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Alexia

Alexia's 1987 To 1997 Comanche

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Just some more parts!

I did the calculations yesterday. $2,741.25 in cost so far. I have over $500 worth of parts to sell off plus an entire drive train.

 

1999 Intake Manifold to help the stroker breath better. These were installed on 1999 and up XJ and WJ models to help provide more consistent torque across the RPM range. It will not necessarily improve horsepower on a stock engine, but it is a big benefit for a modified engine. $60 for the manifold including the extra throttle body and sensors.

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I needed power door panels for the power options I picked up. Going all black with this interior. Still waiting on the other panel and interior pieces to arrive. $35 shipped per panel.

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Picked up a clean hood with smooth latches, working safety catch, and sound deadening pad. $45

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SCORE!

 

Pictured is a complete set of power options, windows, locks, and mirrors, from a 1999 Jeep Cherokee. This includes the wiring harnesses! Also, a nearly mint leather steering wheel with cruise control switches, matching clock spring, and the servo to go with it. The steering wheel and clock spring cost $22! The rest was kind of expensive...

 

This is going to be a very cozy truck when it is done.

 

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You Need more then the door/window harness if you want the PW and Door locks...

 

Jeep has too many variations in the harness from 97-98...

99-01 got the same harness weather you had PW and door locks or not so you will need the larger body harness from an XJ that Had the PW and door lock Options...

 

There are basically a few differnet harness's for the 97-98 XJ's

- Engine harness

Auto

Manual

- Under Hood Harness and there were each with or without ABS

Auto

231

242

Manual which is ONLY 231

- Dash Harness

power options

no power options

- Main Body Harness (a lot of small option changes aswell)

No Power option but Mirrors

All Power options

 

I know this first hand as I build My 97+ conversion using a 98 XJ with A/C and Power mirrors and figured I would just add the PW/PL later on but then checked the NON power harness to another 98 XJ I bought that was pulled apart for the PW/PL, but in order to make them work you have to change out the Main Body Harness that needs to be custom modified for the MJ which I did not feel like doing on my truck since it is already an up and running Daily Driver...

 

So I am building a second 97+ Conversion and this time I bought a 99 XJ Limited and it is fully loaded and once Started dismantling it I looked up the Harness's in the MOPAR Computer and Found that in the 99+ they simplified things and for the Main Body harness they used only one harness if it has the power options or not and the only varience was with or without the Primium sound system...

 

It can be complicated So I always reccommend your Donar XJ has all the options you want before you start as you will find that it is just not wired for all you want if it was not from the factory that way... So you can still make the PW/PL work but you have to make it work as it will not just plug in and work like it did from the factory without the right connecting harness's...

 

Great build and speaking from having already done this you will love it when it is done...

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I already knew that my 1997 harness that loops around behind the seats does not have the power options. I have to shorten and remake that harness to properly fit inside the cab so I will be adding the appropriate wires to hook it up. The partially transparent white connector that contains all the pins for power options is empty in all the cavities except one. Nice part about this is that when I go to wire this up I can wire all the after market alarm wires in with the connector pins to make it look factory. Going to see if I can an automatic window up/down module for cheap.

 

There are a lot of other wiring modifications I will be making to the harnesses especially for sound system and such. My goal is an overall factory like feel even if a purist can point at something being out of place.

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I already knew that my 1997 harness that loops around behind the seats does not have the power options. I have to shorten and remake that harness to properly fit inside the cab so I will be adding the appropriate wires to hook it up. The partially transparent white connector that contains all the pins for power options is empty in all the cavities except one. Nice part about this is that when I go to wire this up I can wire all the after market alarm wires in with the connector pins to make it look factory. Going to see if I can an automatic window up/down module for cheap.

 

There are a lot of other wiring modifications I will be making to the harnesses especially for sound system and such. My goal is an overall factory like feel even if a purist can point at something being out of place.

 

I kind of sound like a jerk when I first wake up in the morning... Sheesh!

 

How to get rid of a Jeep carcass.

 

Step #1 - Kiss the Jeep goodbye. It had a good life and shall be properly recycled.

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Step #2 - Finalize removing anything valuable such as those 31" tires and high pinion D30 front axle.

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Step #3 - Paint FREE on the side in bright letters. This is rural Alabama, it will be gone by 8AM.

