Eagle

I disagree. A properly balanced tire is a gyroscope, and it basically CAN'T wobble. A blown shock and/or a loose ball joint may allow death wobble to be worse than if those components were perfect, but they can't cause death wobble.

Or swap the speedometers.

Some things "cause" death wobble. Some things "allow" death wobble. Balance your tires. Loose steering components do not "cause" death wobble.

He said he changed the senders.

A heavy rear bumper can help, but it also has a downside -- it's several feet behind the rear wheels. If you start to skid, all that weight is going to make it harder to pull out of the skid. You really want any additional weight right over the rear axle.

There is no "return" involved in the MJ braking system. One line is the normal line that runs through the height sensing valve, the other is an emergency circuit that bypasses the height sensing valve if the front brakes fail. If you don't have the load sensing valve hooked up, you should not be running two lines.

Without major trimming? For the lift you have in mind, 31x10.50

I wouldn't call that part a "bushing." It doesn't function as a bushing, it functions the same as a synchronizer ring in a manual transmission. My '88 Cherokee has the disconnect axle. It's currently at 287,000 miles, and I've never touched the disconnect. Mine is currently still functional but I hope to get it back on the road for winter, and my plan is to set it in the locked position and forget it.

Yes, AMC offered an overdrive at the time. As someone whose family owned and drove nothing other than AMC cars, and who hung around with the service manager from one dealership and the son of the owner of another dealership, I can honestly say that I've only seen ONE AMC car with a factory overdrive. That was my mother's 1964 Rambler station wagon. They offered it, but they didn't sell a lot of them. Well under 10% of the number of vehicles sold, and I'd guess it was actually more like less than 1%. They certainly didn't design the engine around the notion that all (or even most) customers were going to have the overdrive. The overdrive wasn't a transmission, it was a separate overdrive unit that mounted after the transmission.

According to the 2000 XJ FSM, 6:00 o'clock is the correct index. I would pull it anyway, and inspect the speedo gear for possible damage. Is the new gear the same length as the original?

The problem started when you swapped the speedo gear. Did you properly "clock" the speedo quill that goes into the transfer case? The orientation is dependent on the number of teeth on the speedo gear. Not sure, but I don't think 6:00 o'clock ids the index location.

AMC introduced the family of engines that eventually became the 4.0L all the way back in 1964. The nationwide move to reduced, 55 MPH speed limits didn't arrive until 1973 or 1974, when we had the first so-called gasoline shortage. Before and after the 55 MPH era, we routinely cruised at 70 t0 75 MPH, with the tach hovering around 3000 RPM or a bit more, and the engines lasted 200,000+ miles. Gas mileage was (and is) better below 60, of course, but that's a function of resistance when you're trying to push a brick on wheels down the road at speed. The engine RPM isn't the major factor in that. It's your money and your vehicle, but IMHO you're heading toward making a mistake.

I don't see a problem. The jeep I-6 engine dates to well before overdrive transmissions became the norm. "In the old days," AMC vehicles with standard transmssions typically were geared to run at 24 MPH per 1000 RPM in top gear -- whether that was 3rd gear for a 3-speed or 4th gear for a 4-speed. If you do the math, that works out to 2500 RPM at 60 MPH, and 3000 RMP gave you a 72 MPH cruise. Set up like that, they lasted a couple of hundred thousand miles with just routine maintenance, and delivered what was then considered excellent fuel economy. I should know -- I've owned a bunch of them over the years. IMHO 2700 RPM at 70 MPH is just about perfect. I don't see any reason whatsoever to spend a bunch of money "fixing" something that ain't broke.

A picture is worth a thousand words -- or a decimal point. :) Yeah, there's a wee bit of difference between 61 degrees and point-61 degrees. For what it's worth, the 2000 Cherokee FSM lists the alignment specs in degrees. Preferred is +.25 degrees, allowable range is 0 to .45 degrees, and the right-to-left difference is .05 degrees. So your .61 is indeed out of spec, and the left-to-right difference is also out of spec. That said, others have raised a good point -- with the lift, your axle is off center. They can set the toe-in, but ti's likely to still pull to one side. I would respectfully suggest using a tape measure to set your toe-in for now, and hold off on the professional alignment until you get an adjustable track bar so you can have the axle centered.

Without looking at the pages you cited -- in general, negative always ultimately goes to ground, and the wires are almost always black or black with a tracer. Positive wires are colored, or colored with tracer. To find out where they come from, you may need to jump from one page to another to see what's on the other side of a connector.

Gotta be something like that. Time to pull the head and look inside. If you can get 3/4 of a turn, it's not seized. There's mechanical interference and you just have to keep digging until you find out where it is.

Well, if it's worth it to you, that's what counts. While they're answering questions, though, ask them what they mean by "total toe from its current 61-degrees to within spec," Toe-in for an '87 MJ isn't even measured in degrees, although the newer machines may have conversion tables. The toe-in was specified in degrees for the 2000 XJ, though. But ... toe-in is supposed to be zero to 1/16th or 1/8th of an inch. I'd have to look up what that equates to in degrees, but it certainly isn't 61 degrees, or anywhere near 61 degrees. I don't think there's enough adjustment range on the MJ tie rod to achieve anything close to 61 degrees of toe-in.

I don't think any MJs came with the T-4. The T-4 was an alternate factory standard tranny in 1984 XJ 2.5Ls when the Cherokee was a brand new vehicle and AMC didn't have the supply lines fully ramped up. I don't think you'll find a T-4 in anything newer than 1985.

Camber is not adjustable, so all they're going to do is pop in a shim or three and check the toe-in. $155 seems high to me, but I haven't paid for an alignment in 30 years. You don't really need a machine to do the MJ, although it does make it easier.

Solution (from a friend who runs the M1911.org forum):

Don't guess. The knuckles and the hubs have slightly different dimensions/offsets. You can't mix components or you get an interference fit. You need to verify what year EVERY component is from, to be certain they're all compatible. If you didn't use new or rebuilt calipers, though, the problem may be as simple as a frozen caliper. Also check the caliper sliders to be sure the calipers can move freely.

You don't. The owner of the images has to buy a $388 per year subscription from Photobucket. There are patches to get around the problem. What browser are you ussing?

When you swapped the axle, did you keep ALL the brake parts from the "new" axle, or did you use anything from the old axle? From the manuscript for my unfinished book (this is copyrighted, and I am NOT granting anyone permission to copy it or to distribute it):

That's what happens if you don't bleed it for 25+ years.