Spray paint or Automotive paint?

[87 COMANCHE PIONEER]

Hi everyone, I am currently in the process of tying all my loose ends up on my build and have no clue what to paint with. I cannot decide between spray paint or automotive paint. I can do both, that's not the issue, my issue lies where spray paint would be much simpler going on and to fix scratches and such. On the other hand automotive paint doesn't scratch as easy. I am lost anyone have any goes or woes on either?

[Rockfrog]

Street Queen = auto paint

 

Bush/work Truck = spray paint

 

Just the way I see it.

[Megadan]

Honestly, what the end result looks like really depends on how much prep work you put into the body before you paint it.  Yes, obviously spray paint will never look like a true automotive paint job, but you can get darn close.  I rattle canned mine with an outdoor "taupe" (light tan/brown) and it ended up looking decent.  You can still tell it was a spray can job, but only when you get up close.  That, and I went with a semi-gloss instead of a true flat. 

If you want your truck to look good and shiny, then go automotive paint.  However, spend a lot of time on prep and body work before you do.  Otherwise, you might as well just rattle can paint it and call it a day.

[jimoshel]

I have seen some fantastic paint jobs done with rattle cans. True, they will never match auto paint but with proper prep it's close enough.

[johnj92131]

Using a spry can to paint a truck is just plain expensive.  Not to mention how it looks (most of the time).

 

Any paint job, no matter what you use is no better than the preparation that goes into it.  So If you are going to put the time and work into good preparation, why screw it up with cheap, crappy painting tools like a spray can?

 

If you do your own good job of preparing the truck, Maco or any other production shop can shoot the truck for you at quite modest cost.

When it was time to paint my truck, I made sure the prep job was well and properly done and paid Maco about $795 to shoot the truck with their upgraded paint.  That included them taking off the bed and taking off the shell/topper to be painted also.  Still looks decent and shines 4+ years later.

[Megadan]

I did my whole truck with the Rustoleum touch for about $110 in cans. (2-3 coats).  I did however spend $24 on a HVLP primer gun from the parts store, $40 for a can of primer, and probably $200 in sand paper.  I did no other body work, which would have added to the cost.  In my case I wanted to remove the previous spray paint and fix the surface rust the PO created by sanding to bare metal (don't ask...).  I'm happy with the results for now until I get around to actually painting it.

[Incommando]

Street Queen = auto paint

 

Bush/work Truck = spray paint

 

Just the way I see it.

This. 

[Megadan]

I was happy with the results of my rattle can job.  This is the passenger side of the bed after 3 coats.

[Minuit]

Street Queen = auto paint

 

Bush/work Truck = spray paint

 

Just the way I see it.

This.

[ComancheKid45]

If your not going with automotive style quality than I'll reccommend brush and rolling on paint over spray cans anyday. Looks just as rugged and is 3 times as durable.

[johnj92131]

I did my whole truck with the Rustoleum touch for about $110 in cans. (2-3 coats).  I did however spend $24 on a HVLP primer gun from the parts store, $40 for a can of primer, and probably $200 in sand paper.  I did no other body work, which would have added to the cost.  In my case I wanted to remove the previous spray paint and fix the surface rust the PO created by sanding to bare metal (don't ask...).  I'm happy with the results for now until I get around to actually painting it.

 

Sounds like you did a lot of work with the sand paper and a whole lot of time in the prep.  So you purchased a spray gun to use with your air compressor.  Purchased a 1 gallon can of HVLP primer and applied it with the spray gun.  Then finished the job with Rustoleum spray cans? 

Really do have to ask how much would a couple of gallons of automotive paint cost compared to the $110 spent on Rustoleum spray cans?  Especially since you purchased the spray gun.

[HOrnbrod]

 

I prefer oil-based barn paint applied with a whisk broom.  

[Incommando]

Hornbrod you really should be using a boar-bristle brush to apply that particular paint.

[HOrnbrod]

Naw. The whisk broom gives the finish nice character lines.

[Rockfrog]

I get plenty of character lines driving the back roads out here, good ole BC pinstripes.

Last time I painted a vehicle, it cost me $60 ... Add an extra can for touch ups and call it done.

If I never hit the woods I pony up for decent paint, but one good scratch/dent and even the most expensive paint won't hold up any better. My Cherokee still has factory paint, and scratches from the brush going past the clear coat.

[mnkyboy]

If you have the equipment and ability then rattle can should be out of the question,you could shoot equipment paint for far less money and have far better results then you would with a spray can.

[Incommando]

I get plenty of character lines driving the back roads out here, good ole BC pinstripes.

Last time I painted a vehicle, it cost me $60 ... Add an extra can for touch ups and call it done.

If I never hit the woods I pony up for decent paint, but one good scratch/dent and even the most expensive paint won't hold up any better. My Cherokee still has factory paint, and scratches from the brush going past the clear coat.

