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Showing results for tags 'CLUTCH'.
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Anyone have any tips or tricks for bleeding a new clutch system? This is on a Peugeot trans. I fear I may have blown out my brand new slave cylinder. Installed new clutch, master and slave the other day. Whenever I push the pedal in its dumping fluid out of the bottom of the clutch housing. Have a new slave on the way but don't want to pull the trans again if I don't have to. I filled the master with fluid and pushed the pedal in to fill the system, fluid went down and repeated then noticed it was pouring fluid out of the bottom. Not my first clutch but still new to manual trans maintenance. From what I have researched I feel like there was too much pressure in the lines and it blew the seal out of the slave cylinder. Thanks for any help. -
Hello. I have an 87 SporTruck 4x2 with the gas 2.5L inline 4 and the AX-5 transmission. My clutch fluid was leaking out of the transmission so I pulled the transmission out and replaced the internal clutch slave cylinder. Then I started driving it again and the clutch engagement point was very low, but if I pumped it up, it would move up, so I replaced the clutch master cylinder too. I’ve got everything really nice and tightened down. I bled it once, and then later a second time. Now my clutch engagement point is moving around wildly and I am very concerned. The fluid level in the little plastic reservoir is exactly the same every time I check it, right at the MAX line. Sometimes it is a long and gradual engagement, and sometimes it is a very short and abrupt engagement. Sometimes it is right near the bottom and sometimes it is closer to the top. I looked around and nothing appears to be leaking, but it’s been wet out and it’s hard to tell. The fluid level hasn’t gone down so I guess it’s not that.
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Hey guys, I got a problem on my hands with my 1989 MJ 4.0 2WD with the BA10/5 transmission. To start at the first of my problems, my clutch pedal started to feel soggy. I checked the fluid level and it was low, so I topped it off. A week or so later it was soggy again and low so I topped it off again. Doing this over and over I decided to check the master cylinder. It didnt look like it was leaking too bad but it was a little bit, so I changed that out and bled it. After I bled it, it felt great, but then after only driving it around the block it went soggy to zero pressure and then there was fluid leaking between the dust pan and tranny. So I figured it was the slave cylinder all along. I then dropped the transmission and replaced the slave cylinder, while I was in there I replaced the clutch and pressure plate as well. Now with everything back together and after bleeding the clutch I get good pressure, but when I start the engine and try to put it in gear it will not allow me to at all, and the clutch pressure starts to slowly fade away. After shutting the engine off it seems like the clutch pressure gradually builds up again. I then bled it again and then pushed in the clutch while I’m gear and had another person try moving the truck. It will not budge. I can hear the clutch moving a little bit by repeatedly pressing the clutch with the engine off. I tried bleeding it several other times and still the same issue occurs. The tranny shifts perfectly while the engine is off and it has fresh fluid. I am stumped on this one guys... as of this moment I am going to try leaving the reservoir cap off over night while the clutch is pressed all the way down to see if any air in the system can work it’s way out. I would really appreciate any of your guys help as I am trying to get this going as soon as possible. Thanks.
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clutch No clutch and black fluid in reservoir
Foffett posted a topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Please help, I've got engine oil in clutch reservoir (?) I recently became a proud owner of a 4WD 89 Comanche 4.0 paired to a Peugeot transmission, but the previous owner lost the clutch while delivering it to my house, making clutch-less shifts. We added fluid to the master cylinder reservoir, pumped the clutch, and the fluid turned black. Now the clutch has some pressure, but quickly loses it as it drips from where the rear main seal would be. The seller mentioned that the rear-main seal was most likely bad, and it explained the oil leak that I saw when I test drove it. The master cylinder doesn't seem to be leaking, nor does the line leading to the internally located slave cylinder. The engine oil is pitch black and very low. My best guess is that the slave cylinder blew and is ingesting oil from the rear-main seal leak? Has anyone encountered this? I tried to find videos on how to replace the slave cylinder when it's internally mounted, but had no luck. I wanted to get it running myself so I could plan out what the build would be, but now I'm wondering if I should send it out, swap to an AX15, replace the clutch, and convert to an external slave cylinder. Any advice is much appreciated -
Hey guys I need some help, I recently replaced my clutch along with replacing the master cylinder and slave cylinder. The only thing I didn't replace is the hose going between the master and the slave cylinder. It's an 89 with an ax15 swap, internal slave. I need to find a new hydrolic line for it but have no luck finding one. The line starts with a hard brake line and fitting that screws into the top of the master cylinder then takes a 90 degree bend and goes over the brake booster towards the center of the jeep then takes another bent towards the trans tunnel and turns into a flex line. When it reaches the bell housing it goes back to being a hard brake line and takes a 180 degree Bend and meets the slave cylinder lines coming out of the driver side of of the trans. I don't have any pictures of it at the moment but I will take them if needed. Anyone know where I can buy this hydrolic line? Or even get one used from someone on here? I tried searching all the local junkyards but couldn't find one. Thanks
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Hey guys I need some help. Was driving down the road came to a red light sitting in 1st gear with the clutch in, it wanted to stall, right when I took off it stalled and the pedal went limp/ had no pressure. Is that a slave cylinder issue? Or what could be wrong? Thanks.
