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Renix Engine Monitor scan tool


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Just an FYI for anyone interested in the Renix Engine Monitors, Nick is about to release a new version.  Looks like lots of new features, especially for automatic trans Jeeps.  Check out his youtube channel and facebook for more info.  NickinTime  

 

For those who have already purchased one, he will rebate a portion of the original purchase price with the return of the old models.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Cruiser, Nick's tool (REM) does seem to work.  Yesterday, I plugged in the MT2500 and noted the readings on it.  I then reconnected the REM tool and noted the readings on it.  Good news: I got the same readings.

 

On a bad note: My O2 sensor is reading a constant 4.98v and is in constant open loop, both MT2500 and REM  :mad:

Just got mine yesterday and mine also goes to 4.98V and open loop at idle, it fluctuates within the 2 volt range during cruising from what I've been able to see. It wills lowly begin climbing to 4.98V at a red light if I'm idling long enough :hmm:

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Cruiser, Nick's tool (REM) does seem to work.  Yesterday, I plugged in the MT2500 and noted the readings on it.  I then reconnected the REM tool and noted the readings on it.  Good news: I got the same readings.

 

On a bad note: My O2 sensor is reading a constant 4.98v and is in constant open loop, both MT2500 and REM  :mad:

Just got mine yesterday and mine also goes to 4.98V and open loop at idle, it fluctuates within the 2 volt range during cruising from what I've been able to see. It wills lowly begin climbing to 4.98V at a red light if I'm idling long enough :hmm:

 

Probably bad O2 sensor or heater relay. Use NTK only.

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I checked the big orange wire for voltage on the harness side of the o2 with key on engine off and got 0 volts . I then shut the ignition switch off ( keys removed ) and did an ohm test ( red DMM lead on orange terminal of harness and black to ground) and got about 27 ohms, I then started wiggling the harness back  towards the o2 relay and when I got to the passenger side of the firewall on the cowl the ohms reading went up to about 30-35 ohms  and would change the more I wiggled it!!!. I'm going to go through the harness and see what the heck is going on.

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I checked the big orange wire for voltage on the harness side of the o2 with key on engine off and got 0 volts . I then shut the ignition switch off ( keys removed ) and did an ohm test ( red DMM lead on orange terminal of harness and black to ground) and got about 27 ohms, I then started wiggling the harness back  towards the o2 relay and when I got to the passenger side of the firewall on the cowl the ohms reading went up to about 30-35 ohms  and would change the more I wiggled it!!!. I'm going to go through the harness and see what the heck is going on.

Ever done this?

 

http://cruiser54.com/?p=35

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I sure have,as well as the ground refresh ( which made a nice noticeable difference ). BTW I highly recommend using air gun cleaning brushes for connectors https://www.walmart.com/ip/5-Pcs-Airbrush-Spray-Gun-Tip-Tattoo-Machine-Tube-Cleaning-Brush-Kit-Set/110592332?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=2396&adid=22222222227051729285&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=151513093122&wl4=pla-328099138517&wl5=9031218&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=113148173&wl11=online&wl12=110592332&wl13=&veh=sem. These things are cheap and you can really get into the connectors to clean them out. I've thought about getting a replacement harness from the junk yard and cleaning/ repairing it as much as I can since I've found some pretty bad repairs from the previous owner as well as him not routing the wires correctly and letting them rest on the exhaust manifold.

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I sure have,as well as the ground refresh ( which made a nice noticeable difference ). BTW I highly recommend using air gun cleaning brushes for connectors https://www.walmart.com/ip/5-Pcs-Airbrush-Spray-Gun-Tip-Tattoo-Machine-Tube-Cleaning-Brush-Kit-Set/110592332?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=2396&adid=22222222227051729285&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=151513093122&wl4=pla-328099138517&wl5=9031218&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=113148173&wl11=online&wl12=110592332&wl13=&veh=sem. These things are cheap and you can really get into the connectors to clean them out. I've thought about getting a replacement harness from the junk yard and cleaning/ repairing it as much as I can since I've found some pretty bad repairs from the previous owner as well as him not routing the wires correctly and letting them rest on the exhaust manifold.

And the wires that get melted on the exhaust manifold include oxygen sensor...

 

You can unplug the O2, CTS, and knock sensors, fish the harness up by the power steering pump.

Then remove the split loom and see what ya got.

