Limeyjeeper

Definitely works better on the 231 than the 242, as has been previously described it is tough to get it right without modification on the 242. Mine struggled to get from 2wd to 4 lo or even neutral until I drilled the lever to shorten the throw

The final big project I would like to undertake would be to convert the Auto to a stick shift. I really do detest automatics. I know it is a pretty big job, pedals, clutch cylinder, trans, bellhousing, new driveshafts and probably a manual PCM that isn't looking for an auto, but it is very tempting. I would put in the 5 speed AX15. I think it would transform the drivability of the jeep. Anybody done this or knows if it is even possible ?

Thanks for the compliment Minuit. Hornbrod I am also using Amsoil Zrod 10-30 which has high ZDDP content. I think I might do the 2 electric fan replacement and the hesco water pump. I have a flowkooler in there right now.

Yea I think the chrome needs to be black. I am also going to do the Eliminator striping, that should really make it look totally original. Just waiting for Spencer to print a set up for me (no rush Spencer). My first stroker had the 1.7's. I could never get the lifter preload right. I think it is what puked the motor, one of the exhaust valves got really badly carboned because it wasn't completely closing, eventually the valve snapped and the rest is history. Never really had any loss of power, so it wasn't until the valve pushed the rod out the side of the block that I knew what happened. I replaced it with an ATK motor which has proven to be great. Still have the rockers if you want them. also got a nearly new Alabama head. Probably going to use the 1.6 Yella Terra, they are basically stock lift. They really do quieten down the valve train. Very well made, both the 1.6 and 1.7 clear a stock valve cover. Just have a small overheating problem. Never gets in the red but gets too close for my liking, it also cooks the AT fluid, so whenever I run the trans in power mode and the engine is really hot it pukes trans fluid. AF is good so I think it is either that the ATK is still tight or I need to upgrade the rad. Only done about 4,000 on the new stroker. Driving in NY is basically going from one traffic jam to another, so the cooling system gets pretty stressed. Gotta play with the D44, I have a Detroit locker in there. started with a Powertrax but it was really unpredictable and was very noisy, just need to tweak the pinion preload and backlash a bit. It is a fun vehicle to drive and I get lots of conversations out of it. the best being a guy who flagged me down by Times Square to tell me that he used to build the Comanche. he knew everything about the vehicle, showed me his old union card, pretty cool.

So here we are 4 1/2 years later, still have the Eliminator. Living in New York, became a US Citizen, so I am not a limey anymore, done a ton of work on the Comanche. Just got her a proper re-paint, another stroker, I puked the last one (badly), Dana 44 rear end, disk brakes, XJ booster and master cylinder, rebuilt front axle minus disconnect, tonneau cover, refinished steering wheel, Integrated TPMS into dash, cargo light install. It has been quite the journey. The project has given me many, many hours of pleasure and pain and there is still so much more to do. Learnt so much, much of it the hard way. This forum has been invaluable, I have nothing but respect for those who came before and after me, their knowledge is nothing but amazing. Here is the picture story of the MJ and my WJ before it. I will be adding more pictures in the coming weeks along with more detail on some of the projects. http://www.printroom.com/ViewAlbum.asp?userid=Lancia1&album_id=229466

Put one on my SWB Comanche about 6 months ago. It is specifically made for the Comanche. It is wider at one end than the other. It fits perfectly. Good quality product.

You will also need to figure out the emergency brake cable, the ZJ and MJ levers have different ends. Several solutions. I bought Crown 52" XJ Cables DBC-05 and cut the cable a little shorter. Or you can wrap and clamp the cable around the ZJ end or you can weld the MJ end onto the ZJ lever. And I am sure there are many more.

If you do it, get a ZJ proportioning valve and replace the MJ one. You can then dump the second line to the rear brakes. It also gets the rear front bias right for disk rears. If you do a Dana 44 you will have to redrill a couple of the backing plate holes as well as opening up the center hole. Not a big deal.

I had an 1131 for a while. Had a few problems. The install kit for the jeep mounted the wheel further out, which might create a problem if you are tall. Wheel is smaller than stock which makes the steering more twitchy. After about 18 months the gray started to rub off the high quality chinese leather. Ended up going back to a stock wheel. Will be getting the leather re-done at an interior place, will probably be less than a grant plus install kit. you live and learn.

I just installed the Moog CC782 Variable Rate Coil Spring. Same length as stock spring. Ride height identical, ride is good. Around $70 a pair.

