Limeyjeeper

Be careful. I tried the Addco kit made the Comanche downright dangerous. Had way too much rear wheel lift Not well engineered really wouldn't recommend it. It was way too stiff. Had the Addco on the front that works fine. If you go DIY don't get too stiff a bar you don't need rear wheel steering !!

The JCR Offroad Comanche has Notch Flares. Google JCR Comanche and you will see a bunch of images. (It is the Orange one). They are fiberglass not metal so they are probably about as tough as the factory flares, which isn't very....

No it isn't.

Good luck and if you ever need any help or advice I am happy to share my experience with the install.

This is what the kit looks like. The guys at Boosted are great to work with. Very drama free install.

Mine is a top mount because with the Wrangler you have a lot of clearance. On the stroker it would be insane. I am going to do one on mine once I rebody my Comanche.

SEMA 2017. It looked awesome close up. With a Boosted Technologies supercharger I bet it really goes like stink. I have one on my LJ really lights up the 4.0

The OEM Comanche muffler was center in center out (well it was on the 1991 anyways) which is hard to find. The offset in center out does work but it puts stress on the mounts and the header. I just replaced mine with a Magnaflow 11245 muffler (which is a 2.25 center in center out), a Walker 44626 Downpipe, a Walker 46701 tailpipe and a Magnaflow 23229 CAT. I had to cut a few inches off the tailpipe as the muffler is big (24"), but it fits really well. The hangers are centered, good clearance around the leaf spring shackles. The Magnaflow sounds really good, no drone, just a nice idle rumble.

It is gulp $386.86 on Amazon. A master cylinder is around $50 on RockAuto and the Booster is $70 for the later Cherokee

If your sender unit is shot (and you want it working) send it to these guys. They can fix it.. www.tristarrradiator.com Not cheap but quality work.

My bad, you are correct. Decking will push up the CR not down as it decreases the combustion chamber volume. I always try to get about a 9.2:1 that seems to keep the pinging gremlins away. My first stroker had a CR of 9.6:1 never got that running right even with 93. It did have a big valve head which I think caused a quench problem which is tough to tune around. You have to be realistic, the PCM will only adjust fuelling to a certain degree and the MAP sensor adjustment only helps with cold or WOT tuning because the PCM uses the O2 sensor to manage fuelling off WOT and uses pre-programmed maps, which on an odb1 PCM cannot be played with easily. I have found the MAP sensor mod is the best bang for the buck to eliminate pinging on acceleration. I am currently at 5.4v on mine. Probably needs a little bit more on 89 octane. The alternative is a HESCO adjustable fuel regulator to get the fuel pressure up a bit, Bottom line is that stroker's can work really well or be a bear to get running right.

Thank you sir, just snagged it for my 2006 unlimited Rubicon!! $29.80 plus $2.56 for shipping. can't beat that !!

Having built 2 Strokers and bought my last one. I would always go with 258 crank, 4.0 rods and forged Keith Black Silvolite 2229 pistons. Stay with a stock or mild cam, stock springs, mildly ported head (Doesn't need much, the 4.0 doesn't respond that well to porting except at higher revs), 99+ intake, header, +030 or +060 bore. Make sure your head hasn't been decked. A lot of the refurbs have had crazy amounts of metal taken off. That will get you in trouble. I learned that lesson second time and bought a new Alabama/Promaxx head. that way you know what you are dealing with, but pricey. I kept the deck stock, standard head gasket and it ran fine on 91. If you want 87, then deck it a bit to get the CR down, but be careful not to get to a place where you will need to change the rod length, that is a PITA to deal with. I have used the Dino poor man's stroker recipes to great effect. The wilder you make the cam the more likely you are to lose the no 6 cam lobe. (Happened to me once, not pretty) Got my pistons dished by Leigh performance. IMHO the more exotic you get with a stroker the more likely you will have tuning or valve train issues. Keep it simple and you will have a very reliable setup. Mine have all been HO engines. Not as familiar with the renix setup, but I believe the renix responds as well or better to a stroker. I do like the idea of the Edelbrock head but that is big $$$$. Your toughest challenge is getting a good straight 258 crank. I have always used my own block or a low mileage block. A bit more money but less concern about them already been bored. Make sure the block is the right year for the vehicle it was pulled from. Finally whatever you think it will cost you add 50%. just how it always works out. Never done a stroker for under $1,500. Pistons $250, crank $250, injectors $200, machining $200, head $400 - $800. Block $150. Soon adds up.

This is also a great site for stroker info http://www.jeep4.0performance.4mg.com/

I came up with the following part no's 55175586AB Right, 55175587AB Left or 55175401AB right and 55175401AC left. There is the left one (55175401AC) on ebay for $11.99. Looks like the same part you are looking for. Don't quite know they had 2 different set's of part no's

www.teamcherokee.com has them for $4,95 each oem. Great store for some hard to find items.

No I cut them and stitched them. Pretty easy. Put Velcro underneath to stop the wind getting under the flap.

Bunch of pics here.. http://www.printroom.com/ViewAlbum.asp?userid=Lancia1&album_id=229180

Great to have met some of you guys, finally. Will be back next year for sure. Those of you who asked about the 4.7 Higher Output badge. They were made by these guys www.sabinespeed.com. Their site says they will still make them to special order.

I will be there at the swap meet this year. Have a ton of stuff to get rid off. See ya there...

www.downeyproductsnortheast.com great company..... Not Velcro but has snaps invisible except for round button on surface. Looks good though.

www.sdtrucksprings.com has swb rear springs. Part No 97-555 I have them on mine. 1,250 lb capacity, Fit fine. They also do 1,000 or 1,500 lb helper springs.

Definitely works better on the 231 than the 242, as has been previously described it is tough to get it right without modification on the 242. Mine struggled to get from 2wd to 4 lo or even neutral until I drilled the lever to shorten the throw

The final big project I would like to undertake would be to convert the Auto to a stick shift. I really do detest automatics. I know it is a pretty big job, pedals, clutch cylinder, trans, bellhousing, new driveshafts and probably a manual PCM that isn't looking for an auto, but it is very tempting. I would put in the 5 speed AX15. I think it would transform the drivability of the jeep. Anybody done this or knows if it is even possible ?

Thanks for the compliment Minuit. Hornbrod I am also using Amsoil Zrod 10-30 which has high ZDDP content. I think I might do the 2 electric fan replacement and the hesco water pump. I have a flowkooler in there right now.