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New fuel sender


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So I got my new sending unit from MTS Company today. Got my old pump out in a hurry. Then the comparisons started. It is a almost perfect. The only sight difference is the length of the fuel gauge sender arm. It does read resistance correct for a Renix. It fit awesome. The fuel gauge is only slightly lower that my OEM sender. The pump is super quiet.

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An awesome small company in Iowa! How would of thought they would make a complete sending unit?

IMG_20190909_105627403.jpg.21e01f1f003877badc80babcde8b31c1.jpgJPSU-6P is the part number. That is complete with fuel pump. Leave the P off for just the sender.

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$160.45 shipped with tax. Just the sender is $89.99

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Sender with pump, sock, seal, & lock ring.

The lock ring didn't fit on my Spectra tank. I reused the old one. I'm guessing it would fit on a stock tank.

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Empty resistance reading .9 OHM's on a scale of 200

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Full resistance 88.5 OHM's

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New and old. My pressure line tube is almost ready to fall off.

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Connector end.

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I like how they ran the ground through the connector. It's not on the outside of the sender. This is awesome for us rust belt guys.

 

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6 minutes ago, gogmorgo said:

When you were talking to them, did they give any indication of timeline on maybe producing an HO version?

Totally awesome someone out there is willing to do this. 

Not really. I'm guessing they would need an example if the outlets are different. If the only thing needed was the correct sweeping fuel sender I would guess they could make those. I can call the again if someone had an HO version they could let them model after. Jeremy was awesome to talk to. When we thought the resistance was backwards he said it would take about 6 weeks to make it correct. But they just had it listed wrong. It is Renix values.

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Since you have established communication with them, maybe give them some feedback on the float arm length compared to stock. The 18 & 23.5 gallon tanks are the same height but the 23.5gal is longer. The 16 gallon tank has different dimensions. Since a lot of us deal with erractic fuel gauges anyway, it doesn't have to be perfect LOL and they may not want to invest any more R&D in it if it is a functioning replacement, but worth sharing with them IMO. Even though I have a recently refurbed unit from TriStarr, I will be ordering one for long-term backup. :L:

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20 minutes ago, JMO413 said:

Not really. I'm guessing they would need an example if the outlets are different. If the only thing needed was the correct sweeping fuel sender I would guess they could make those. I can call the again if someone had an HO version they could let them model after. Jeremy was awesome to talk to. When we thought the resistance was backwards he said it would take about 6 weeks to make it correct. But they just had it listed wrong. It is Renix values.

If no one else closer has one I could probably pull one of mine and send it down. Once the snow starts flying again the build progress will essentially stop on it and it'll just be sitting. 

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5 minutes ago, DirtyComanche said:

Was the lock ring just a little thick to get it started?  Sometimes you have to gently massage the lips of the tank to get them to engage easily.  Also putting a little vaseline or oil on the oring helps to make it compress easier and get the ring to go in smoothly.

It was too wide to fit down in the groove. The one I reused was narrower. I used Vaseline in the seal and the old one went back on nicely.

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That's good news that it seems to be correctly made. The gas gauge (especially the discrepancy in float arm length) does somewhat concern me though. I'm one of those people that expects an accurate gas gauge, especially on a new fuel sender. Adding 5 gallons bringing you from 7/16 to almost full doesn't compute. You should be a little bit under 3/4 of a tank. Were both of these readings taken on flat ground? Almost makes me wonder if they got the potentiometer sweep correct. Does anyone know off the top of their head whether the factory Renix fuel sender has a linear resistance range or not?

 

Can you post back next time you completely fill the tank until the pump shuts off with what the gas gauge said before you filled it and how much it took to fill?

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I plan on running it to empty then filling up from there. Both measurements were in my driveway which is mostly flat.

7 hours ago, WahooSteeler said:

Since you have established communication with them, maybe give them some feedback on the float arm length compared to stock. The 18 & 23.5 gallon tanks are the same height but the 23.5gal is longer. The 16 gallon tank has different dimensions. Since a lot of us deal with erractic fuel gauges anyway, it doesn't have to be perfect LOL and they may not want to invest any more R&D in it if it is a functioning replacement, but worth sharing with them IMO. Even though I have a recently refurbed unit from TriStarr, I will be ordering one for long-term backup. :L:

I did call them and update them about the fuel arm. It really doesn't bother me if it's a little inaccurate. Empty will always be empty. My original was kinda finicky anyway. Full to half tank seemed just over 1/3 of a tank and the bottom half seemed like the other 2/3rds.