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Hi all, I just got my first Comanche a few months ago and it's been an awesome truck for me so far. Until the other day I started her up and the clutch went down to the floor, and I could barely change gears. I checked my reservoir and it was dry, so I topped it off hoping that would do the trick. Nothing. I did some research online (including this site) and figured out it's probably one of the cylinders that went bad. The problem is I'm not sure which one. I'm really hoping it's the master, because unfortunately my truck has the dreaded internal slave cylinder, and I don't have the knowledge or tools to drop the transmission myself. Thing is, there's no visible leaking at either cylinder, so I'm completely lost as to which one I should replace. At this point I'm thinking of just doing the master myself, and if that doesn't fix the problem then I'll take her into a shop. But I would love to spare myself the trouble and cost of replacing parts that don't need replacing.... Any help would be greatly appreciated!! Cary -
what's up fellas I have been having this clutch smell when taking off on first, could this be a sign of it going out?
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Hello everyone! I need more help. I have an older thread about this clutch repair here: I got the clutch fork from OMIX ADA. They said it would fit a 1986 with a 2.5 liter. It isn't even close. I am posting pictures of my transmission, and the clutch fork that was in it. Some things that make me think it may not be the original clutch is that it has 196,000 miles on it, it supposedly had the engine overhauled at some point, and it had the 9.125" clutch, not the 9.6" clutch in it. It also had ARP flywheel bolts. Here are some pictures. Help me figure out what I have and what I need. -
Attempting to put in my new AX-15 and learned something today. The Master Cylinder for the '92 models uses the same "pin" style fittings as the later models, even though I have an internal slave like the rest of the Comanches. Meaning, I don't need an adapter and a new line to attach my JY slave I salvaged nor do I have to fool with swapping out my master (possibly the rod end is a different size, have not confirmed). Apparently the older Master Cylinder was used until '91 and changed in '92.
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Hey guys, so I drive a 87 comanche 4x4 4.0L. It originally ran the peugot transmission and I never had any issues with the clutch in that, I was just eager to swap it and now have a NV3500 transmission in place. The master cylinder I am using is as far as I can tell meant for the comanche, http://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/clutch-master-cylinder/duralast-clutch-master-cylinder/jeep/comanche-4wd/1987/6-cylinders-m-4-0l-fi/69675_0_0/ The slave cylinder I use I believe is for a 2000 jeep cherokee 4.0L 4wd. I use a braided hose to connect the two. http://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/clutch-slave-cylinder/duralast-clutch-slave-cylinder/jeep/cherokee-4wd/2000/6-cylinders-s-4-0l-mfi/577903_0_0/ Finally to my issue! I have swapped out 4 slave cylinders and 2 master cylinders ever since I did the swap. Is there something wrong with my setup or does autozone just provide crap parts? Please help asap I need a new master cylinder cap and I know they're gonna make me by the whole master not just a cap. **Note** Just so you know if i'm doing anything wrong. I install my slave typically with the retaining straps still on and then I let the pressure break those straps on their own, maybe this is the wrong way to install? Also there is no bleeder valve on the slave and I've read a lot, seems like everyone just pumps the pedal to eternity and I did the same to bleed the system, seems to work for a little while atleast
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How the heck do i remove the top two torx bolts on the top of the transmission?! I want to leave the engine in. i have read on a couple different post that they are E12? I don't think a socket wrench will fit between the firewall and back of the engine. I already have the cross member out and the trans and TC on a tranny jack.
