Limeyjeeper

They are super nice guys. Yes they are expensive, partly because they have to deal with so much environmental bull$#!&. Their stock of over 20 MJ's are all very clean. They have a very large selection of all jeeps. Bought a 100% clean bed from them. Shipped it. Will be back there in a couple of weeks for a few bits and pieces.

Stroker project is now officially started. Got a 99 block casting no 3010449 so it has the bearing girdle and some ribbing to help NVH it will be machined with a +.030 overbore and .010 deck cut. Sourced a 94 7120 head. I am going to use the Silvolite UEM-2229030 pistons dished out to 22cc with Sealed power SLP-E-234K30 rings. I am going to do some mild porting, and I am using the Yella Terra 1.7 rockers. The crankshaft is 3727 with the 2" snout so it will take the balancer. Also adding a 99+ intake and 63mm throttle body. Crower lifters 66031x3-12, new head bolts, Brass Freeze plugs, new Cloyes C3041 timing gear, Mopar Oil pump, Mopar pushrods All this should give me a CR of around 9.10 and a quench of .078. Getting the machining done once I get the pistons, they are on back order until early May. Total budget around $1,800. Should be fun. Yea It is a money pit :roll:

I am just starting my second stroker. Key points are keep the CR under 9.0 - 9.25 so you can run lower octane fuel and make sure your quench is not too far off the factory specs. Something under 0.085. If you stick to these two rules you should have a nice reliable non detonating jeep. Educate yourself about the engine you are building, check stuff yourself or make sure you get a good machine shop who will check everything, deck height, piston dish cc, head thickness etc no point in shaving 20 thou off a block that has already been cut. You will be in big trouble really fast. I also wouldn't do more than a +.030 cylinder overbore. The 4.0 starts to run a little hot at +.060. (Been there) and you are out of options if something happens and you score a bore. Also IMHO stick with factory cam, if you want to improve the breathing port the head. It will get you nearly the same results. Over and out.

These guys might be an option for those who have run out of any other options. http://www.tristarrradiator.com/

Northern Tool has a kit of 100 assorted sizes for $19.95 item #1708. There is a ton of them on e-bay search as "grease fitting". That seems to be a more recognized description.

3/16

3/16 lines with either 3/16 1/4 or 5/16 fittings depending on which line you are needing to change. In addition the long lines from front to back have armor coil over them to protect the lines from stones and debris. The best source for brake stuff is www.fmsiinc.com. FMSI also have fuel lines, trans cooler lines and a bunch of other stuff. All the FMSI parts can be sourced through performance tool and supply 814-362-3221 they are on e-bay as autopartsmart

The shorter shoe (B) faces the front of the vehicle.

A few pics. If you look at this link you will see a complete writeup of a floor replacement, http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=372669

Yes I will get them up in a day or two, I am in Europe right now, back home on Wednesday evening. Thank god.

Just for clarification I used Sherman part No's 075-40L and 075-40R

Just the front should work.

I used the Sherman pans on my MJ. They are pretty close but not perfect. They will need some "adjustment" to fit.

http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/fo ... y.php?f=17 or http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/strokers/

The infamous Crane 753905 with mopar springs and 2.02 intake and 1.60 exhaust LS1 valves. I think the narrower lobe of the Crane cam cannot handle the lift pressure

I did a stroker in my WJ. The biggest issue right now is camshaft selection. Some of the stroker builds including myself had serious issues with cam wear. I had the no 6 exhaust lobe collapse along with the lifter. This had happened to a bunch of strokers. My advice would be to use a stock camshaft, springs and lifters. Use Dino's site he has a huge amount of info on there. Watch out for squelch and compression ratio. Get those wrong and you will have a detonating jeep. If you can use a 96 or later block they are stronger as jeep did some NVH reduction by a girdle for added strength http://www.jeep4.0performance.4mg.com/ http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/stroker.html

You need to pull it up fairly hard with a quick jerk and it will pop off, probably grazing your knuckes on the dash in the process!!

These guys have re-prints of most of the factory manuals. A little expensive but IMHO worth it. No 1988 but 87 is available for $90. 89 onwards have the Wrangler/Cherokee/Wagoneer and Comanche in the same "jeep" manual sets. Look under shop manual. http://www.autobooksbishko.com

Mine is brand new, just installed 31.5 and 33" respectively. Could be a tiny bit off as I had to measure it on the vehicle. All the 91's use the same trackbar. however the 90 and earlier have a different trackbar, that might be your problem. A lot of stuff changed on the Comanche between 90 and 92.

I used them to fix the floors in my MJ. They are pretty close but will need some tweaking. They only go from the cross brace forward. They are not so bad that a hammer can't get the panels to fit pretty well. Their rockers are a whole other story. Major surgery required.

I use rockauto.com. Very quick and cheap. I don't like E-Bay most of the parts are Chinese or Malaysian. I personally think steering/suspension components need to be replaced with parts that at least have a US company QC behind them.

It looks like it is HWA/H2B/AY95HWB/HWB Pearl White.

If you can tell me what the primary code is I will try to find the color for you. Most of the lookup's are wrong. My primary code is PE4 which is Colorado Red, the lookup's say Colorado Red is HE4. I was told that only digit 2 and 3 i.e. the E4 are actually the paint code.

3rd row down. APA is the paint procedure the next 3 digits (which I can't read) are the primary paint code. The next 3 (QW3) is the secondary paint code.

It looks like the hoist assy is part no 52007276 and costs $170 list. It is showing as still available.