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My Comanche was stolen


Burke
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I've been debating putting switches in like you say, but at the same time I don't think I'd want someone breaking in and damaging things attempting to get it started, I'd rather they just took it and hope they didn't wreck it too bad.

I guess that's where we differ. I'd much rather still have the truck sitting where I parked it with a busted up steering column, and smashed glass. Even if it got burned down where it sat, I'd much rather it refused to give some lowlife a lift across town before he decided it's ashy fate.

 

On a somewhat related note, I've always been a fan of castration becoming a mandatory part of prison sentances...

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A good suggestion I've read is to wire a cutoff switch to the ballast resistor. That way, "off" would make the truck run for a few seconds and then stall and "on" would be the normal behavior. My next choice would be a GPS tracking device. Without hacking up the wiring harness too much those are the best things I can think of right now.

 

My only security device right now is having absolutely no desirable items in view. I'm gambling on potential @$$holes wanting something out of my truck (the radio, tools, etc), not the whole thing. Nobody's going to break into a truck to steal a tape deck, right? And if you want the ZZ Top tape in there that much I'll just give it to you.

 

I'd much rather have someone break stuff and it stay where it was than have them drive off, get bored and burn it down. I didn't spend 4 years and who knows how much money making my truck the way I like it just to have some Richard Head torch it.

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Sorry bro. Looking at the way that guy left your truck turns my stomach. Hind site is 20/20. Let this be a lesson to not only you but the rest of us as well. In some countries they chop your hand off for stealing...of course their probably not stealing Comanche's there. Best of luck.

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A good suggestion I've read is to wire a cutoff switch to the ballast resistor. That way, "off" would make the truck run for a few seconds and then stall and "on" would be the normal behavior. My next choice would be a GPS tracking device. Without hacking up the wiring harness too much those are the best things I can think of right now.

 

My only security device right now is having absolutely no desirable items in view. I'm gambling on potential @$$holes wanting something out of my truck (the radio, tools, etc), not the whole thing. Nobody's going to break into a truck to steal a tape deck, right? And if you want the ZZ Top tape in there that much I'll just give it to you.

 

I'd much rather have someone break stuff and it stay where it was than have them drive off, get bored and burn it down.

 

I am thinking of doing the same. 

 

If you put a switch on the "ballast resistor", it should allow the truck to start, then it'll stall out. It should start as the system applies full voltage at start, then after engine start, switches power through the Ballast, right? But with the ballast switched off, the truck will stumble, then stall out. Confusing the would be theft. Hopefully making her (or him) move on the the next..

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Just wire the fog light factory type switch inline to the ballast. Fog light switch on means good to go, fog lights off means bad day for crook. Would a crook try a factory dash switch or look for something hidden? Hmmmm

Interesting idea. Easy to do also.

 

I have a master switch have for the battery buried in my XJ. You would just need a piece of 8ga wire to bypass it though, providing you realize what's going on. But it's dead in the water otherwise. Also really handy is the NSS is so poorly adjusted that you need to wiggle the shifter while starting it, however I intend to fix that.

 

TMR customs sells a battery disconnect that the handle comes off when turned to the off position, acting as a key. I would have bought that style over what I have, but I was not aware of it at the time.

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Or if you have the switch and don't care if it works, the Power/Comfort switch. For an ironic touch, make it so that "Comfort" is the setting that actually makes it run. (disclaimer: I don't know how the switch actually works so I have no idea if it is actually possible or not)

 

Damn, I've been ninja'd twice in a row in the same thread. Maybe I'll have to use the quote button after all?

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Damn, I've been ninja'd twice in a row in the same thread. Maybe I'll have to use the quote button after all?

 

Thats funny, Same happened to me as I was typing. I had to refresh. 3 posts happened in just a few min.  (I'm multitasking, not just a slow typer)

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Or if you have the switch and don't care if it works, the Power/Comfort switch. For an ironic touch, make it so that "Comfort" is the setting that actually makes it run. (disclaimer: I don't know how the switch actually works so I have no idea if it is actually possible or not)

I have a spare of those. I can check. Alternatively you could install the XJ rear wiper switch, it would work and I doubt anyone would go 'Hang on, there's no rear wiper...'

