Limeyjeeper

At risk of getting flamed you could use a Chrysler 8.25 with 29 spline shafts. They are everywhere at the junkyards as they were used in the XJ a lot. Not quite as strong as a 44 but better than a 35 by a good margin. Not as many locker options as the D44 but a lot cheaper.

Spending most of my time on the engine. Learning the world of LS engines. Have to say it is an amazing platform. Using GM ECT and Jeep Oil pressure sensor. I am hoping the GM sensor works with the Jeep engine temp sensor. I am going to rig up a test as I have a spare gauge I can use. I had to source an Earls Straight 1/8" NPT Female to M16 x 1.5mm to be able to use the Jeep oil pressure sender unit as the block has an M16 hole and the jeep sensor is 1/8 NPT. not even close. See pic!! Heavily into the harness. I have got all the not needed jeep wiring out. Now to lay in the LS harness and get power to it. The GM PCM will controls the fans. I am going to repurpose the auto shutdown relay (Not needed in LS) to control the second fan. I will also be adding wiring for auxiliary lighting, radar detector, Winch controller. Wide band O2 and cruise control. Using the GM cruise control module, it will be integrated into the Jeep Cruise control switches on the Column. The GM cruise needs On/Off, Set/Coast, Resume/Accel, power, brake switch, and VSS feed. All these are available from the Jeep harness or the GM PCM and will be connected to the Cruise Control module. I am also going to connect the GM Cruise engaged status wire to the indicator cluster in the dash so I have an indicator when the cruise is engaged. The Jeep VSS (mounted in the transfer case) doesn't talk to the GM PCM so I am using using a Dakota Digital 8,000 PPM Sensor SEN01-1 with an SGH-5E to convert the GM AC sine wave signal to the Jeep square wave so I can run the Speedometer . You need to connect the GM PCM VSS signal input to Out 1 and the Dakota Digital VSS goes to VSS input. The GM PCM PPR needs to be set to 3 which gives 8,000 PPM. The GM PCM speedometer output will be connected to the Jeep Harness VSS wire going to the speedometer . I have a post 1990 cluster so it isn't a mechanical speedometer. If it was I wouldn't need the SGH-5E box. Novak has a nifty emulator to handle the tachometer. The Jeep PDC has had all its wires marked. It will replace the PDC that came with theLS harness. For those interested the PCM is a RED/Blue PCM Part no 12200411. I got the PCM with programming and the LS1 harness from PSI Conversions. High quality stuff.

Seats are in. Decided to make custom brackets. I am 6' 3" so we needed to get as much rear travel as possible. Dirtbound offroad bumper is painted. Hood is in paint this week.

It is like having an ex wife lol

Body is done. Can't wait to see it all back together. Just got the hood to go. Lousy fit. Had to cut the fiberglass and realign it. But it will be worth it.

Metalcloak are the best IMHO, but expensive. Got them on my LJ. Very well made. The Duroflex bushings really do a great job. Having said that I just got a set of control arms from Core 4x4. I have them on my 91 MJ. Good quality and value.

I don"t disagree with you. All I know is when I put them on with new SD Springs and ZJ up country springs which I believe gave me a 1" lift I had to add spacers to level out the Comanche. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

True I used JKS OGS651. They are longer than stock XJ shackles and have different geometry. They lift an MJ around 2" Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

JKS. But I am gonna use Core 4x4 adjustable shackles on my new build. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

I have 31's on my Comanche. XJ shackles in the back. ZJ upcountry springs and 3/4" pucks got her level. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Thanks for the list. Very cool, I had no idea there were so many accessories made for the MJ in the day!!

Novak conversions https://www.novak-adapt.com will be really helpful in figuring out what can and can't be done. Not a lot of hp gain though 235hp vs 190hp. If it is an HO then you would get around 270hp which is better. Seems a lot of work for not much gain. However it is a good deal lighter than the I6. The LS is a much easier conversion, much more after market support and much more HP. My guess is that the real fun would be making the MJ and Dakota wiring harnesses play nice and physically shoehorning it into the MJ engine bay. It would be a very tight fit.

This is a great chart that I have used. Does most of the legwork for you. http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

Yea real expensive lol.

The LS L33 5.3 engine and a used LS1 manifold turned up today also..... This is madness in action lol "I've always been mad, I know I've been mad, like the most of us...very hard to explain why you're mad, even if you're not mad..."

Got the bed painted this week and the hood is almost fitted. That was not easy. The mold is not the finest, but the guys made it work. Bed has still got to be cut and polished. Rest of the truck getting painted next week. What do y'all think of the color?

Always liked JCR's stuff. Looking good!!

Correct, the studs were part of the brace, which would have been on top of the floorpan, hence the holes in the pan. The studs went through the pan and the chassis rail. You can see the holes in the chassis rails in the pic below.

Originally they were part of the cab floor reinforcement. Looks like you cut around them when you took the floor out. I would leave them alone and cut holes in the floor pan to clearance them.

Next project is wiring. I had a NOS wiring harness from a 1992 which I bought on ebay a few years ago. This is going to be combined with an LS harness to form an OEM looking harness. I will be stripping out all the engine control wiring, injectors, sensors, alternator, cruise control, and AC circuits as well as the transmission controller wiring and adding a custom harness for an LS all integrated into the Jeep Power Distribution center. The Jeep PCM will go. The GM PCM will be mounted under the dash out of the way. This is a monster project as I am having to trace each wire. I don't trust the factory Service manual color coding. No room for error here. It has to be 100% right. I will be keeping the wiring for the lights, power to the GM PCM, AC fan relay, AC relay, Starter relay, Fuel pump relay, Fog lamp relay, Auto shutdown (Maybe), Speed sensor, and all the wiring that goes through the firewall to support the Heating and AC and instrument panel. I will also use the PDC fuses such as Engine Control, Alternator, Ignition, Fog lamps, Head lights etc. It is time consuming but I think the end result will be a neat OEM look to the wiring. Kinda scary how much wire in the harness is too long and was bundled inside the harness. Probably going to strip about 50% of the wires out and shorten some. The LS harness will control Injectors, sensors, Alternator, AC, Tach signal and Cruise Control. Using drive by cable which makes the LS harness a bit simpler. Wish me luck lol.

So I got the neoprene from McMaster and made a new gasket for the fan. Very easy stuff to work with.

Did you check the pressure switch on the drier? If that isn't working the compressor won't start.

If you have a post 1997 then they are $5 they might fit pre 97. https://www.quadratec.com/products/918886_94.htm

These are a couple of pictures of the seal on my 1991. It looks a bit different to the Mopar kit, but it might work.

I used the following pieces:- 86225K53- Flame-Retardant Super-Cushioning Foam Sheet, Polyurethane with Adhesive-Back, 24" x 24" x 1/4" $13.98 86225K57 - Flame-Retardant Super-Cushioning Foam Sheet, Polyurethane with Adhesive-Back, 24" x 24" x 1" $27.39 8647K701 - Light Duty Blended EPDM Foam Sheet Soft, 1-1/4" Thick, 42" Wide, 1 ft. Length $40.78 I didn't use the kit you are talking about because I didn't know it existed!! and it is for a 1997 onwards. I don't know if the seal is the same. If it is then I missed out on a much easier fix. You still need the Poly to fix all the other seals and internal foam.