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Hello!! I am a new Comanche owner. My grandfather left a 1990 to me when he passed away. I have enjoyed the truck for quite a while now.. but I am now in a pickle! My clutch wasn't engadging when I depressed the pedal. Grinds horribly when trying to get it into reverse, and I have to force all gears into place! Took it to the dealership... told them the slave must be out.. what can ya'll do.. and of course they replaced EVERYTHING. After a full clutch kit, slave and master replacement, the clutch pedal still remains not more then a few inches off the floor board. The dealership tells me that the part required to fix the pedal assembly and the ENTIRE clutch assembly is no longer avalible. My question is, which Jeep model will fit the Comanche clutch and/or clutch brake assembly, and what alterations must be done to fit it? I am done jerking off the dealership. Thanks!!!
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i am in need of a new clutch and needed some info on which one people have had the best luck with. I used a Duralast the last time i put one in a vehicle. and was not super happy with the results. I am wanting a clutch kit with a slave cylinder included. i have looked on a few websites and seen some i like.i am not trying to spend a arm and a leg on it but i would of course like my moneys worth. summit and RockAuto has a few on there website that are decent. the clutch is going to be in a daily driver and mild wheeler. thanks for help guys.
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Hi guys, I got a '86 2.5 with an AX-5 and 4x4, recently my master cylinder started leaking so i decided to replace both the master and slave cylinder. Looking at the Slave cylinder, it seems near impossible to reach the top bolt on the slave cylinder. Its an external cylinder. Does anyone have any ideas? Do I have to drop the tranny or can it be done? Thank you
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I HAVE AN 86 COMANCH E X W/2.8 5 SPEED. JUST FIXED ALL THEN IT WOULDNT SHIFT I HAD TO START IN GEAR PULLED TRANS AND THE CLUTCH FORK IS CRACKED. I HAVE BEEN HAVE HELL TRYING TO FIND THE CORRECT FORK. IT MEASURES 11 1/2 X 4 X 1 CAN ANYONE POINT ME IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION
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So I'm stuck in gear, not sure if 2, 3 or 4, but was driving in 1st when happened. I was leaving a driveway in 4wd (snow and slush) got out of driveway fine and got out of subdivision on to main road where I tried to shift out of 4hi while in 1st before cutting wheels to turn. Bam truck lurched and died. Cranked with clutch in, put shifter in to 1, let out clutch and died. Burned lots of cluth to limp to my parents driveway and am now stuck. Any help appreciated. 1988 manual trans (pugeot) 4x4
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Hello! So my '87 MJ sportruck had a slew of issues last summer and has been sitting in my drive way ever since. Right now it won't go into gear, so I'm assuming the clutch needs to be replaced (hopefully not the entire trans, I'll start with the clutch and go from there) I have the new clutch, but I don't know how to replace it exactly, I used to have a link to a DIY tutorial, but can't seem to find it anymore. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance! :) Ciao, Ian 1987 Comanche Sportruck, 5 speed. 4.0L inline 6
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I need a clutch pedal. Mine busted and I'm gonna try and weld it but I would love to have a back up... Thanks taterdrums at yahoo.com
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I have a 92 MJ L6 4.0 5speed with the internal slave cylinder, I’ve been told and read up on this and other forums as much I could about this swap and think I have a good understanding of the process. My question is, I have a friend looking to get rid of his 96 Dodge Dakota, from what I know it has the same AX15 transmission with the external slave, however it has a 4L engine, does anyone have any information if this will still be a bolt on fit for the bellhousing? Also, when replacing the clutch would I purchase one for a 92 or does it need to be a 96 for the updated parts? Thanks for the help.
