Exxon Valdez Jeep Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 oh, and IMHO, skip the truetrac and get a full detroit. They are the biggest disappointment and waste of time if you are spending the money for a regear. I'd get an open carrier and a lunchbox locker and save some coin before one of those things. 15x8 wheels. and check out some chevy 1500 brakelines, I'll look a part# for you, they are longer than the YJ lines and just as cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exxon Valdez Jeep Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 Basically any 91-98 front chevy 1500 2wd Left front #38620 Right front # 38621 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offroader461 Posted April 19, 2012 Share Posted April 19, 2012 I ran the RK bracket and bar for several years with DD duties and offroad duties. Never had a problem with it. Thats my vote for Trackbar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rymanrph Posted April 19, 2012 Author Share Posted April 19, 2012 oh, and IMHO, skip the truetrac and get a full detroit. They are the biggest disappointment and waste of time if you are spending the money for a regear. I'd get an open carrier and a lunchbox locker and save some coin before one of those things. I want a limited slip because I will use the truck more on the street than off road (though it will leave the pavement). Its a purely mechanical limited slip without clutches that can wear out. It seems the best compromise of on road manners, off road ability and durability/reliability. You're the first person that I've heard not happy with it. Can you expand on why you call it a disappointment? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adam518 Posted April 19, 2012 Share Posted April 19, 2012 I've ran 31's, 32's & 33's all on a '97 XJ with lift height going from 4" up to just over 6". It has RE 3.5" coils that netted 4" and then I added ACOS. Using the ACOS, I have been able to adjust the front height to compensate for larger tires, changing bumpers, adding winch, etc. I'm pretty anal about how my rigs sit as well as things like rubbing. Like you, I like factory flares and I don't like rubbing. 32's will rub on in front of your front tires at the bottom edges of the '97-up factory bumper/spoiler. It can be remedied with very minor trimming on the lower corner, so little that no one would notice if you didn't tell them. 33's with the factory bumper is not a good idea, unless you remove a significant portion of material and go crazy with your bump stops. Since you are planning on long arms, which gives crazy articulation, I assume you don't want to limit the travel you just paid dearly for. If you don't plan to change your bumper, then you will be much better off with 32's. When I dumped my front bumper for a RigidCo., the front bumper clearance issues went away. With adjustable upper & lower control arms, I was able to move the front axle forward which gave more clearance at the back of the tire. That is how I managed to clear 33's with factory flares, along with slightly longer bump stops. As far as trac bar choices, I have a JKS on my XJ and it is a very nice piece, but they tend to be pricey. For the MJ, I got a RK. It's not been on the road yet but the construction seems to be very high quality. Go with 15x8's with either the 32x11.50's or 33x12.50's. You'll get better pressure against the bead when you air down and also more sidewall bulge...helping to protect your wheels a little bit. I've used JKS & RE sway bar disconnects. The JKS are tons better imo. They both do the same job, but the RE's eventually get noisy and the JKS are quiet. Personally, I wouldn't fool with any type of limited slip. You are not going to get the traction you need. I went lunchbox on both of mine and hardly notice it's there. Some brands are louder than others. After a fair amount of research, I got the Powertrax and it is so quiet my wife doesn't even notice it's there when she drives the Jeep. If I had a limitless supply of $$, I would like an ARB setup with a compressor and tank capable of using air tools, etc. If you are stock geared at the moment, you will definitely want a regear for either 32's or 33's. Also, I haven't forgotten about the 15x8 3.75" backspaced pics on 33's w/ what is now right at 5.75" of lift. Like everything I do, and 1 hour project takes 5, but it should be back on the ground in just a few days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rymanrph Posted April 19, 2012 Author Share Posted April 19, 2012 I've ran 31's, 32's & 33's all on a '97 XJ with lift height going from 4" up to just over 6". It has RE 3.5" coils that netted 4" and then I added ACOS. Using the ACOS, I have been able to adjust the front height to compensate for larger tires, changing bumpers, adding winch, etc. I'm pretty anal about how my rigs sit as well as things like rubbing. Might not be a bad Idea to consider. What's another $235 right? Will they work with my current 3" springs or will I need a taller spring to start with? Like you, I like factory flares and I don't like rubbing. 