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Alexia

Alexia's 1987 To 1997 Comanche

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wow. first time ive looked at this build in a couple months. amazing what you have done in just 6 months :thumbsup: will be watching here on out for sure

 

Thanks! I had to trim some plans from overall project goal for the one year finish date in March 2013. That still gives me six more months to finish drive train and cosmetic.

 

I can't see any of the updated pics

 

Try clearing your browser cache. My hosting provider is giving trouble with loading so many images at once. Sorry!

Alternatively the gallery listing is available here. http://www.nonamestudios.com/gallery/album/12-jeep-comanche/

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I took off the entire next week for my birthday. Lots of work is going to happen this week!

 

Cleaned and Painted Brackets

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Primered D30 Pumpkin

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Primered D30 Left Spring Pad

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Primered D30 Right Spring Pad

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Primered D30 - New Control Arm Bushings Pressed In

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3M Rubberized Undercoating

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New painted calipers and brake lines from a half ton Chevrolet truck.(Note: Routing not final, please do not duplicate.)

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Sway bar was squeaking and rusty. Sanding, paint, new oddly blue bushings, white lithium grease, and JKS quick disconnects that were laying around unused. Cleaned and greased the disconnects which made them come back to life!

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Brand new spring retainer clips. Again, I just had these in a parts box in the MOPAR packaging.

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Nice work!

 

I ran those RE drop brackets for a while on my MJ with 6" springs. I liked them a lot, they rode very smooth on the road and still flexed nicely.

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Nice work!

 

I ran those RE drop brackets for a while on my MJ with 6" springs. I liked them a lot, they rode very smooth on the road and still flexed nicely.

 

Yeah, the angles right now are still extreme because there is no drive train.

 

I ordered the pistons for the stroker today.

 

Thinking about paint, considering covering the entire body in Line-X since it will be cheaper than paint.

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Yeah, the angles right now are still extreme because there is no drive train.

 

I ordered the pistons for the stroker today.

 

Thinking about paint, considering covering the entire body in Line-X since it will be cheaper than paint.

 

AH are you for real, or just takeing the piss

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AH are you for real, or just takeing the piss

 

I had to go translate Australian, I was not exactly sure what you said. :D

 

I ordered the pistons from RPM Machine. Keith Black IC-944 with a 0.060" over sized bore. I am going to get the most liters I safely can with off the shelf components.

http://www.rpmmachine.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=5972

 

The paint, well, I have recieved rough estimates of $4,000 to $5,000 for repaint in the same or a different color. That even includes that I will have already stripped all trim and done a bit of light preparation sanding. Line-X over the entire body would be $1,000 to $1,500.

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I had to go translate Australian, I was not exactly sure what you said. :D

 

I ordered the pistons from RPM Machine. Keith Black IC-944 with a 0.060" over sized bore. I am going to get the most liters I safely can with off the shelf components.

http://www.rpmmachin...t_detail&p=5972

 

The paint, well, I have recieved rough estimates of $4,000 to $5,000 for repaint in the same or a different color. That even includes that I will have already stripped all trim and done a bit of light preparation sanding. Line-X over the entire body would be $1,000 to $1,500.

 

Ok lets try again, to do all that fine work and cover it in Line-X seem a little crazy to me ( IMO ) :doh:

But hey dude its your ride, so what ever blows ya hair back. :thumbsup:

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Ok lets try again, to do all that fine work and cover it in Line-X seem a little crazy to me ( IMO ) :doh:

But hey dude its your ride, so what ever blows ya hair back. :thumbsup:

 

Yeah, I really don't want to cover it in Line-X bed liner. I rather get the whole thing painted, but of the two well known paint shops in town they both basically blew me off.

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A paint shop is almost as important as picking a good day care. If you don't feel comfortable with one then go farther out to look for another. It's a lot of tedious work that anyone can do wrong, few can do right. If you plan on just taking it on the trails go LineX. If you plan on washing it and driving it go paint. I can't imagine the wind noice and the drag of all LineX. They do make a smooth product now that is fade proof but it's extra. Go figure. I would love to make a trail truck and do LineX, but anything would be great with an unlimited budget and storage space!!

