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About NickInTimeFilms

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    New Jersey

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  1. I use a QIDI Tech 1; dual extruder, heated bed, and fully enclosed. I even built a custom vent system to suck the fumes out through a window vent. The big key for warpage is high bed temps. If I get lifting, I'll bump the bed up 10c. The longer the print, the more likely to warp too. I need to experiment with a thicker initial layer to see if it will help take out some of my plates unevenness around the corners for my batch printing. Dual color requires the bed to be dialed in near perfect.
  2. Wow, this is incredible work man, I dig it! REM finally getting some aftermarket support, that's sick in my book. Depending on how kinked the wire would get, may be worth adding a cable exit on the top rear for folks that don't want to cut up the console. And good on you for mentioning the limitations of PLA. I print in ABS and still hear about the occasional warped case so there's still more to improve on. Maybe one of these days I'll play with a reinforced filament or something more exotic that can take the heat. Or just get them injection molded and call
  3. As per request, I have been summoned So, seems you guys stumbled onto the Renix MPFI manual and found the KAM page so that's good. The biggest things I've noticed it saving are the LTFT so it can adjust the fuel map quicker in closed loop, as well as TPS closed position as most users complain of a high idle if they adjust the TPS and don't reset the ECU. I would like to find out if that sensor key cycle info is accessible in the data stream, but hopes are low. Something I DID find though are some Key-On Self Test bytes which indicate if tests have been run as well as the outcome. So f
  4. Phil Andrews made a simple program that sent commands to a vt100 style terminal program to make a cool little readout on his computer. His initial work is what actually got me started in the first place.
  5. Hmmm, I like the way you think. I know that a serial RS232 circuit has been discussed on some russian forums before but I haven't dabbled into that yet. I use the Arduinos' built in serial chip to send info through a usb com port and it reads in just fine. As for the fuel sender, that should be theoretically possible. I actually tapped into the Oil Pressure sender and mapped out the values to read that in digitally. I just used the voltage division already done by the gauge and read that into an analog pin through a voltage divider. Funny thing though, the voltage actually changes based of
  6. REM Sale #3 should hopefully be ready in late April, just using some free time to play with a few different ideas before the next run. I announce sale times on my facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/nickintimefilms/and sell through Ebay and Etsy. I've got DIY kits up for people that can solder too: https://www.etsy.com/listing/508624660/renix-engine-monitor-plus-v3-jeep-scan
  7. Well, let's just run through it all real quick. Simplest thing first, and this one has gotten a few users, make sure the REM is set to Automatic Transmission under Options > Vehicle. If this is set to Manual then the TCU search code is skipped and that's for any screen. Next, the TCU uses pin D2-15 for TX and pin D2-7 for ground return. With key on, engine off I get 0.5v with Pos lead to D2-15 and Neg to D2-7 or 10.5v with Pos lead to D2-15 and Neg to D2-4 which is ignition positive. If your multimeter has a continuity tester with built in beeper then measure with Pos lead to D2-15
  8. Whenever I have some free time and can figure out the circuitry needed. If it worked the same way as the 4.0L then it would have been done a long time ago. It's proven very difficult to crack at it works differently then any other comunication system I've seen so far. It appears there are 2 data lines but none of them are clocks so I can't figure out the high and low requirements yet. I'm hoping one day I get it
  9. Glad you figured it out, I had a sneaking suspicion the new ECU was giving you issues. I just figure I'd add a little knowledge in for later diagnostic of future users that may browse the forums. For more indepth diagnosis of the closed loop process, keep an eye on the short term fuel trim reading. This is the adaptive offset from the base fuel curve and is directly affected by the o2 sensor when In closed loop. 128 is base, lower reading mean less fuel then base and higher readings mean adding more fuel then base. When the o2 is non-responsive you can watch the short term reading either
  10. Well I guess I can make an account here since I have a Comanche now. Glad everyone seems to be enjoying my REM's! Big66440 Don't forget that the o2 heater circuit is only active while I think the fuel pump is active. So you will only see voltage for 3 seconds with key on engine off. The REM has a o2 heater voltage reading "vHT" which should read the heater relay output voltage making diagnostics easier. Usually a completly dead o2 will read around 4.98v but exhaust leaks can also cause unexpected readings. A good o2 should have a nice swing from like 0.5v to 4.5v.
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