freakjeep93 Posted December 29, 2009 Author Posted December 29, 2009 it will handle 0.35 thats what I'm putting in after the roll of 0.30 runs out I'm just to lazy to change tips when ive got 0.30 rolls.
freakjeep93 Posted December 29, 2009 Author Posted December 29, 2009 opps i just remembered its a 20 % duty cycle and 88 amps and its advertised as a 100 amp welder
CWLONGSHOT Posted December 29, 2009 Posted December 29, 2009 oops i just remembered its a 20 % duty cycle and 88 amps and its advertised as a 100 amp welder That's still not bad, and a bit better as far as amps!! IIRC mine is 20% and 130amps max.... BTW, my frame repairs was done with a mix of .030 and .035 but ALL flux wire. Did I mention that clean steel makes better welds... just saying.. :D CW
CWLONGSHOT Posted December 29, 2009 Posted December 29, 2009 yea LOL I'm still learing We ALL do everyday of our lives, until the good lord calls us home. Peace, CW
JeepcoMJ Posted December 29, 2009 Posted December 29, 2009 I see no clean metal in the pictures.... cleaning just the edges (where you cut to fit) is not enough. also, the entire frame rail should be bare metal in that area...then primer it with zinc weld-through primer PRIOR to welding the frame rail itself. wouldn't hurt to drill holes in the new plates on the sections where the frame rail is still there, so you can plug weld several spots.
MancheKid86 Posted December 29, 2009 Posted December 29, 2009 wouldn't hurt to drill holes in the new plates on the sections where the frame rail is still there, so you can plug weld several spots. :bowdown: :bowdown: plug welds are you friends, make lots of them and they will be very good friends :)
JeepcoMJ Posted December 29, 2009 Posted December 29, 2009 wouldn't hurt to drill holes in the new plates on the sections where the frame rail is still there, so you can plug weld several spots. :bowdown: :bowdown: plug welds are you friends, make lots of them and they will be very good friends :) yes, but unfortunately the holes need to be drilled into the new material PRIOR to welding them to the old material...so that's now out of the question.
dunl Posted December 29, 2009 Posted December 29, 2009 Not a welder myself, but rather a teacher. Can one of you guys post a picture of CLEAN steel, ready to be welded? I think that might help here, and I don't have anything suitable. Plus it's cold outside. lol
JeepcoMJ Posted December 29, 2009 Posted December 29, 2009 this is what clean steal would look like....zero rust....and not just on the contact area...the WHOLE PIECE should be rust-free, so that it can be rust-proofed. and notice how the paint/undercoat is/would be cleaned off of the item to be welded to. http://www.globalwest.net/images/Img4102.JPG and those are proper welds, as well. unfortunately, the link image is too large to directly post on here...and I don't really care enough to resize it. every surface to be welded to should be SHINY metal with no contaminates (i.e. no paint, no rust, no other objects on the metal)
freakjeep93 Posted December 29, 2009 Author Posted December 29, 2009 i wish i could find / use ,etal that clean but it doesnt exist around here unless you buy it from the store and in some cases ots even abit rusty there. right now I'm wsing steel ive haed for years and it has some suface rust and ive tried wire wheeling a piece off once and the surface rust won't come off.
CWLONGSHOT Posted December 29, 2009 Posted December 29, 2009 This is what you need, combined with a high speed grinder!! The will remove EVERYTHING RITE QUICKLY!!! Wire wheels on your drill motor are fine for loose scale or to clean up weld slag, or a bolts threads but they SUK at actually cleaning steel. You NEED a high speed grinder!! I cleaned everything under the patch panels, but only cleaned the weld areas to bright shiny clean bare metal. CW
freakjeep93 Posted December 29, 2009 Author Posted December 29, 2009 ive got a grinder actually ive got 8 of them.. i just gotta find that damn wire wheel
CWLONGSHOT Posted December 29, 2009 Posted December 29, 2009 ive got a grinder actually ive got 8 of them.. i just gotta find that damn wire wheel MAN, get some NEW glasses, a wire wheel will NOT CUT IT!!! Forget about using a wire wheel!!! A reg 1/4" cutting wheel used to clean the steel is better than that wire wheel!!! Get yourself a couple flap discs!!!! CW
freakjeep93 Posted December 29, 2009 Author Posted December 29, 2009 okay i think i have some of them somewhere
MancheKid86 Posted December 29, 2009 Posted December 29, 2009 ive got a grinder actually ive got 8 of them.. i just gotta find that damn wire wheel MAN, get some NEW glasses, a wire wheel will NOT CUT IT!!! Forget about using a wire wheel!!! A reg 1/4" cutting wheel used to clean the steel is better than that wire wheel!!! Get yourself a couple flap discs!!!! CW agreed, saves alot of time, instead of hours and hours on end of sanding down the inside of my truck i only had about 3 1/2 hours of grinding
AmJay Posted December 29, 2009 Posted December 29, 2009 My favorite rust removing tool is my sand blaster. However, this time of the year my air compressor isn't up to the task. In fact I drain it in the winter. But, when it's warmer and the humidity isn't too high. Sand blasting is rust's enemy. Mac...
freakjeep93 Posted December 29, 2009 Author Posted December 29, 2009 if i sandblasted the frame id have no frame LOL. but no i would love to sanblast the entire truck and see whats left so i could start over from scratch but I'm 16 no job and I'm broke so i can't
AMC-MJ Posted December 30, 2009 Posted December 30, 2009 :bowdown: Sand blaster you can wire brush for day's or cut days in to hours by grinding or better yet cut hours into minuets and sand blast 30-45min oughta be good enough . . . Great lakes = Rust Jeeps = Rust Great lakes Jeep's = :waving: Canada that explains it isn't winter almost year round up there ? I was woundering how you ended up with way more rust then my Wisconsin born n raised MJ. Mike
freakjeep93 Posted December 30, 2009 Author Posted December 30, 2009 not all year round we get 3 months off lol but yea rust is my enemy and its every where . some of the cali mjs ive seen here are cleaner than dads 99 s 10
MancheKid86 Posted December 30, 2009 Posted December 30, 2009 :bowdown: Sand blaster Canada that explains it isn't winter almost year round up there ? I was woundering how you ended up with way more rust then my Wisconsin born n raised MJ. Mike lol not even close, depends on where u live, where i am winter is just under 1/3 of the year and gets down to -20 celcius to +45 celcuis, where i used to live, was -50 celcius to +25 celcius and 2/3 winter of the year, so rule of thumb, the higher u go, the colder it gets, we don't live in igloos either xP and nor do we have polar bears as pets, lol sorry hijacked thread
AMC-MJ Posted December 30, 2009 Posted December 30, 2009 Oh wonderful, salty road's kick the salt up from the bottom . . . Now you have sea mist attacking it from the top . . . Truck's getting hit above and below the floor pan ! in that case i would have to say it's holding up rather well . . . Mike
freakjeep93 Posted December 30, 2009 Author Posted December 30, 2009 nah his is normal for its age. check out the link in my sig thats my very much less contrivetial build . its my restoratin . and it is pretty much the bect you will ever find of something this old . my chevys pretty decent too
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