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Why don't you take it to a scrap metal yard and make a couple bucks off it.

 

No title and actually, a contractor that works in the local development came by and asked to take it. I would have to rent a tow dolly to scrap it thus losing all the cash for it.($50 for the dolly, about $50 in scrap.) I told him there is no title for it and he said that was not a problem.

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Just a quick inspection on the torn apart engine. Been busy with family matters so the past two weeks have been slow.

 

2_plnfffWmU

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I decided to cancel the stroker plans for this build out of budget concerns. As well, my LJ is making some weird bottom end noises so it gets priority on the 258 crankshaft. They are hard to come by and the LJ needs more power to turn those big tires.

 

The belt pictured is actually manufactured by Goodyear for private label packages.

I have used the Anchor mounts before and they are very good quality.

The cherry red paint on the engine block looks darker on the can's cap, but it will appear darker in the recesses of a dim engine bay. I went with Rust-Oleum engine enamel this time since most claim it better than Duplicolor. I believe them for now at least since Duplicolor discolors the moment oil or gas hits it. The head is still being rebuilt so it is not painted yet. Still waiting for a few other parts to arrive to finish the engine assembly.(Head bolts, sensors, and timing chain.)

 

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Good job, bummer about your other Jeep though. Projects come up when you least expect them.

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Do you still have the bucket seats and mounting brackets out of the MJ?

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Do you still have the bucket seats and mounting brackets out of the MJ?

 

I do and I plan to use them to adapt other seats to fit.

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Good job, bummer about your other Jeep though. Projects come up when you least expect them.

 

I was being a really dumb idiot this past week and managed to gouge the block deck. So the stroker for the MJ is back on. MOPAR P4529229AC camshaft and Keith Black IC944-060 pistons ordered.

 

No pictures to report! I did pick up a few interior pieces, working gauge cluster, and a master window switch in good condition.

 

Good job, bummer about your other Jeep though. Projects come up when you least expect them.
X 2

 

Sent you an email.

 

Can you PM me on the forum for my email? The emails from the forum return to a dead address that is not your own.

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Camshaft came in on Thursday. Heading out to the garage to clean up and start pulling the engine from the Comanche.

 

gallery_1_12_158244.jpg

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The paint on the dipstick is fully cured. Pulled the engine and played around with my LJ's spare tire.

 

Sanded Dipstick

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Painted Dipstick - It's the little details that help.

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Just a thought of what I might do for tires.

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Big hunk of useless metal.

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The Pukegoat

gallery_1_12_132194.jpg

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Looking good. I think that wheel tire combo will look good. Where did you get the door panels from. Mine that came on my donor xj are crap. I like those panels alot better.

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Looking good. I think that wheel tire combo will look good. Where did you get the door panels from. Mine that came on my donor xj are crap. I like those panels alot better.

 

One I bought on eBay and I still to find a decent passenger door panel. All from a 1999+ with the black(agate) color.

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Good choice on not stroking motor. There just $ and finicky. Spend the same money and supercharge theit 4.0 or leave it be. .....or a alum block gm 5.3 would be the bomb :D

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Good choice on not stroking motor. There just $ and finicky. Spend the same money and supercharge theit 4.0 or leave it be. .....or a alum block gm 5.3 would be the bomb :D

 

Read up a few posts, the stroker is back on due to me messing with basic rules of what tools not to use on an engine block.(I need to get the deck redone now.)

 

So stroker... AND supercharger. I am going to just screw the budget and blow it out of proportion. It will be at least a year before this project is in a fully finished state. It will be drivable before then, but some items such as the supercharger will come after the initial engine break in period.

http://boostecus.com/index.php?option=c ... &Itemid=28

 

My parts list the is ever changing and being added onto. Still need to add interior items and electronics.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc ... nFBSDMxd0E

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Template made from the XJ firewall used to spray paint mark the cutting area.

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Template removed to check marking.

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The template also works to guide the 67mm hole saw. A 67mm(2 5/8") hole saw is used so that once the grinding work to finish the hole is done it will be about 69mm.

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Inside behind the template.

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The cut out half moon is perfect filler for the existing hole.

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After some trimming.

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After lots of bad welding.

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Looking good man. Is that Por paint or spray bomb in the

engine bay?

 

Higher end Rustoleum that resists oil and gas. Though I plan to keep it clean.

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