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Just ordered a sending unit assembly with pump.  I spoke to Jeremy at MTS Company, who's been there 10-years.  He said that it is almost comical that Comanche guys are calling in so excited.

 

I ordered part JPSU-6P for my 1989 LWB 23.5 gallon tank, 4.0 L6 4X4.  

 

Some other items that Jeremy brought up about these units:  They essentially reverse-engineered them.  They use US Motorworks 3204 as the pump on these units and have used this company for years. 

 

He said they'd introduced and sold these units only since last Month.

 

I'm kind of giddy about this, as my present unit looks pretty bad and would leak like a sieve if i didn't smear that Marine epoxy all over it.

 

On 9/9/2019 at 1:44 PM, JMO413 said:

Got my old pump out in a hurry.

 

Were you able to remove the old one and replace it without dropping the fuel tank?  

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On 9/9/2019 at 5:12 PM, Minuit said:

That's good news that it seems to be correctly made. The gas gauge (especially the discrepancy in float arm length) does somewhat concern me though. I'm one of those people that expects an accurate gas gauge, especially on a new fuel sender. Adding 5 gallons bringing you from 7/16 to almost full doesn't compute. You should be a little bit under 3/4 of a tank. Were both of these readings taken on flat ground? Almost makes me wonder if they got the potentiometer sweep correct. Does anyone know off the top of their head whether the factory Renix fuel sender has a linear resistance range or not?

 

Can you post back next time you completely fill the tank until the pump shuts off with what the gas gauge said before you filled it and how much it took to fill?

 

+1,

 

Would be great if they could resolve the inaccuracy issue.  Having a properly functioning sample to reverse engineer would go a long way.  

 

I don't have any extras laying around.

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6 hours ago, saveevryjp1998 said:

Any news back on H.O.? 

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Is there a way you can get some close ups of the potentimeter? I'm wondering if a proper length float arm could be better made. To me the new potentimeter style on there looks similar to an h.o. possibly which would make it extremely easy to modify compared to a factory renix type.

I have not received a call back. I will try again in Monday. I don't have any close ups of the potentimeter sorry. 

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7 hours ago, coolwind57 said:

Just ordered a sending unit assembly with pump.  I spoke to Jeremy at MTS Company, who's been there 10-years.  He said that it is almost comical that Comanche guys are calling in so excited.

 

I ordered part JPSU-6P for my 1989 LWB 23.5 gallon tank, 4.0 L6 4X4.  

 

Some other items that Jeremy brought up about these units:  They essentially reverse-engineered them.  They use US Motorworks 3204 as the pump on these units and have used this company for years. 

Were you able to remove the old one and replace it without dropping the fuel tank?  

Jeremy is an awesome guy! They use the US Motorworks pump on their Cherokee unit and have had good luck with it. I removed my driveshaft to install the pump but that was it. I think you could do it with the shaft in but it's way easier with it out of the way.

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On September 13, 2019 at 9:16 AM, coolwind57 said:

Were you able to remove the old one and replace it without dropping the fuel tank?  

I've done it at the side of the road. As long as you're around 1/3 tank or less you'll be fine, no need to drop it. I didn't pull the driveshaft but I can see how it might improve access. 

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6 hours ago, gogmorgo said:

I've done it at the side of the road. As long as you're around 1/3 tank or less you'll be fine, no need to drop it. I didn't pull the driveshaft but I can see how it might improve access. 

This. Be ready for some serious fumes if you pull the sender with gas still in the tank. The last time I pulled the sender in my '91 I had roughly 1/4 tank and I had to give it a while to air out under the truck before I could breathe.

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On 9/14/2019 at 9:42 PM, Minuit said:

This. Be ready for some serious fumes if you pull the sender with gas still in the tank. The last time I pulled the sender in my '91 I had roughly 1/4 tank and I had to give it a while to air out under the truck before I could breathe.

I suppose it would not be a bad idea to do it outside, maybe even using a floor dryer blower while I'm under there.  

 

Thanks.

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