limited slip that is always engaged UNLESS the torque differential between the left and right drive wheels exceeds a threshold, at which point the clutches start slipping to allow the wheels to rotate at different speeds. This would result in very dangerous handling on snow or ice if used in the front axle. The Quadradrive traction device works exactly the opposite. It is a clutch-type device, but the default is that the clutches are NOT engaged, so steering is not affected. If one wheel starts spinning much faster than the other wheel on the same axle, then a gerotor pump in the differential uses hydraulic pressure to activate the clutches and engage the traction device. I had a '99 WJ with Quadradrive. When it worked, it worked very well and it was totally transparent to the driver. No strange handling characteristics at all. The only problem was that (like several other features of the WJ) it only worked when it felt like it. I didn't keep that Jeep very long -- I went back to an XJ for reliability. Technically I guess the Quadradrive axles could be described as limited slip, but the mode of operation was unlike any other traction device on the market. Don't confuse it with a Traclok type, which could be dangerous in a front axle.

This article by an early NAXJA member is about dropping the skid for a lift, but it's a useful reference for installing one. Just omit the tube spacers. http://www.olypen.com/craigh/skid.htm

The 8.25 swap is VERY easy, and much less expensive than an 8.8 swap. If you just need to put it in and drive, all you need to do is move the spring perches. The axle is already the correct width, so you don't need any spacers, or wheels with different backspacing. The pinion yoke is the same as for an MJ, so you don't need an adapter flange. You should be able to cut off the original spring perches and weld them back on in the correct place for the MJ installation. You can obviously use the original MJ shock mounts, since they aren't part of the axle. You can either leave the XJ shock mounts on the axle tubes, or cut them off -- your option. While you can do a disc brake conversion, it's not necessary if you just need an axle to drive on. The rear brakes in an MJ when not running loaded do even less work than the rear brakes in an XJ, so IMHO there's not much to be gained by doing the disc brake conversion. The 8.25 pinion is about 1-inch longer than the D35, so unless you're doing a lift at the same time you will also need to shorten the drive shaft by an inch. (You would also have to do this with the 8.8.)

I thought '95 ws the first year for the air bag.

The Cherokee and the front (cab) portion of the Comanche are unibody construction. A body swap is not possible.

Yes, it is.

Update: Looks even worse than I thought. When I was sent home from the hospital after the emergency intervention, they said the surgery to remove the gallbladder would be in six weeks. Had a follow-up yesterday, and now they're saying the next follow-up will be six weeks after the initial hospitalization, and the surgery might be another couple of weeks after that. They initially told me the recovery from the surgery would be a week to ten days, now they're telling me six weeks post-op. Dang I hate doctors. They lie worse than politicians.

Correct. The transfer case end is the same, but the early speedo cable connects to the speedo head with a metal retainer and a screw. The '88 thru '90 speedo cable connects to the speedo head with a white nylon pinch connector.

The tach and the speedo have long ticks at intervals of 5 and small ticks at intervals of 1. It's a Type 1 cluster, used from '84 through '86 (or maybe part way through '87). The '88 - '90 Type 2 cluster has a long tick at intervals of 5 and a short tick at intervals of 2-1/2. I much prefer the earlier style. The tach and speedo should be compatible with an '88, but the speedo cable will have to be changed. If the cluster came from a V6, the tach will work -- 6 cylinders is 6 cylinders. If it came from a 4-cylinder, the tach will register but it won't give accurate readings. And I don't think the early tach has the potentiometer to adjust between the 4-cyl and 6-cyl. You will have to replace the temperature sender and the oil pressure sender with senders for gauges. The ones for idiot lights are simple ON-OFF switches that won't work with gauges.

How do they do that? I think in my state it would be the Department of Motor Vehicles, not the State Police, but I'm curious as to how different jurisdictions handle it.

So what are you waiting for?

Either will work but I'm pretty sure the D44 cylinders are larger in diameter.

I can't find a spec for the switching temperature for the coolant idiot light in any of my tech manuals. What I did find is that the aux fan is supposed to kick on at 223 degrees, and shut off at 207 degrees. So 223 should NOT trigger a warning light, but I'd guess they don't want it to get much beyond that. So 230 or maybe 240, tops.

You hooked it up backward. The front should be the inlet -- that's what should connect to the air box. The PCV valve at the rear is the suction -- the PCV fits into the gasket in the valve cover, and the line from the PCV valve then goes to the intake manifold. A PCV valve is a one-way check valve. It can't work if you try to make the air flow the wrong way.

The factory thermostat is a 195-degree unit. Not certain, but I think the idiot light comes on at 260 degrees. (Might be 240.)

Same for my '87 shortbed. Mine's a Pioneer 4.0L 5-speed.

Out of curiosity -- you mentioned in a follow-up post that your truck is a '91. But you say it had a low-pinion front axle. What did the front axle come out of? ALL MJs had high-pinion front axles -- Jeep didn't switch to a low pinion D30 in the Cherokee until model year 2000.

I've posted this before. It's from the unfinished manuscript of a book I started to write several years ago: As when I have posted this before, the above is copyrighted and I am NOT granting permission to copy it or to reproduce it and distribute it. Feel free to use the information for yourself, but please respect my copyright.