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If I were going to do this, I'd use an unused dash switch (rear defrost is available on mine) inline on the ECU ground output (pin 12) to the ASD relay. When starting, the ECU waits for three seconds after cranking to receive the cam & crank shaft signal. If it receives this signal, it latches the ASD relay and allows the fuel pump relay to latch and keep the engine running. With the dash switch open preventing the ASD relay from latching, the engine will die in three seconds. Foolproof - for the HOs only of course.

 

FWIW, this is how the crappy factory security system prevented the engine from starting if a fault was triggered.

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Or if you have the switch and don't care if it works, the Power/Comfort switch. For an ironic touch, make it so that "Comfort" is the setting that actually makes it run. (disclaimer: I don't know how the switch actually works so I have no idea if it is actually possible or not)

I have a spare of those. I can check. Alternatively you could install the XJ rear wiper switch, it would work and I doubt anyone would go 'Hang on, there's no rear wiper...'

Ringing them out, you could use either switch. I'm not sure if they're up to the task, as they're both a little chintzy. However you can swap the switches in their holders, so perhaps the fog light switch would be the best bet, but you could put it in the wiper or power/comfort holder if you want.

 

I do not have a fog light switch, at least not that I could find.

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That's pretty standard fare on FSAE cars if not other racing applications. It means you can't accidentally bump power on. It's not much of a key.

 

Another thought on switches, if you had an aux-in cord or something sitting in the centre console or somewhere else that looks like a place you'd set an iPod etc., then you could have a female end with two of the ends looped back together to form the "switch". Plugged in would be on, unplugged is off, take the female part with you and no one would suspect it's a switch. And if there was enough juice going to it, fair chance they'd fry anything they do try plugging into it.

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Keep in mind that no matter what steps you take, someone can still steal your vehicle.  I had a friend with a car that had a removable steering wheel, battery disconnect, and an ingition interrupt.  Still got stolen, and stolen by somebody he knew (who obviously knew about the last two features). 

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Keep in mind that no matter what steps you take, someone can still steal your vehicle.  I had a friend with a car that had a removable steering wheel, battery disconnect, and an ingition interrupt.  Still got stolen, and stolen by somebody he knew (who obviously knew about the last two features). 

 

Absolutely.  But you're removing the small timers and joyriders with a few basic steps, which makes up most of the theft of a vehicle like a Comanche.

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Thanks for all the feedback, sorry to not reply earlier however it's been hectic both dealing with this and work over the past week.

 

To those suggesting a rebuild, not feasible for several reasons, if you look at the roof in the 1st picture it has been severely compromised, the back of the cab in the 4th picture shows warp-age from the heat too. Combine those with the questionable condition of the drive line, even a great priced donor doesn't make this an appealing task.

 

I have found a VERY good replacement & will be completing a deal later today on a 90 Eliminator, although more than I would like to have spent, it's still much less than the seller wanted. Quite honestly it is in pretty remarkable condition when you get beyond the damage to the front end, which he also has all the replacement parts for. I'll try to post up pictures later this week. It will be kept in the garage & receive anti-theft devices up the ying-yang.

 

As for the dick-head who stole the Pioneer, I still don't know if he has been caught, however when I last spoke to the investigating officer - he did indicate they do have a suspect in mind.

 

The 89 is still in the police impound yard, however I am planning to try & sell it in it's complete current state, even though the replacement truck has a D35, I'm just not interested in the 89 coming back to my yard. I won't get into how much of a cluster it has been dealing with the employees at the impound lot, instead I'll cut them slack since I'm sure 99% of the people they deal treat them like $#1t.

 

 

BTW -  where the heck were all those anti-theft ideas before my truck was taken.... :thumbsup:

 

 

 

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Good news that you have a replacement already lined up.

 

Where do you live at? If nothing more than to keep eyes on what happens with your old MJ so that others might be able to get some parts from it once it leave the impound lot.

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Have it media blasted, and then bake it in a powdercoat oven at 400-425 degrees for a few hours to temper the metal. 

 

Beyond Junkin it, this is best idea to save it.... maybe way out there, but given time and I'm sure somebody would do it.

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