FxRacing282

so your going to get some exhaust hanger going across each end and one going along the tank the long way?

looks like bird poop on the center console :eek:

id check with who gives you a sticker. in New Hampshire it is illegial to put a gas tank in the bed unless you already have one under the bed and its a secondary or something like that

Yeah -- at LEAST 15 or 20 minutes. You were joking, right? WD-40 as a long-term rust preventive? Get serious. WD-40 is nothing but kerosene with a bit of paraffin mixed into it. :rotf: good point. wheel bearing grease? thatd do the trick

I'm probabally missing something here... why not just get a new set of gears and the stuff to install it and then bring it to a place that does axles and have them put em in?

nope. get a mj tank with a sender in it. from all ive read about people doing this on here. its not worth it. someone will prrobabally have something they can sell you used though.

well the sway bar would be out of its designed range of motion for sitting still. you really don't need a sway bar in the back. a bed dosent way too much and dor does the rear end dip down like the front. but then again its not a bad idea. i would custom build one. maybe take one off the front of an old chevy like 87 and older. they are very heavy duty and would definatly drop the other side like nothin

does your NP208 happen to be a drivers side for the front shaft? because all the 208's ive seen are passenger side

sounds like you have a A/F problem. check to make sure you have the TPS hooked up properly, the MAP sensor hooked up properly and the O2 sensor wired up and hooked up properly. black smoke means this. too much gas OR too little O2. they go hand in hand. you could try swapping throttle bodys. but id check connections and double check and tripple check and have your mechanic friends with some brains, (not the dumb ones) take a look.

lol. thats funny. the crank wouldnt blow up. but then it wouldnt be a nightmare right? it would definatly idle really hard but 6 grand would be killer

yeah that brand name thing is all crap. dot 3 or 5 is what i would run. but never mix the two.dot3 is thinnest so it will be "easier" to push the pedal in. dot5 won't soak up water like dot3 & 4. hose clamp the resi to the master. bleed from the slave. unless.... i guess you could reverse bleed it... anyone ever tried this?

you probably didn't fry your TPS. The IAC motor has its own hole that allows air to run through it when the throttle plate is closed. (ilde air controller) it permits only a certain amount of air to run through it. I'm pretty sure that when a TPS goes bad if you put it to the floor it will have very poor to no engine acceleration at all. in theory it would run very very lean, the O2 sensor would tell the engine more gas so it would take some time to get to engine speed. take the IAC out, clean the tip on it. WITHOUT anything abrasive. clean the hole with a mini toothbrush like thing. you know what a chimney cleaner is? like that but smaller and plastic. put it back on. how are you sure that you have no vacuum leaks?

possible vacume leak could be on the brake booster. spray starting fluid around the "conections" for vacume lines and when themotor runs a little better or worse then there is the problem

acos is all i would do. maybe beefier shocks

i believe in new hamoshire if you have an OBD-II controlled emissions system and you put a motor in that was born before 96 then you don't have to apply to the OBD-II laws. not sure about anywhere else

well, thanks for the detailed response. :cheers:

a lot fo the guys around here just look around on the web or go to the dealer to get new mounts. you may be able to find a welder who will make them but if you give him the mounts and tell him where you want them its gonna be a little cheaper on that bill. I'm not to familiar with mass, but if you take 495N to 125N and then RT4 east in nottingham there is a welding shop that i have heard good things about. axle shafts i would not go to the dealer. i work at a garage and also go to a vocational garage for school and dealer stuff is big money. you can get same or better (or less) quality from places that are going to specialize in these axles. I'm sure someone on here who has done it before can help you out. there are a couple guys on here in mass with big mj's. so just check your phone book for welding and give the people a call and get to know them and decide if they are someone you want to risk your life with.

a lot fo the guys around here just look around on the web or go to the dealer to get new mounts. you may be able to find a welder who will make them but if you give him the mounts and tell him where you want them its gonna be a little cheaper on that bill. I'm not to familiar with mass, but if you take 495N to 125N and then RT4 east in nottingham there is a welding shop that i have heard good things about. axle shafts i would not go to the dealer. i work at a garage and also go to a vocational garage for school and dealer stuff is big money. you can get same or better (or less) quality from places that are going to specialize in these axles. I'm sure someone on here who has done it before can help you out. there are a couple guys on here in mass with big mj's. so just check your phone book for welding and give the people a call and get to know them and decide if they are someone you want to risk your life with.

Exactly. When you replace the clutch parts, use silicone brake fluid. It's pricey, but the system doesn't hold much and the silicone isn't nearly as destructive if it gets loose. the silicon brake fluid DOT5, also does not hold water and therefor eliminating 99% or more of rust on the internals of the brake lines and master and slave

Agreed. And eliminate the rear height-sensing proportioning valve while you're doing it. Getting rid of that means about three things less to fail. I'm learning about these brake proportioning valves in class. and other than the amount of things that may or may not go wrong. i am curious why people are always complaing about them? i know how much fun brake lines are and all. but if your going to do something then why not do it all and do it the right way? not saying that taking it off is bad as it does make the system more simple. I'm just curious why yall always say take em off.

i live here in new england, which is part of the "rust belt" of America . and those don't look that out of shape for a 14 year old truck exposed to NE. as for the mounts go. if you are going through the time to rid the metal of its natural process of deteriation (rust). cut em all off, put new ones on it. bring it to a trusted welder and give him a 6pack and a jelly roll of cash. the stub shafts as i call them. which is what i call the axle shaft that is between the wheel and u joint looks fairly rough. and the ears look kinda gnarly. i have no idea of your budget on this but its probabally not a bad idea to just get new axle shafts. but if its a off road rig then who cares. but its well worth the $255+ shipping. heck i just paid $200 for a chevy 10 bolt 8.5 front axle for my truck.

yeah a few flathead screwdrivers . start around the corners to pop them out. do the left side first rather than doing the lower side it will slide out much easier

could be the brake pads creaking. in the middle of the caliper you can check wear through a hole.

push on the bottom of the egr when its running. if it moves its good. and 2X on the throttle body clean. the IAC has its own "port" and it gets clogged with carbon buildup and so you have to clean it. if you use too much of anything to clean the IAC port pull plugs and crank. don't let it drain in the crank. we use break away and a toothbrush at work.

thats how i was taught from an ASE certified (all 8 categories) instructor/shop teacher. pull the t-stat to be sure you get em all out. while your going through the hassle go get a nice t stat. they are only a few bucks and a good thing for the long run.