32's will rub on in front of your front tires at the bottom edges of the '97-up factory bumper/spoiler. It can be remedied with very minor trimming on the lower corner, so little that no one would notice if you didn't tell them. 33's with the factory bumper is not a good idea, unless you remove a significant portion of material and go crazy with your bump stops. Since you are planning on long arms, which gives crazy articulation, I assume you don't want to limit the travel you just paid dearly for. If you don't plan to change your bumper, then you will be much better off with 32's. I will do at least 33s, so what I may do in the meantime is swap back to my original Comanche bumper. It should give me a little more clearance until I decide what kind of aftermarket bumper I want. Personally, I wouldn't fool with any type of limited slip. You are not going to get the traction you need. I went lunchbox on both of mine and hardly notice it's there. Some brands are louder than others. After a fair amount of research, I got the Powertrax and it is so quiet my wife doesn't even notice it's there when she drives the Jeep. If I had a limitless supply of $$, I would like an ARB setup with a compressor and tank capable of using air tools, etc. I'm assuming you're referring to Lock Right Locker and not the No Slip. Unfortunately, they only make it for 27 spline 8.25 axles and not the 29 spline. I want good traction offroad, but I don't want to hurt my on road performance since that is where I'll use it the most. I don't want a selectable locker in the rear because I want to use the benefit on the street. The other thing that I hadn't considered, since I have a 242, could I run in full time 4wd with a lunchbox locker in the front on the street? If you are stock geared at the moment, you will definitely want a regear for either 32's or 33's. The plan right now is 4.56s for 33s. I really appreciate your feedback. When I tackle big projects like this, I research like crazy to find the best possible solution. I definitely don't want to spend more money than I have to, or spend twice to correct a bad decision. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camjeep3 Posted April 19, 2012 Share Posted April 19, 2012 Your truck is going to be awesome! :wrench: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adam518 Posted April 19, 2012 Share Posted April 19, 2012 You can use ACOS on any spring. If you install them with your current springs and have them threaded all the way up, they will give 1.5" more lift. Threaded out to the max will give 3.75" of additional lift. I have seen guys with '97-up XJ's run the older front bumper and I think it looks pretty good. I'd rather have something more suitable for recovery, but it would definitely help you with the tires. I have the PowerTrax in my XJ with a 29 spline Chrysler 8.25. Here's a link to Rusty's: http://www.rustysoffroad.com/powertrax-no-slip-c8-25-97-01.html I agree with what you are saying about traction on the street. Most all selectable lockers are either fully open or full locked. My auto locker comes in handy on the street more than you would realize. When pulling out onto a wet road facing uphill with the wheel turned, I used to get a lot of wheel spin and now I don't at all. While I like my auto lockers, I would not suggest running one in the front on the street in 4wd. It 2wd, it would be ok. The locker will engage when under load. So, in 4wd on an icy or otherwise slick road, it could put you in a ditch. If you want to run a front locker, I would consider a selectable lock up front. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rymanrph Posted April 21, 2012 Author Share Posted April 21, 2012 My brother bought me U-pol Raptor for Christmas and I finally got around to spraying it. I can't say anything to the durability, but I went on very easily and I would definitely recommend it over the Herculiner that we put in my brother's YJ. Here are a couple before and after shots. I used three of the four bottles. I may order another bottle so I can do the light bar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted April 21, 2012 Share Posted April 21, 2012 My brother bought me U-pol Raptor for Christmas and I finally got around to spraying it. I can't say anything to the durability, but I went on very easily and I would definitely recommend it over the Herculiner that we put in my brother's YJ. Here are a couple before and after shots. Looks good! Raptor sticks well if the surface was prepared well. Do not place anything on the liner for at least one week since it will cause it to flatten. It takes up to three weeks to fully harden. After that avoid dragging heavy objects over it. I still recommend putting wood down for those heavy objects. I sprayed this on the interior of my Wrangler back in 2008. Holding up well except for the areas where it did not adhere properly.(Mainly around the tie down hoops.) As for overall protection it is better than other liner products and plain paint. Still not as good as professional grade from Line-X. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knever3 Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 Great to see it's coming along. Nice bed liner job over the rails. I have a Line-x bed liner and I still put something down for heavy objects to protect it. I don't like seeing scratches from a trans or axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rymanrph Posted April 26, 2012 Author Share Posted April 26, 2012 Well, the guy who was going to buy my car totally flaked out (which is one heck of a story in itself), so I'm still waiting. I'm still trying to pick out components. I may forego the truetrac in the rear and install a lunchbox locker myself later. The reason for this is that I'm starting to worry less about traction and more about armor. I've found a couple companies that make sliders, but my biggest concern is my rear bumper and lower bed sides. I don't want to cut up the bed because 1. its in really good shape 2. its not reversible and 3. I still want to run a full rear flare. I remember wheeling my TJ and my bumper catching plenty of times in the rear coming off of a ledge. I just haven't found a good solution yet. I keep getting tempted by 35s, but all my conclusions keep telling me that 33s are the way to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rymanrph Posted April 27, 2012 Author Share Posted April 27, 2012 Since I had the light bar out to spray the Upol, I wanted to address the wiring. I wasn't happy with the