Where I wheel it is invariably very tight trails with tree trunks and branches squeezing in, as well. Such pin stripes are the norm. Although this may not be important in more wide open areas I value the ability to easily repaint and cover-up the "oopses." Flat or satin colors, especially black, are good for that. Spray cans do give the ability to more easily mask the repair by using the same product. I just put a black bed on mine and I will be repainting the truck now. I am thinking of going with Rustoleum through a gun and then hoping the rattle can version matches it for the inevitable touch-ups. A gallon of Rustoleum is $30 here so I can probably do it all for $100 or so. Tractor/Implement paint is about the same price and also comes by the gallon and by the can so I may go that route.

[MJam86]

I spent $400 for sanding, prep, palm sander and monstaliner. No need to worry about pin strips, i have full skids, sliders, and quarter panel protection so i only have to do touch ups every 5 years for UV protection if i want unless i flop it.

[Incommando]

How did you apply your monster liner?

[Megadan]

 

I did my whole truck with the Rustoleum touch for about $110 in cans. (2-3 coats).  I did however spend $24 on a HVLP primer gun from the parts store, $40 for a can of primer, and probably $200 in sand paper.  I did no other body work, which would have added to the cost.  In my case I wanted to remove the previous spray paint and fix the surface rust the PO created by sanding to bare metal (don't ask...).  I'm happy with the results for now until I get around to actually painting it.

 

Sounds like you did a lot of work with the sand paper and a whole lot of time in the prep.  So you purchased a spray gun to use with your air compressor.  Purchased a 1 gallon can of HVLP primer and applied it with the spray gun.  Then finished the job with Rustoleum spray cans? 

Really do have to ask how much would a couple of gallons of automotive paint cost compared to the $110 spent on Rustoleum spray cans?  Especially since you purchased the spray gun.

 

Well, lets see.  My compressor (29 Gal 2Hp - 6SCFM@40psi) can't keep up for long with an HVLP gun to apply paint.  It struggled with the primer, but at least the primer was being sanded back.  I also don't own a good HVLP Spray gun, so the cost difference?  Compressor (used) - $500.  Dryer (used) - $400-700. Good HVLP Gun - $200-well over 500.  Quality automotive paint (at least 1 gal) $200+. Then let's throw in clear, thinners, sealer, etc...

 

So yea, $110 in cans is a bargain.  At least compared to doing it properly, which is the only way I would bother doing it when/if I ever get around to it.

 

Also, I took the time to primer because I had to in many spots, it was down to bare metal.  I used a filler primer (Self etch on bare metal first) so I could sand it back and try to smooth out the difference in thickness between painted and non painted.  I didn't seal it, nor did I bother to do any of the much needed body work (dents here and there).

 

For what it's worth, people think my truck actually looks good.  It doesn't look like an obvious rattle can job, which is what I was going for.

[johnj92131]

 

 

I did my whole truck with the Rustoleum touch for about $110 in cans. (2-3 coats).  I did however spend $24 on a HVLP primer gun from the parts store, $40 for a can of primer, and probably $200 in sand paper.  I did no other body work, which would have added to the cost.  In my case I wanted to remove the previous spray paint and fix the surface rust the PO created by sanding to bare metal (don't ask...).  I'm happy with the results for now until I get around to actually painting it.

 

Sounds like you did a lot of work with the sand paper and a whole lot of time in the prep.  So you purchased a spray gun to use with your air compressor.  Purchased a 1 gallon can of HVLP primer and applied it with the spray gun.  Then finished the job with Rustoleum spray cans? 

Really do have to ask how much would a couple of gallons of automotive paint cost compared to the $110 spent on Rustoleum spray cans?  Especially since you purchased the spray gun.

 

Well, lets see.  My compressor (29 Gal 2Hp - 6SCFM@40psi) can't keep up for long with an HVLP gun to apply paint.  It struggled with the primer, but at least the primer was being sanded back.  I also don't own a good HVLP Spray gun, so the cost difference?  Compressor (used) - $500.  Dryer (used) - $400-700. Good HVLP Gun - $200-well over 500.  Quality automotive paint (at least 1 gal) $200+. Then let's throw in clear, thinners, sealer, etc...

 

So yea, $110 in cans is a bargain.  At least compared to doing it properly, which is the only way I would bother doing it when/if I ever get around to it.

 

Also, I took the time to primer because I had to in many spots, it was down to bare metal.  I used a filler primer (Self etch on bare metal first) so I could sand it back and try to smooth out the difference in thickness between painted and non painted.  I didn't seal it, nor did I bother to do any of the much needed body work (dents here and there).

 

For what it's worth, people think my truck actually looks good.  It doesn't look like an obvious rattle can job, which is what I was going for.

 

 

Yes, looking at your picture, it doesn't look like a spray can job to me.  Bed does look very presentable.  My dad was a painter by trade, he always told me the key to any good paint job was the prep put into the job before the paint went on.