The Comanche just stopped on the highway. It fired back up, but quickly started to have starting problems. Had fuel but no spark. Pulled the code it was DTC-11. So I thought no problem. It is the CPS, (again). Replaced it - still had the problem. Did the continuity tests, everything checked out. So I found that you can test power on the back of the CPS sensor (orange wire) It should read 8.9v or so with the ignition on. When you crank it should stay there. If it drops down to under 1v then the cam/synch sensor is shot. So I replaced that and she fired right up. Just thought this might be useful to somebody one day. As a side note to check continuity in the CPS circuit Orange is power for both the CPS and cam/synch sensor. It comes from pin 7 on the engine controller. Black/Gray is Pin 24 which is the CPS pulse. Pin 44 is the CAM/Synch Sensor pulse. So pull the engine controller plug. You should have continuity between pin 7 on the controller and the orange wire on both the cam/synch sensor and the CPS. You should also have continuity between Pin 44 and the black/Tan wire on the cam/synch sensor. Test continuity between pin 24 and the gray/black wire on the CPS. Finally test continuity between the black/light blue wire on the CPS and cam/synch sensor and pin 4 on the controller. You can also use 24 and 44 to check pulse. When performing continuity unplug the TPS and IAC, coolant temp and MAP sensors to make sure the test is clean. Hope this helps somebody one day.

Looking for a clean, straight, rust free tailgate. Don't care about color. Will pay top $$$ for the right gate. Will travel to collect. Last one I got was destroyed by UPS. PM me if you can help.

How about this one. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOS-1970 ... ccessories

Pics http://www.printroom.com/ViewAlbum.asp? ... _id=228968

I have the cable linkage attached to a 242 in my Eliminator. It works really well once you adjust it correctly which is a little tricky. Certainly better than the stock monstrosity. If you want to see a pic of it installed would be more than happy to snap one for you. It also allows you to keep the stock lever.

1991. Eliminator 4x4 SWB, Colorado Red, 141,000 miles 4.0 HO, AW4, NP242, Dana 30 Front, Dana 44 Rear Build date: 11/90 Current Location: New York Status: On the road Notes: Factory Rollbar, Bucket Seats, 4.6 Stroker. I am the current owner.

The linkage is the same between the 231 and 242 on the 6 cylinder. (Well it is for the 1991) The part numbers for the linkage rods etc are the same. When I did mine all I did was swap the selector assembly which has different gating and is a bit longer. The adjustment was a bit tricky. I loosened the adjusting nut on the shift rod then set the transfer case into neutral. Then put the lever into neutral and tighten it up. I had to remove the linkage rod and adjusting clip/nut to clean them up so the adjusting clip slides freely on the shift rod. If you are only getting 4 gears you probably have the linkage too far forward which is how the linkage is set for the 231 as the lever has less movement than the 242 lever.

Ok it doesn't fit PERFECTLY but it is not a total disaster. All the holes don't line up exactly so yes it doesn't fit that well but it is not like you can't make it work. geez

Got one on mine. It fits pretty good

I got the Team Cherokee insulation. Doesn't fit that well and doesn't do anything for sound reduction or cooling/heating.

Thanks, If you double click on the photo it will get much bigger. I sandblasted the wheels, polished them up using a buffer and then clear coated them. POR 15 has a kit that works really well.

The stroker motor is in, the body has been re-painted, the bedliner sprayed in and the seat's recovered. This has been quite a journey. The Stroker is a 4.6 with a 2001 intake, stock head and cam, Yella-Terra 1.7 rockers, airraid intake, cheope e-bay header and mandrel bent 2.25" system. I also rewired the tailights with a new harness with 3197 sockets from Summitt part no. PCO-5447PT. Very good quality and much more reliable than the push/twist 2057 sockets. Everything went pretty well. I used a 2001 block which was 100% compatable with the 1991 block. I got a new 96 AW4 for cheap. This was a direct swap, no modifications. The biggest problem was getting a replacement air drier/compressor. Everyone kept sending me the wrong ones. In the end Rockauto got it right first time. The only thing left will be to re-build front and rear axles. Then she will be good for a longtime. Pictures are up on my albums. http://www.printroom.com/ViewAlbum.asp?userid=Lancia1&album_id=224209

Any year XJ from 1984 to 2001 and any MJ will fit just fine.

Does anybody know if a 2000 AW4 is a straight swap for a 1991? Did Jeep go electronic or can the 91 sensors/controller still be used with the 2000 trans.