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I am so excited to see build is going well! You are going to have some serious torque. Out of curiosity what displacement is this engine? Is it a cast iron block?

Oh nice! I’m about due for new CC apparel.

The next time you place an order, you may see more color options available. Pete asked about the zip hoodie with both the front and back design, so we used it for our guinea pig. We were able to add a few additional colors, and there don't seem to be any negative side effects with the listing. So as time permits, I'll start going through all the CC apparel in the US market and see if I can give the membership a few more options. (Some of them are sure to make you stand out!) I don't think we've sold a single item on any of the international Amazon sites, so I probably won't bother trying to make any updates there.

Honestly I'm just as happy with my cheap $30 chineseum bluetooth ear buds as I was with the Raycons I bought. Can't stand the touch controls, I'd much rather have a physical button. Nothing quite like popping them out for a quick chat with someone and putting them back in to discover holding them in your hand turned the volume waaaaay up. Can't say I've ever used the microphone though.

That's the future goal. Probably not this year unfortunately.

I’d second the Klipsch if you don’t have an iPhone. Sound quality is relatively poor on every set of wireless earbuds I’ve ever heard. Far too much compression and digital equalization for my tastes. However, earbuds aren’t really about true sound quality, they are a convenience piece. So find what best fits your ears nice and snug without any pain. Something with long battery life and music controls built into the them would be great.

All the links above are for the same product. The tj boot works well. My trans cover isn’t standard but here is how it looks on mine. I used some black rtv for additional sealing along with stainless metal roofing screws that come with the captured sealing washers.

Got to shift with buttons until my sequential shifter arrives 21857A90-D544-44B6-A668-3D82706E268C.mp4

I would definitely be interested in a set if you begin selling them. My AC is not working and need to remove the heater box to fix a door that does not open.

Where did you find the plastic clips? I am hoping to work on the jeep Sunday evening - I'll remove the outside washer first and hopefully that will provide enough room to get the metal clip in. But if not - it sounds like the plastic clip is a backup plan.

Notice the oscilloscope readings below. Blue line is “cam”, orange pulses are crank. This is on an HO though. I’ve always referred to “sync generators” as cam sensors since the cam directly drives this sensor. This allows for sequential vs un-timed batch firing.

WOW, those look horrible. Yeah, just grab them from TW. You may also need a longer center pin.

Oh ok. Thanks. I will try the injector thing tomorrow.

They don't have a cam sensor That deal inside the dizzy is a sync generator used by the ECU to fire the injectors sequentially. You can unplug it and drive your Renix Jeep and not feel the difference at all.

Pardon my ignorance, I didn't know the RENIX 4.0l had a cam sensor. Where/how would I test that if it turns out to be relevant?

I used a TJ one. I had to drill new mounting holes. https://www.amazon.com/One-New-Shift-Boot-52078970AC/dp/B01BX3GGBO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.uMP4Plx4eFsYCnepFqKhNm_-zbZh9jTsXup97R9DDZaF8SQO-PqD1CBt-WG1nAl15lSLggX47zRNTGhSX3ZW3V0FOppmI1cBx-oEW0mcCIrLzUiePrb0M_q3zOdy-3xq5mfl6KidBC7iGTIzmMR6-HInbUqvESPdLu7Gx1cwtcfE3Xv22eXtHiQ0pORCNtVJ3xpfpGLkQuJ4J4OlbFI4ng._CiYQX7kCJkABLzR-2lVuQvsZC6dDYW9x5ZCmG0byrg&dib_tag=se&keywords=52078970AC&qid=1714103417&sr=8-1

Just as a quick note: I harvested all the connectors from my stock 90 dash, chasis and engine harness. I have them all bagged and will take pictures of them all in detail at some point and add information regarding each one along with the source hopefully.

I just bought this for mine, it seals quite nicely on the trans tunnel. https://www.ebay.com/itm/362801854054?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=PkvmElRHQVK&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=52xfll3ythu&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY To get it off, I just pulled the shift boot up past the bulge since it was already tore up. To get it on I think mine didn't go past the bulged section.

This one works Quadratec link the original is no longer made. You have to remove the shifter at the “bulge” section you can use a pickle fork to pry it up.

I saw it, thank you!

Like many of us, my high mileage Comanche has a very saggy driver door. This repair method uses JB-weld to fill the hinge holes that are worn out and redrill them to the original 1/4" diameter instead of drilling out larger and using a larger bolt. My hinges had the center section hole worn out, initially I figured the role pins were worn but they weren't. That said the roll pins were completely rusted in place. First step was to remove the door, make sure to remove the door card, speaker and wires. Then door detent device. The 3 bolts on each hinge are T40 torx, and are extremely tight since they are deformed thread and loctited in place. I chose to spray the inside of the threads with PB blaster prior to removal. Due to limited space, a 1/4" drive T40 bit and a 1/4" ratcheting box end wrench were needed. With the door removed my door had two spacers between the door and the hinge. The first a body shim, the second a thick steel formed plate that cups around the hinge. As stated my roll pins were rusted in place, no reasonable amount of hammering with a punch would move them. To get around this, I got a Dremel with a cutoff wheel in between joints on each end of the hinge. I originally used the standard Dremel cutoff fiber reinforced wheels with the little screw on mandrel. Apparently those are fragile when the disc gets pinched and I broke two screws. A friend recommended the much more robust quick change cutoff arrangement made by Dremel. This did take some patience, do the bottom gap first then left the hinge and do the top gap. My goal was to abraded away as little of the load bearing surface of the hinge as possible. The stub pieces of roll pin on the C part of the hinge, I had to push out with an arbor press. Next I used brake clean and Q-tips to make sure the hinge pin holes were super clean. Once cleaned, I mixed up some 6 minute JB Weld and used a tooth pick to spread it around the bore and on the top and bottom faces where the Dremel had abraded the hinge. After the glue is cured, use a file on the JB Weld to make a flat surface for the hinge to sit on, I did top and bottom. The goal was to make the hinge fit snuggly so there was no up it down sliding play. After filling, I drilled out the holes first with a small drill bit, 3/16" or so, be careful the glue really grabs and pulls the bit. Then very carefully one drill size right below 1/"4 and a final pass at 1/4". I decided to use 1/4" bolts instead of the replacement roll pins as they were far easier to install. Those bolts were slightly tight in the glue, even though they measured 0.247" in diameter. I finished the hole with an oiled 1/4" ream spun in carefully by finger. Assembled with a copious amount of grease and painted. The bolts were roughly a 3" bolt with just the end inch threaded and the rest solid shank. Door alignment was a fun and challenging process, my tips are have a friend to help move the door up and down, and also note that the door striker hex is 18mm. Even though the hinges were now tight, the door was still slightly saggy, so I removed the body shim from the upper hinge, this allowed for excellent alignment.

I am looking for the inner shifter boot for my AX15 - this Does anyone have a part number for this or where to look for one? Nothing online looks like what I need? My next question will be following up on how to get in on?

As far as I can remember it's been doing since I got the new fuel pump. The new injectors did make it run better, but that's because the ones they replaced were $50 ebay specials.

Got the shims I ordered in today. They are junk and won't be getting installed on my truck. I should have just ordered from Tom wood's but I wanted to save a few dollars. I ordered them from Iron Rock Off-road. Here are some pics of what I received. As you can see they aren't the same angle, the same height, and they aren't flat. I emailed them with the attached pictures and am waiting to here back.