 

The cost of good equipment to do a proper paint job on a car or truck is why I had Macco do the paint job on the truck.  $795 for labor and materials was way less than a proper DIY would cost me.  Besides, they were a block away from my office.  This Macco shop had a very good reputation.  In fact they were the only Macco shop to survive the 2008 Great Recession.  All the rest went under.  Living in San Diego means Tijuana (and much lower labor rates) is a viable, cheap alternative.  One of the other engineers I work with too his older Passat to TJ for a $600 paint job.  That car still looks decent, even up close, after 2 years.  The paint crew put time into proper prep work.

 

When I repaint my VW TDI, it is going to cost me $3K or so here in San Diego (some estimates were over $6K) with just normal parking lot dings and typical VW factory clear coat pealing to fix.  And that is not even with top quality automotive paint.  Rather a second tier paint supplier (Matrox?).

 

I just figured out what a "BC pin stripe" is.  I tend to forget that most guys here really use their trucks off road and bashing the truck is just part of the adventure.  So the "bed liner" and brushed on paint makes some sense for that use/abuse.

[MJam86]

How did you apply your monster liner?

It comes with a kit to roll on. I found that easier than spray

[Incommando]

6 cans of Rustoleum. $30 or so. Flat on the hood and from the belt line down and gloss everywhere else:

 

The plan was for this to be temporary fix  after I mated a blue bed onto my maroon truck but who knows?

 

Starting point prior to replacing bed with the blue one:

[Egm89]

 

 

 

 

 

 

I did my whole truck with the Rustoleum touch for about $110 in cans. (2-3 coats). I did however spend $24 on a HVLP primer gun from the parts store, $40 for a can of primer, and probably $200 in sand paper. I did no other body work, which would have added to the cost. In my case I wanted to remove the previous spray paint and fix the surface rust the PO created by sanding to bare metal (don't ask...). I'm happy with the results for now until I get around to actually painting it.

Sounds like you did a lot of work with the sand paper and a whole lot of time in the prep. So you purchased a spray gun to use with your air compressor. Purchased a 1 gallon can of HVLP primer and applied it with the spray gun. Then finished the job with Rustoleum spray cans?

Really do have to ask how much would a couple of gallons of automotive paint cost compared to the $110 spent on Rustoleum spray cans? Especially since you purchased the spray gun.

Well, lets see. My compressor (29 Gal 2Hp - 6SCFM@40psi) can't keep up for long with an HVLP gun to apply paint. It struggled with the primer, but at least the primer was being sanded back. I also don't own a good HVLP Spray gun, so the cost difference? Compressor (used) - $500. Dryer (used) - $400-700. Good HVLP Gun - $200-well over 500. Quality automotive paint (at least 1 gal) $200+. Then let's throw in clear, thinners, sealer, etc...

 

So yea, $110 in cans is a bargain. At least compared to doing it properly, which is the only way I would bother doing it when/if I ever get around to it.

 

Also, I took the time to primer because I had to in many spots, it was down to bare metal. I used a filler primer (Self etch on bare metal first) so I could sand it back and try to smooth out the difference in thickness between painted and non painted. I didn't seal it, nor did I bother to do any of the much needed body work (dents here and there).

 

For what it's worth, people think my truck actually looks good. It doesn't look like an obvious rattle can job, which is what I was going for.

Yes, looking at your picture, it doesn't look like a spray can job to me. Bed does look very presentable. My dad was a painter by trade, he always told me the key to any good paint job was the prep put into the job before the paint went on.

 

The cost of good equipment to do a proper paint job on a car or truck is why I had Macco do the paint job on the truck. $795 for labor and materials was way less than a proper DIY would cost me. Besides, they were a block away from my office. This Macco shop had a very good reputation. In fact they were the only Macco shop to survive the 2008 Great Recession. All the rest went under. Living in San Diego means Tijuana (and much lower labor rates) is a viable, cheap alternative. One of the other engineers I work with too his older Passat to TJ for a $600 paint job. That car still looks decent, even up close, after 2 years. The paint crew put time into proper prep work.

 

When I repaint my VW TDI, it is going to cost me $3K or so here in San Diego (some estimates were over $6K) with just normal parking lot dings and typical VW factory clear coat pealing to fix. And that is not even with top quality automotive paint. Rather a second tier paint supplier (Matrox?).

 

I just figured out what a "BC pin stripe" is. I tend to forget that most guys here really use their trucks off road and bashing the truck is just part of the adventure. So the "bed liner" and brushed on paint makes some sense for that use/abuse.

 

 

340 dlls. Paint job in "TJ", gotta love those cheap labor rates. Btw still looks good after 2 years.

[Eagle]

I had my '88 Cherokee painted by Maaco when it was eleven years old. It looked good for two, maybe three years. Then it went downhill fast. Cheap paint, lost all gloss and went flat, then rust started popping through in places where Cherokees never rust, because the cheap paint doesn't really keep moisture away from the metal.

 

I hope to repaint it this year, once the weather cools off a bit. I'll be using rattle cans this time. I have a compressor and I have spray guns, but I can do it three times with rattle cans for the price of one gallon of good automotive paint plus clearcoat.