quick disconnects used at the bar/bed union. I really don't like quick disconnects. I don't think they work very well and I was worried about them not being a weather tight connection. Here is the mess I had to start with: You can see where a couple of the connections weren't crimped well and pulled out. I found an Ebay company that was based about five miles from my work that sells weatherpack connectors. I picked up a five pin plug, crimping tool and removal tool and here is the upgrade: On the bed, here is the female plug that comes up through the floor and will be hidden in the light bar once mounted: I like this system and I may end up redoing my taillight wiring at some point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Backdraft Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 Very nice Ryan! What is the name of the company that sells the weatherpack connectors? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rymanrph Posted April 27, 2012 Author Share Posted April 27, 2012 Very nice Ryan! What is the name of the company that sells the weatherpack connectors? Performance Plus Connection (http://www.performanceplusconnection.com). Its a small couple person operation that is run out of his house, but he let me drive by at lunch and pick up the parts. He even gave me a small discount since he didn't have to ship. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midgar Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 Great build! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockMJ Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 I'm sold! Now I just need to get the roll bar and lights to use that connector with. Great info man, thanks for sharing! RockMJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rymanrph Posted May 17, 2012 Author Share Posted May 17, 2012 I got my check for my car today (finally!), so now I can start ordering parts for the truck. I'm leaning heavily toward 35s and 4.88s right now, but I may just end up with 33s and 4.56s. I will be having a shop regear my axles and weld on new perches and shock mounts for the SOA conversion. Since I don't want to pay to have them install the axle and I don't want to drive with just half the lift completed, I am going to be buying another rear axle and have them regear it. I'll just sell my current axle when I'm done. Here's my question: I currently have a 29 spline 8.25 and I can get another for about $125. My other option is a Dana 44 ('87 XJ) I found that I can have shipped to me for $325 (including shipping). Is the Dana 44 worth an additional $200? My budget for what I'm doing has already ballooned to about $6k minus what I can sell, so yeah... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89Comanche4x4 Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 If you plan on wheeling it pretty hard get the 44 otherwise the 8.25 will be fine. Are you going to put a locker in it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rymanrph Posted May 18, 2012 Author Share Posted May 18, 2012 I'll be putting a Detroit true trac in the rear end. That unit might actually be cheaper for the 44 than for the 8.25 so I might be able to offset some of the cost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adam518 Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 I have a 8.25 in my XJ and a D44 in the MJ. If you had a D35 or 27 spline 8.25, I'd say go for the D44. The 29 spline 8.25 is a really good axle...it doesn't get the respect it deserves. The only drawback is that it does't have as many aftermarket options as the D44. I'd say if the locker you want is available for the 8.25, keep it. I'd buy the other 8.25, or look around for one even cheaper, and you would have 2 extra axle shafts for cheap. I am glad my MJ already had a D44 installed when I bought it. If it had a crummy D35, I would have felt perfectly content with locating a good 8.25. Of course, I may feel differently if I were going to run 38" Boggers with a spool. Then again, if that were the case, I would probably not feel really happy with a D44 either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rymanrph Posted May 21, 2012 Author Share Posted May 21, 2012 Purchases made today: Clayton Long Arm upgrade JKS ACOS JKS Quicker Disconnects Rock Krawler Adjustable track bar (I know some advised against this, but I got such a great deal I'm going to take a chance) Bushwacker Flat Flares Wheels (I picked something completely different with a twist. Details on them later) I'm awaiting a quote update on my gearing to decide on either the 8.25 or Dana 44. I'm also going to install the lift and the flares and then make a decision on 33s (Duratracs) or 35s (something else). I will still need to pick up new brake lines and then I'll need to measure for shocks and bump stops. When the new stuff starts going on, the Hell Creek 3" lift, 31" Duratracs, Ravines and my current 8.25 will all be for sale. Anyone want to go ahead and get in line? I'll start a classified thread when the time comes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockMJ Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 Whats included in the 3" lift? Mileage on it, etc? Put me first in line and congrats on the purchases! I loved my Clayton's stuff and it took some serious abuse. RockMJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my86mj Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 theres something about a green mj that just looks so right. i have the same black wheels cept i went for real cragars and got them 15x10. fenders trimmed but man it has a wide stance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87Chief Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 Put me in line for ravines and duratracs! Pm me the price Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now