Poll: leave it be, drop it down, fullsize axles...what?

[JeepcoMJ]

my 87 comanche is currently sitting with

7-8" lift

35x12.50 tires

d30 front, 4.10 gears. disconnect axle

d44 rear, 4.10 gears

SYE np231, double cardan rear driveshaft.

 

 

 

Here's my issue...I've blown BOTH axle ujoints (since putting on the 35's) now, and it hasn't even been off road with the 35's. This in itself is kind of a feat, since I'm using "ungreasable" solid 260 joints with the caps all drilled to grease them...stronger than a 297 joint, and more meat on the ears of the shafts means they're stronger too.

I lost 4mpg by going to 35's...and I'd like to get decent MPG so I can drive it to where I'm wheeling and not cry about it.

 

 

anyways. I'm trying to decide what to do.

 

A) upgrade to fullsize axles? this will realistically cost me $2000 or more because I'm going to need new carriers...and if I need those I may as well get lockers...and then I may as well get selectables. I'll need gears, install kits, ball joints, ujoints, wheel bearings, hubs, and new rims as well as new brakes...then I gotta weld up the mounts and set them up for longarms.

 

 

2) lower the truck and switch tires to 33's. I have $1000 in mounted rubber right now to sell then...as I have 8 matched mounted/balanced 35's. I already have 4.5" coils, and I can do a bastard pack and SUA with boomerang shackles. I would then boatside it, longarm it, and truss the front and rear, with custom shock mounts. this would give me around 7" down travel, 5" up travel, low COG, and with a belly skid/tummy tuck on it I don't think I'd ever have any issues with it.

 

C) leave it be, finish the fender flares and wheel wells and other little projects on it, and pray I don't blow shafts left and right.

 

 

 

basically, I have to pull the front axle apart anyways. the spiders are welded so I need to pull them out. I want to get rid of the disconnect because it's just one more thing to break. I'd like to use a selectable locker in the front. I don't see any issues with 33's and stock axles. the boatside would cut my cab corners and rockers completely off, as well as that section of the door and the lower sections of the bed. that, with a belly skid would mean ridiculously tough underside mixed with low center of gravity and good flex.

[freakjeep93]

I'm voting lower it. if you can mod it to have enough clearence with 33s that you did with 35s id definetly go for it. itll be easire on fuel easier on axels and i just think its a better idea . so id say go lower

[Automan2164]

Sounds like a lot of problems... I'll give you $5 for the truck.

 

Eh. You already know how I feel. +1 for lowering it and using 33's.

 

Rob L.

[beaterjeep]

I say take that 7"-8" of lift, and lower it anouther 10"-11". :D

[jimoshel]

$5? I was gonna offer him $7.50

However I would drop it down.

[Darren]

I vote for A and B.

 

Drop it down onto some badass full-widths. Run 35's.

[DirtyComanche]

How is a 260X joint stronger than a 297X? Better yet, why not a 760X joint instead?

 

I like your consistent labeling for the options.

 

If you don't have lots of cash, lower and find some cheap 33s for it.

[jpnjim]

If it makes you feel better, go with 33's, but I vote to lower it & keep the 35's.

You already have them, and a D30ft 'can' survive on them.

Get some decent alloy ft shafts, ditch the disconnect & welded ft.\

 

Personally I'd skip the $electable ft locker, and just go with a lockright tho.

[Pete M]

I would try TJ axleshafts with 760s. If I did somehow manage to toast 'em too, I'd go for the alloys/CTMs. Good luck breaking those. :thumbsup:

 

You'd have to upgrade to some pretty serious axles to get something better than the 760s. My truck only has the 297s up front.

 

Either way, a truss on that 30 would be a good idea.

[HOrnbrod]

I'm not votin', but I'll offer $2.50 for it if the other offers don't pan out.

[JeepcoMJ]

hadn't considered alloys yet...

 

 

as for the 260's being stronger....I consistantly break both the shaft ears, and the joints. prior to the 35's, with "non-greasable" 260s with the caps drilled to be greasable, I couldn't break a ujoint but could still break a shaft.

 

 

there's not enough metal left on the ears of the shafts with 297 joints. that's an argument of opinion.

 

 

...hmm. actually, alloy shafts would seem to be the solution, and keep the 35's with just 1" drop and a lock-right. do option 2 more or less and keep the tires but upgrade the shafts.

 

either way, I need to go with a non-disco axle to eliminate the extra crap.

 

 

and...no dice on sales, thanks anyways haha.

[DirtyComanche]

With alloy shafts you will move the failure point. Either the ring gear or the carrier will blow next. Failing that, you will constantly be hammering out the ball joints and the unit bearings. 35s are beyond the capabilities of your front end unless you're strictly pavement.

 

Of course, that is a matter of opinion.

[whowey]

Pat... we already talked about this... when you got the 35's. Lower it... save the money....

[Blue XJ]

I would lower it a couple inches and switch to Alloys up front. Hundreds of people run an alloyed D30 with 35's with no problem.

[jpdocdave]

i don't think you need to redesign the whole truck because you're breaking front u joints, or shafts. first of all i would only run spicer u joints, and leave them non greasable. don't drill them or anything, they're great just the way they are.

 

and after that if you're still having a problem, do alloy shafts. i remember you liking those 35's a lot, i'd keep them and find a simple solution.

 

tons of people run 35's on the d30 with alloy shafts.

[89eliminator]

lower it, keep rear SOA, keep 35s, upgrade front shafts and u-joints, longarms.

[87Warrior]

Lowering it and keeping the 35's won't help the U-joint issue, so I voted leave it.... BUT:

 

- Alloy Shafts

- Gear to 4.88

 

You complained about fuel economy and the 4.88's should bring it close to the stock configuration. When in for the gearing get all of the bearings and seals replaced. The added cost won't be much, but having a virtually brand new, tight, axle will keep everything in line. No reason your D30 can't handle 35's unless you drive like an idiot :nuts:

[Automan2164]

...No reason your D30 can't handle 35's unless you drive like an idiot :nuts:

 

(Then we might have a problem)

 

Rob L. ;)

[beaterjeep]

:agree: :wavey:

[JeepcoMJ]

I'm with rob and joe...

[Automan2164]

Yep, Pat managed to break a U-joint backing into my driveway... :teehee:

 

Rob L. ;)

[JeepcoMJ]

Yep, Pat managed to break a U-joint backing into my driveway... :teehee:

 

Rob L. ;)

 

 

dude, I was backing off the snow pile and hammed on it.