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Guess I jumped the gun and skipped a VERY important test,,,, my O2 heater was not working. I went to NAPA and grabbed a Bosch ( Made in USA) and it stays in closed loop at idle and I can see my O2 voltage fluctuating. Funny thing is I tested the voltage to the O2 while the engine was running at idle and I got battery voltage on the orange (cleaned the relay connections) and 4.97 from the ECM, my FSM shows you should have voltage at those connections with the key on engine off?. I completely screwed up on my diagnosis and should have checked the heater circuit first

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You also fixed the fuel pump ballast resistor by-pass circuit. A condition that happens during heavy loads. Full battery voltage to the fuel pump.

I bypassed the ballast a few years ago. I've been running an airtex pump ( I know I know ) and so far so good. I had a Bosch 69302 before and it went out on me within a year and a half but I blame myself for always running the tank below a quarter.

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Well I guess I can make an account here since I have a Comanche now. Glad everyone seems to be enjoying my REM's! Big66440 Don't forget that the o2 heater circuit is only active while I think the fuel pump is active. So you will only see voltage for 3 seconds with key on engine off. The REM has a o2 heater voltage reading "vHT" which should read the heater relay output voltage making diagnostics easier. Usually a completly dead o2 will read around 4.98v but exhaust leaks can also cause unexpected readings. A good o2 should have a nice swing from like 0.5v to 4.5v.

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Well I guess I can make an account here since I have a Comanche now. Glad everyone seems to be enjoying my REM's! Big66440 Don't forget that the o2 heater circuit is only active while I think the fuel pump is active. So you will only see voltage for 3 seconds with key on engine off. The REM has a o2 heater voltage reading "vHT" which should read the heater relay output voltage making diagnostics easier. Usually a completly dead o2 will read around 4.98v but exhaust leaks can also cause unexpected readings. A good o2 should have a nice swing from like 0.5v to 4.5v.

Welcome! I love seeing people take an interest in building diagnostic tools for older vehicles. :D

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Well I guess I can make an account here since I have a Comanche now. Glad everyone seems to be enjoying my REM's! Big66440 Don't forget that the o2 heater circuit is only active while I think the fuel pump is active. So you will only see voltage for 3 seconds with key on engine off. The REM has a o2 heater voltage reading "vHT" which should read the heater relay output voltage making diagnostics easier. Usually a completly dead o2 will read around 4.98v but exhaust leaks can also cause unexpected readings. A good o2 should have a nice swing from like 0.5v to 4.5v.

Man, I can't wait for the next release, I missed it this time around as I was away at work.

 

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

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Well I guess I can make an account here since I have a Comanche now. Glad everyone seems to be enjoying my REM's! Big66440 Don't forget that the o2 heater circuit is only active while I think the fuel pump is active. So you will only see voltage for 3 seconds with key on engine off. The REM has a o2 heater voltage reading "vHT" which should read the heater relay output voltage making diagnostics easier. Usually a completly dead o2 will read around 4.98v but exhaust leaks can also cause unexpected readings. A good o2 should have a nice swing from like 0.5v to 4.5v.

Welcome to the forum :thumbsup: I love the monitor, thank you.

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I sure have,as well as the ground refresh ( which made a nice noticeable difference ). BTW I highly recommend using air gun cleaning brushes for connectors https://www.walmart.com/ip/5-Pcs-Airbrush-Spray-Gun-Tip-Tattoo-Machine-Tube-Cleaning-Brush-Kit-Set/110592332?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=2396&adid=22222222227051729285&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=151513093122&wl4=pla-328099138517&wl5=9031218&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=113148173&wl11=online&wl12=110592332&wl13=&veh=sem. These things are cheap and you can really get into the connectors to clean them out. I've thought about getting a replacement harness from the junk yard and cleaning/ repairing it as much as I can since I've found some pretty bad repairs from the previous owner as well as him not routing the wires correctly and letting them rest on the exhaust manifold.

And the wires that get melted on the exhaust manifold include oxygen sensor...

 

You can unplug the O2, CTS, and knock sensors, fish the harness up by the power steering pump.

Then remove the split loom and see what ya got.

 

I soldered in some good clean 12g wire for all the sensors for that section that had made contact with the exhaust, according to the monitor the ECM is getting a good signal from the ECT, O2 and knock sensor.

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Hello Nick, I checked Voltage to pin 15 and I'm getting 5V with the key on and can't get a reading for the transmission on my monitor it still shows it's in 2nd gear all the time 0 RPM. I was wondering if there was a way to do a " hard reset" on the monitor. My O2 reading has been at 4.98 Volts and I've checked my O2 sensor circuit ( solid 12V+ to heater element, 5V reference and  0-1 ohms of resistance to ground), tried 2 known working O2's and switched ECM's back and forth many times with no luck. I started a thread on the forum looking for advise with some really helpful advise on my issue but still no luck. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you.

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