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1988 Jeep Comanche Aka The Penny Sniffer ,pic Heavy


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  • 2 weeks later...

Ended up bending the tubes on my dana 30. Thought it was ball joints. Got it checked out and they told me the would have to get and install offset cambered ball joints to fix the negative camber. Then told me but that still won't put it back into the right camber specs, it will still be off by a degree or so. So that tells me it's deff bent. And all the measurements have told me that that the short tube it bent any way.

 

So I was looking for a waggy narrow trac d44. And can't find one. But I did find a unmolested low mileage tj Dana 30 for dirt cheap so I just picked it up to get it back on the road quicker. I know I know. I should hold out for a stronger axle but I don't have the time for that.

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We'll got the replacement dana 30 back from sand blasting. Makes it look 100 times better. Going to go ahead and order these things for it.

 

Xrf ball joints

Poly sway bar bushings

Moog hubs bearings

Us standard 4340 shafts.

Spicer u joints

Artec truss with Jonny joint uca mounts

 

Thinking about getting

C gussets and a stronger trac bar mount.

 

I already have a 4.10 center section that I'm going to swap in.

I also will be swapping over all the new parts I just put on the old bent d30. They have about 50 miles on them. Calipers, brake pads, cross drilled and slotted rotors, and ODC diff cover.

 

 

 

I know I'm spending a lot of money to build up a not very good axle. But after already swapping the 8.8 in I wanted to stay the stock width as the Dana 30 ( or very close to it atleast.) so my only solution to that is a narrow track waggy d44, which I have been looking for for the past 6 months and been unsecessfull for finding one at a reasonable price. Or a tj rubicon d44, which are going for 1000-1400 on craigslist. I'm not going to do that either. the last option being narrowing a axle, and that's something I don't want to bother with.

 

 

So the game plan is rock this and the 8.8 for a couple years (hopefully).

Then when I'm out of school I'll be able to drop some serious cash on tons and build those.

 

 

Here is the powder coated axle. Got it done locally at Texas truck rigging. These are the same guys that powdercoated my bumpers and I do not wish to do business with them ever again. Terrible customer service, and they are a bunch of dick holes. I thought they gave me a pretty decent price when I dropped it off with the sway bar to get done. $60.00 then took them 3 1/2 weeks to do what they told me was 45 mins worth of work and then they b*@$£ at me saying that I ripped them off and they made no money off it because they quoted me to cheap?!?!?

 

Anyway. Rant over...

 

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Just put my order yesterday for the following:

Dana 30 27 spline 4340 us standard chromoly axle shafts with spicier u joints
Artect Dana 30 truss with Jonny jointed UCA Mounts
Artect C gussets
and some USA Alloy Upper and Lower Ball joints

Got about the best deal I could of on all of it. $790.00 Out the door shipped.


However. The wallet hurts and the GF will be PISSED when she sees the packages coming to the front door throughout the week....

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Got a little work done today and also got the last of my parts in.

 

The USA standard 4340 chromoly shafts and alloy USA chromoly HD balljoints came in.

 

Also got the artec truss and c gussets in. Had to trim the truss a little bit. This is the upgraded truss with the Jonny joint upper control arm mounts.

 

In the picture you can see the gussets and truss in place. The lower gussets are sitting on the buckets because they are not tacked on yet of course.

 

Went ahead and cut off the old upper control arm mount to mock the truss.

 

I'm also going to plate in the lower control arm mounts instead of buying some heavy duty ones for 100 bucks.

 

Also I have the 4.10 oem center section I'm going to switch the carrier to this axle sitting on the shelf behind the turdy 30....

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

I put a push button switch in the cigarette lighter hole. Then modified the lighter to work so it would just need pushed to set it and a push to reset it.

 

I had a buddy who said he could steal any car in five minutes try to find the kill switch. He never did and I never told him where mine was.

 

I still think that was one of my best modifications on any vehicle.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Little update, Had the fan hub bearing go out on me. Found someone that had a NOS for 50 bucks. Saved me about $430 by finding it. Should be in tomorrow. Hope to put it on this weekend and start welding up the truss, installing ball joints, gears, and new chromo axles then installing the long arm lift next week.

I am tired of looking at all these new parts sitting on my shelf....

In about two weeks ill be ordering new rims and rubbers with my tax return.

35x12.50x13 baja claws and summit nomad wheels

SUM-174-6881GN_xl.jpg


mtt-5785_w_xl.jpg

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Got some work done to the new d30. Welded on the truss and upper and lower C gussets. Also added some plate to the lower control arm mount and boxed in the passenger side coil bucket.

 

This is about as strong as a D30 can get I believe.

 

Next on the list:

 

- Put the new chromoly ball joints in

- Attach and drill the Knuckles for the tapered 1 ton steering

- Install the 4.10 gears

- Install the Chromoly Axle Shafts

- Paint

- Install brakes,and diff cover.

 

 

Hopefully I can get this all done with in the week and this time next week Ill be pulling the old axle and putting on the new long arm lift.

 

 

Here is a before and after

 

 

 

 

And here are some more shots of the axle

 

 

 

 

 

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Well bit the bullet today and ordered my new rims and tires.  Prolly going to order Ironman4x4 adjustable shackles, and front a rear lockers next week. Then taking the truck to get them installed along with the gears in the front axle.

 

 

 

35x12.50x15 Mickey Thomson Baja Claws

 

 

 

 

15x10 summit Nomad Wheels

 

 

 

 

 

$1500 bucks later.... That tax return went quick...

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Switch on the left is the fuel and starter switch on the right is acc ( Radio,ect)

 

 

this is the kill switch wired to a relay inline with the starter. Flip it off and it won't start.

 

Any chance you happen to have any instruction on this? Planning the same thing on my MJ ... my lock cylinder is just about done.

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