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Love this forum by the way. I was able to put in a headlight & ignition key chime module today that I got at a pick-n-pull because of a posting from 'hornbrod'. Thanks for that....... Subject: 88mj, 4.0L,5sp Anyway, here's the reason for this post.. My gears won't engage when shifting forward or reverse. With engine running, the clutch pedal pushed to the floor and trying to shift to reverse you can feel and hear the gears as the stick moves closer to reverse. The other gears won't reproduce the same result. It feels like it goes into gear but won't go forward or reverse. I put it in gear before starting engine and the result is the same. What I've done recently......... Swapped the original '88 Peugeot 5spd for an AX15 from a '96 Cherokee along with its transfer case. The clutch master cylinder along with slave cylinder is new from Rock Auto for a '96 Cherokee...... The slave cylinder push rod didn't seem long enough to push the throw out arm but I went ahead and installed anyway. '96 tranny and '96 slave cylinder should work correct in tandem. Its possible I received the wrong part in the correct label box, but what are the odds........ Oh, the flywheel is '88 original that's been machined (I know I opened a can of worms with that statement.) Clutch and pressure plate are also new. Thanks in advance for any ideas or guidance.
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Hi All, I've replaced the master cylinder and am in the process of installing a new clutch kit and replacing the slave cylinder (concentric bearing) in my 1990 Jeep Comanche, 2.5L. The replacement slave has a big, black fitting on the end of the line that should lead to the master cylinder. The other line is a bleeder that looks normal. The black fitting doesn't just pop off (twists freely, but won't come off with plenty of force), and it has some weird metal stuff on the inside that makes me think it's a working part, not just a cap. But the line won't fit through the hole in the transmission bell housing where it's supposed to. I'm wondering if anyone else has come across a slave that has this weird fitting, and how I can get it to fit in the bell housing. Pictures below. Here's the new slave cylinder (concentric bearing) that goes inside the bell housing. Here's a closeup inside that black fitting. And in the top right there is the hole that line needs to feed through, but it's too big with th black piece. Any help / experience with this issue would be really great. Thanks! -
Hello, I posted earlier about a clutch that wouldn't disengage. 1990 2.5L 4 cylinder RWD. With a little help from this forum I got it working again (filled and bled clutch hydraulic fluid) and have determined (mostly) that the issue is a failing slave cylinder. There's a slow leak from the slave which is related somehow. I'd like to install a new clutch kit (including slave) and master cylinder, but the slave install requires me to remove the transmission. I'm not a mechanic, don't have a lift and only have a regular jack, not a transmission jack. I own basic tools including a standard / metric socket set, but no real specific car / truck tools. Is a regular jack with a board or something and a standard set of home tools sufficient to remove the transmission, install the kit and re-install the transmission? I read about passing some chains through the shifter housing to suspend the transmission from the truck. Apparently this in tandem with a rigged jack can do the trick. I don't have a lift, either, and am not sure there's enough clearance to even do what I need to do. Anyone done this before? I'd prefer to do it myself both for cost savings and to learn a bit, but not if it's near impossible or I'll risk seriously damaging something. Thanks in advance!
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Hi all. New and hopefully posting to the right place. I just bought a 1990 Jeep Comanche about a month ago, 2WD 2.5L 4 cylinder. Has been running and cooperating great. Yesterday while driving home on the highway, I went to change from fourth to fifth and could not get it into gear. Changing gears had been feeling a tiny bit more "tough" the past couple days, but nothing that seemed really notable. I'd just been able to feel it kind of get into gear where a couple days prior it seemed totally soft and fluid. Anyway, I then tried to get back into fourth and couldn't. I slowed down, pulled off the highway and tried all gears as my speed dropped. None would go. Off the side of the road I idled a bit, and was able to put it into second after a minute. I got it home driving slow but had to really push it into third and fourth (no grinding, just very tough). In the driveway while off it goes into gear very easily. Once I've started the engine, however, it's difficult to impossible again. I have a very minor (drop a day or less) oil leak in what I believe is the main rear seal and valve seals. Otherwise nothing wrong that I know about. Is this a clutch problem? I'm not a mechanic but can certainly troubleshoot / perform repairs with a little direction. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
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Hi everyone! Replaced the clutch a week ago: slave cylinder, presure plate, disc, and had the flywheel surface machined. Has a very firm pedal and everything works fine, but today I noticed a strange "Ticking" noise coming from below the engine. It stops when I depress the clutch pedal just a little. Someone experimented this problem? Could it cause any damage? (Sorry for my english, i'm working on it :thumbsup:)
