89 MJ Posted December 18, 2020 Share Posted December 18, 2020 54 minutes ago, rylee144 said: So the original u bolt mount from the dana 35 worked with the 8.8 u bolts? I was thinking they'd be different. We might have needed to ream out the holes a little. I don’t remember 100%. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rylee144 Posted December 18, 2020 Author Share Posted December 18, 2020 Sounds like it could work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rylee144 Posted December 18, 2020 Author Share Posted December 18, 2020 More help please I cannot get the last bolt in on the drivers side lower control arm. The axle shifted back somehow and I can't get it back to centered. I have a strap on it but can't get it pulled forward. Ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rylee144 Posted December 18, 2020 Author Share Posted December 18, 2020 Nevermind found a solution. Bottle jack from the frame to the axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fiatslug87 Posted December 18, 2020 Share Posted December 18, 2020 Ingenuity Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted December 18, 2020 Share Posted December 18, 2020 I felt like the smartest guy in the world when I discovered that little trick doing control arm bushings on my truck a few years ago Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rylee144 Posted December 18, 2020 Author Share Posted December 18, 2020 I stole the idea from a cherokee website. Works great tho. I struggled my way through that and still have alot to do with the front end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rylee144 Posted February 8, 2021 Author Share Posted February 8, 2021 Sometimes I wonder how this truck ran so good. I started removing the transmission today. I pulled the plugs that ran to the tranny and one of the connectors is caked in crud and a wire is barely hanging on, not sure what its application is. The exhaust bolts look like they will be fun to remove. The first two pics came off with the little amount of effort like they were just balanced on there haha. The third photo represents the connector the first couple photos ran to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rylee144 Posted February 8, 2021 Author Share Posted February 8, 2021 Second to last photo, does the exhaust pipe separate here? I removed the nuts. Of the 4 bolts two are ran each way. Does the flange just pry apart? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rylee144 Posted February 8, 2021 Author Share Posted February 8, 2021 Nm I am just going to pull it all off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fiatslug87 Posted February 8, 2021 Share Posted February 8, 2021 Yes, it pulls apart, there's a gasket in between. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rylee144 Posted February 9, 2021 Author Share Posted February 9, 2021 Thanks. I pulled the whole system. Having a bear of a time getting the top bolts off that hold the transmission on. Not alot of room Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdog Posted February 9, 2021 Share Posted February 9, 2021 don't forget they are probably torx if they haven't been changed out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted February 9, 2021 Share Posted February 9, 2021 31 minutes ago, rylee144 said: Thanks. I pulled the whole system. Having a bear of a time getting the top bolts off that hold the transmission on. Not a lot of room my suggestion is to replace the torx bolts with grade 8 studs. that was they can work as a guide upon re-installation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fiatslug87 Posted February 9, 2021 Share Posted February 9, 2021 If you haven't already, remove the cross member and let the trans tilt down a little to give you better access. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rylee144 Posted February 9, 2021 Author Share Posted February 9, 2021 Letting it hang isnt bad for stuff? I'll look into the studs and how those work and what I'll need. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted February 9, 2021 Share Posted February 9, 2021 1 hour ago, rylee144 said: Letting it hang isnt bad for stuff? I'll look into the studs and how those work and what I'll need. Thanks! Not "hang" -- "tilt." Support the tailshaft or tranny or transfer case body with a scissor jack or small hydraulic jack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdog Posted February 9, 2021 Share Posted February 9, 2021 Don't forget to disconnect the cps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rylee144 Posted February 11, 2021 Author Share Posted February 11, 2021 now that the 2wd 5 speed is out id like to replace the clutch. when ordering a new one do i get one for the year of my motor, 1988 or the new 4wd trans, ax15? I'm guessing choice 2. is more info needed? this it? https://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/clutch-set/duralast-clutch-set-nu1916-4/42853_0_0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted February 11, 2021 Share Posted February 11, 2021 are they different part numbers? I used my 88 clutch and pressure plate with my 00 AX-15. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdog Posted February 11, 2021 Share Posted February 11, 2021 when i swapped my ax in i got one for the year that the trans came out of. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted February 11, 2021 Share Posted February 11, 2021 When I went from a BA10, with an internal slave cyl., to an AX15, with an external slave cyl., I first kept the same clutch disk (CD) and pressure plate (PP). It shifted fine, but not smooth. I research on RockAuto the parts numbers. The CD part number stayed the same throughout the XJ/MJ production. The PP part number changed when the AX15 switched from internal to external slaves. That was 93 model year. I would suggest getting a PP based on if you have an internal or external slave. For me, both worked; the later year's part worked better. Of course, you will need the correct throughout bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rylee144 Posted February 23, 2021 Author Share Posted February 23, 2021 Still waiting for the rear main seal to arrive. I wanted to mate the transmission to the transfer case or should I do it once the trans is installed? Also, I'm told the trans is from a wrangler so the t-case is going to be clocked different. Anyone happen to have a photo of where I need to make extra room on the tunnel for fitment? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted February 23, 2021 Share Posted February 23, 2021 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CGCWO Posted February 23, 2021 Share Posted February 23, 2021 On 10/10/2020 at 12:22 PM, OldSch88L said: Also, simple but important tip I've learned the hard way. Don't wait until you're screwed before using PB Blaster and/or heat. Save yourself the headache and soak it in PB Blaster before attempting anything, and when ready to take it appart, heat up the nut before wrenching on it. I've been so many times in a world of hurt that as soon as I see a bolt/nut that looks remotely rusty, I do this now and save a lot of time. Especially on my Jeep, which I'm considering naming Murphy, because like Murphy's Law, everything that can go wrong, will go wrong PB is a life saver. I plan out my work on the truck and soak any bolt or nut I plan to remove at least twice before moving on. On suspension and under carriage stuff I start shooting them a week or so before trying to take them apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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