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A paint shop is almost as important as picking a good day care. If you don't feel comfortable with one then go farther out to look for another. It's a lot of tedious work that anyone can do wrong, few can do right. If you plan on just taking it on the trails go LineX. If you plan on washing it and driving it go paint. I can't imagine the wind noice and the drag of all LineX. They do make a smooth product now that is fade proof but it's extra. Go figure. I would love to make a trail truck and do LineX, but anything would be great with an unlimited budget and storage space!!

 

There are two known good shops in town. The first one I went to basically said they would not even look at the pictures I had. They wanted the vehicle to be able to drive to them. Unfortunately that defeats the purpose of bringing it to them fully stripped of exterior trim.(Since that would make it illegal even in Alabama.) They actually told me they would refuse to paint it if it was brought with items such as the hood already removed. They wanted me to bring it in with everything in place so they could remove those parts, paint, and then reinstall.

 

The other shop is friendly, but they are so busy they can barely even give quotes.

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Thats not really unusual - I had the some of the same comments down here when I went looking at shops. After a few I finally asked one guy if he had a legitimate reason or was just trying to pad the bill, and his response was that they had tried to work with folks in the past (in that way) but found they had many "call backs" as the vehicle owner would damage the paint job during re-assembly, then try to say it was a faulty paint job.

 

Most folks would agree a lot can go wrong if you do it yourself, but after taking our time and getting some good advice we did it ourselves. Materials and paint probably cost us about $500.00 total, and probably about 80 hours labor ( two guys) for parts removal/re-install, body work, sanding and prep, painting and buffing. The actual painting only took 1/2 a day.

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Thats not really unusual - I had the some of the same comments down here when I went looking at shops. After a few I finally asked one guy if he had a legitimate reason or was just trying to pad the bill, and his response was that they had tried to work with folks in the past (in that way) but found they had many "call backs" as the vehicle owner would damage the paint job during re-assembly, then try to say it was a faulty paint job.

 

Most folks would agree a lot can go wrong if you do it yourself, but after taking our time and getting some good advice we did it ourselves. Materials and paint probably cost us about $500.00 total, and probably about 80 hours labor ( two guys) for parts removal/re-install, body work, sanding and prep, painting and buffing. The actual painting only took 1/2 a day.

 

I am entirely fine with and want them to install the parts when finished. No point having me do it when they can get it done easily and safely. :D I just thought it was dumb that it would be required to show up with all the parts installed for them to remove.

 

I already have a 200 PSI storage air compressor with adjustable output.

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I have a friend that has a '81 Cutlass and it was like pulling teeth to get someone to do paint and body work for his car. The real reason they don't want to do a job like that is the time. Now just like the rest of society they want quick money. Insurance jobs give them that, wham bam jobs with a guaranteed fat check. That way they don't have to deal with that pita customer that loves their car and just wants the job done right. I finally referred my friend to a local guy who works out of his home but is a paint guy from a local Ford dealer. He quoted him 10 months and it's already been more than 12 and the car is finally in primer. The real kicker is they don't even let you get to ask how much it would be, they just slam the door in your face and say they are too busy.

 

My take, find a person that does great work on the side and look at his projects that he has done for other people if you want a good job.

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I plan to cover my truck in U-Pol Raptor Liner because I am currently enrolled in a collision repair technology course and that is what the teacher likes to use.. should cost me about 320.00 in materials.

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looks good, but last pic shows your flange is cracked :thumbsup:

 

There is no crack there that I can tell.

 

I plan to cover my truck in U-Pol Raptor Liner because I am currently enrolled in a collision repair technology course and that is what the teacher likes to use.. should cost me about 320.00 in materials.

 

This is what I did with tinted U-POL Raptor in my Wrangler. I do love the product when it is applied properly!

 

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The pistons, piston rings, main bearings, camshaft bearings, and oil pan came in today. The block is going to the machine shop tomorrow for decking and boring along with getting the rods machine to fit the pistons.

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The old neutral safety switch got to play with Mister Crowbar just to come off. I picked up a replacement for $12 from LKQ that has less little wear on it. Just took some cleaning to make it all shiny!

 

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There is no crack there that I can tell.

 

 

 

This is what I did with tinted U-POL Raptor in my Wrangler. I do love the product when it is applied properly!

 

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Very nice! I thought about doing something like this a while back with the bed, but decided against it due to time and money constraints. Might do it when I fix the floors though... think.gif

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