dunl Posted December 21, 2009 Share Posted December 21, 2009 Eagle is correct. I have an old rusty CJ3B that many people here have told me to forget about....but it is rare, as there weren't many of them to begin with. Each and every MJ is salvageable. I would hate to see this one lost because you started out with just as much enthusiasm as we all had when we were very younger. Don't get discouraged. Don't delete this thread. Learn from it, and look back on how far you have come in a few months. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunl Posted December 21, 2009 Share Posted December 21, 2009 Here she is....I have a welder, but I don't know how to use it yet. Not enough to properly repair her. So she waits. http://share.shutterfly.com/share/recei ... Tbt3LZowv4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted December 21, 2009 Share Posted December 21, 2009 You are just beginning in welding. slow down the pace...this is not a race. I know you go on and on about how you know what you did wrong. in hindsight, you are now aware of it. prior to, you should have already known to do proper prep especially on this project. all is not lost though...you have braces in place. get the proper height plate to do the sides in one go, and plate the sides first. then remove what you have already welded, and cap off the bottom of the frame with something that is the same width as the bottom of the frame. remember...each and every weld is a stress point. that stress point is only as strong as the person who welded it made it....judging by your pictures of your welds, I would say to get some practice on 10 gauge sheet steel before continuing the project, learn how to penetrate and not burn through. then commence with repairs that require as little welding as possible (i.e. don't use multiple strips to accomplish a section...that's no bueno) really, leave the thread. stop saying you know or going over what you know, and just do it. you'll come out of this having learned a great deal both about maturity (pacing yourself, in this case), as well as welding. -Pat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldrusty Posted December 21, 2009 Share Posted December 21, 2009 :agree: The best way to learn how to do it is to do it.....Just be open to the advice that others offer you...No one wants to see you give up. Maybe practice on a couple pieces of scrap of the same thickness to get your heat and wire speed setings dialed in before you start in on the truck.No one wants to make you mad or discourage you they just want to see you succeed.If you were closer Id be glad to come and give you some help but your a bit far from ohio...........and Ive got snow here to plow.....lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freakjeep93 Posted December 21, 2009 Author Share Posted December 21, 2009 yea I'm not deleting the thread I'm going to keep going with it . i think i will leave the bracing i have already done in place but i may reinforce it because i don't have any other steel that would be the right length for the bottom. but I'm going to work again on it once i get the welder going again (the tips all clogged up ) and I'm going to do a good job with the sides. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freakjeep93 Posted December 21, 2009 Author Share Posted December 21, 2009 okay here's is a very rough sktch of the plate I'm planning to put over the cracks . cut me some slack I'm reall bad wit photoshop the real one will be about 5o yimes better than this: butimaging it bolted at both ends then I'm going to wedl it on inside where its warm . eith the box off and no extension cor :wall: and a higher heat level. but ive got the other side bracing to do firs . then the box is coming off and its going indoors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted December 21, 2009 Share Posted December 21, 2009 In my opinion the side plating needs to extend considerably farther away from the break, both forward and to the rear. Not nearly long enough the way I'm seeing your sketch. Think "lever arm." The break point is a hinge. The farther away from the hinge you can place the welded ends of the patch plate, the less stress there will be on the welds. I would hope you could extend at least 6 to 8 inches on each side of the break, and if you can get a foot on each side that's even better. Remember, too, that the vertical plates are like the vertical center portion (the web) of a steel I-beam. The web does no work -- it is there only to keep the top and bottom flanges separated. That's why in aircraft and racing cars you see structural members that have holes in the center portions of the structure. That portion isn't doing any work, so it doesn't hurt to remove material to save weight. What that means for your patch is that you can make your plates longer, and then along the mid-height line (the "neutral axis," where the steel isn't in compression or tension" you can cut out a couple of small-ish holes and weld through those as well as at the ends. That provides more complete attachment of the plate to the parent frame. Don't forget to "fish eye" the ends of your plates. Don't cut them off on a vertical line -- make the ends like the nose on a football. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freakjeep93 Posted December 21, 2009 Author Share Posted December 21, 2009 as i said its rough id make it longer on the cab side but the body mounts in the way and i really don't want to cut it off. so i might make it longer on the other end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted December 21, 2009 Share Posted December 21, 2009 I recommend a LOT more steel. If the frame was weak enough to break, it'll be weak in other places too. I would plan on plating the entire length in angle iron. At least on the outer/lower edge. the "body mounts" are sacrificial. hack them out of the way and rebuild them later if you must. Rossette welds are your friends. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freakjeep93 Posted December 21, 2009 Author Share Posted December 21, 2009 i am gong to put more steel in than that it will extend further toward the rear spring hanger abit but i don't want to take the body mount off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted December 21, 2009 Share Posted December 21, 2009 i am gong to put more steel in than that it will extend further toward the rear spring hanger abit but i don't want to take the body mount off. So how thick is the body mount, and how thick is the steel you're using? If your steel is anywhere near the 1/8th inch you said, you should be able to inlet the back of it so it can pass right over the lower flange of the body mount. At the very least, carry your steel up to within 1/8" or so of the body mount and cope the plate to the same shape. That way your weld can tie into the body mount, too, so you'll have additional thickness to resist burn-through. But I would seriously consider pocketing the plate and running it right over the body mount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJM/78 Posted December 21, 2009 Share Posted December 21, 2009 Cool thing is you have 2 trucks !! So whatever you learn , you can apply to the other truck and vise versa . I agree with cw and peat , Must replace metal !!!! Cut and chop or fab a whole new rig is the best way to invest all your time . beefy is better . :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted December 21, 2009 Share Posted December 21, 2009 I'm sorry I cannot keep closer tabs here, but the advice your getting is TOP NOTCH!! I'm glad you decided NOT to delete this post!! Don't worry about showing the mistakes. We all learn by making mistakes, NONE OF US where born great or even good welders!!! Eagle is correct, make the repair panels as long as you can, 12" past the break ON EACH SIDE is NOT too much!! Also equally important do not end patches at 90 degrees. Birds mouth them, like Eagle said, like the end of a football. Also you need to remove all infected steel BEFORE covering it with new panels. Otherwise the rust will continue at a much faster rate ruining your new steel and the steel its welded to! Have you taken the time to watch some of my suggested clips? It really will help, seeing proper welds and preparation of the welds. Good luck, CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted December 22, 2009 Share Posted December 22, 2009 Another idea (like you need more overload, right?) -- I really REALLY believe you need to extand your patch forward of that body mount. If the idea of notching out the back side of the patch plate to create a recess for the body mount flange won't work for you, there's another way to accomplish more or less the same thing. Run your patch plate a little farther forward than what's in your sketch. Get close to the body mount, but don't make hard contact -- leave room for a weld bead in between. Then put another patch plate onto the side of the "frame" rail forward of the mount. Make this one at least six or preferably eight inches long, and try to cover the full height of the frame rail. Weld around all four sides/edges to ensure that it's sealed to the frame. Now -- take another piece of your patch plate and add a second layer to bridge over the gap where the body mount is. Don't extend this piece to the ends of your original patches -- make it maybe six or eight inches long total, so it extends only a few inches onto the original plates on each side, and falls a few inches short of reaching the outward ends. Be sure (again) to weld all around so the entire perimeter is sealed. You DON'T want moisture and salt to get in behind your patch. Lemme see if I can simulate what we mean by the fish eye ends on the plates. This will be CRUDE: . Straight cut-off (bad): ._____ | | | | | |_____ "Fish eye" (good): . ___________ . / ./ ( .\ . \_________ Best I could do using keyboard characters. Visualize that being more rounded or elliptical at the end (like a football) and you have the idea. The point is to not concentrate all the stresses from the welded seam/joint in a straight, vertical line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freakjeep93 Posted December 22, 2009 Author Share Posted December 22, 2009 man am i ever glad i didnt delete this!. anyway yea ive been tossing ideas around and :agree: with that idea and i think ill try it it won't be real pretty but I'm going to try it but first ive got to get the other side brace so i can take the box of and move it around. thanks guys :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freakjeep93 Posted December 23, 2009 Author Share Posted December 23, 2009 well ive hit a roadblock brrrrrrr :ack: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunl Posted December 24, 2009 Share Posted December 24, 2009 Isn't it only 0 Celcius there? :yes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freakjeep93 Posted December 24, 2009 Author Share Posted December 24, 2009 today yea but we got 25 cms of snow yesterday :ack: i plowed twice and ive gotta do it again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted December 24, 2009 Share Posted December 24, 2009 Photo looks just like my MJs and old XJ. 0 Celsius would be a heat wave - we haven't seen higher than about -5 (Celsius) here for a week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freakjeep93 Posted December 24, 2009 Author Share Posted December 24, 2009 yea i may dig it outr sometime and contiue work... but right now its serving well and a cooling stand for the rear end on my quad :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted December 24, 2009 Share Posted December 24, 2009 Photo looks just like my MJs and old XJ. 0 Celsius would be a heat wave - we haven't seen higher than about -5 (Celsius) here for a week. You got that rite Eagle!! Yesterday @ 5AM when I was getting ready to leave work it was 3 degrees!!! MERRY CHRISTMAS everyone!!! CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freakjeep93 Posted December 24, 2009 Author Share Posted December 24, 2009 merrey christmas man Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daltonmcgill7 Posted December 24, 2009 Share Posted December 24, 2009 Photo looks just like my MJs and old XJ. 0 Celsius would be a heat wave - we haven't seen higher than about -5 (Celsius) here for a week. You got that rite Eagle!! Yesterday @ 5AM when I was getting ready to leave work it was 3 degrees!!! MERRY CHRISTMAS everyone!!! CW 3 degrees its 72 here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MancheKid86 Posted December 25, 2009 Share Posted December 25, 2009 no snow here :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted December 25, 2009 Share Posted December 25, 2009 merrey christmas man Same to you and ALL my CC brothers!! CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now