Bounty Hunter

Do not try to add credence to what you say by citing such sources as the LE community. Speaking from experience the LE community is no more in tune with what the Legislature has planned than the average citizen. You come across as simply spewing propaganda.

Which model rear axle is that? Why not use a Jeep VSS and, if needed, a Dakota Digital converter box?

I agree, get an OEM type replacement muffler. I've heard no aftermarket muffler that does the 2.5L justice. There's no performance benefit of installing a performance muffler on the 2.5L engine.

This is correct. Cheap easy fix, especially if your CAD fails on the trail. I've also used a vacuum switch from a SJ with Quadratrac to manually control the vacuum to the front axle. Works well if the lines are intact. I ran a welded front diff for years with a manual disconnect, now run a vacuum disco d44 switched to a cable disconnect, with a front spool. Traction.

Enjoyed your build thread. Not major but I would have used the square ubolts on the rear axle instead of the round ones, it'll be a tighter install.

I had that phone for a few years. I believe you would have to go through each contact and pick how it is displayed.

4" or 5" wider, not to mention prone to balljoint failure and the inner-C's easily bending. I wouldn't do it, not worth the hassle.

The blue line is a vent, it terminates in a valve to keep water out. If it doesn't want to disconnect, pull both vacuum lines from the front axle and feel for equal switching vacuum in the lines as somebody engages 4wd and 2wd. If the vacuum is equal and strong, the problem is in the disconnect at the front axle. If not equal strong vacuum, likely a bad vacuum line or bad vacuum switch on the transfer case.

What's with the column shift? Special option?

LUK brand oem clutch kit from www.dialaclutch.com .

It's an ax15 if its behind the 4.0L engine.

You're rear axle is likely 3.55 gears so leave the front driveshaft out until you have matching gear ratios in both axles.

Anybody have the actual torque handling ratings of each t-case? I vaguely remember the 231 having a higher rating than the 242. I built my current 231j with a 6gear planetary, wide chain, SS sye, and 2lo. It can handle tons more torque than my 4banger can throw at it.

I've used Firestone bags with great success

Try http://www.transmissioncenter.net/speed ... ter_Cables

Here's an option: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1075295

Correct, the transfer case shifts from 2wd to 4wd with the lever, sending power to the front driveshaft. The vacuum system only connects a 2-piece axleshaft on the passenger side of the front axle when the transfer case is shifted to 4wd. Your Jeep will act as if it's in 2wd if the vacuum disconnect is not engaged, as the power through the front driveshaft will go to the axleshaft with the least resistance, which is the disconnected passenger side.

Is your front tire under your door? :hijack:

Buy 5.5" coils for the front, then SOA the rear. You'll need to lengthen the control arms or buy longer control arms. YJ brake lines in the front and a Dakota rear line. Then measure for cheap shocks.

Does Rusty's make a spacer for the '89? I wouldn't waste my money unless it increases the diameter of the intake, like a 62mm throttle body and spacer.

To each their own, but doesn't make it right. Too much tire-jacking, on road and off. Not to mention bumps are transferred straight to the chassis through the vertical control arms rather than being absorbed by the spring when the controls arms are nearly flat, as they should be. LOL your short arms don't unload because there's likely very little down-travel. For me, off road performance is all about the droop, and little about the compression.

If your t-case lever shifts okay, chances are it's shifting into 4wd okay. If you don't get some jerking in the front when turning tight on a dry surface, chances are the vacuum disconnect in the front axle is not working properly. A free and easy fix is to remove the shift fork from the front axle (4 bolts), slide the shift collar to the locked position, and reinstall the shift fork upside down to hold the shift collar engaged. Now you will have 4wd for sure.Test on loose gravel.

The main draw-back would be the steep angle of the control arms, performing poorly on road and off. You would want drop brackets or long-arms for that tall spring height.

Performance Offroad Center (PORC) has the best price on a sye kit. It's a relatively easy install, just invest in a set of split ring pliers (ends look like a knurled duck-bill). JK shaft won't work. Look at using a TJ or XJ front driveshaft. Consider a new transfer case chain if your t-case has 70k miles or more, new chain is only $70. The 8.8 with flange adapter should work with the driveshaft you build for the sye. You're better off installing the 8.8 at the same time so you can properly adjust pinion angle.

That trackbar should work, but you may have to remove a little metal on the top of the lower bracket where the trackbar hits as you move it upward toward the frame. This is due to the large amount of lift you have. Your upper bracket on the frame needs the taper drilled out to work with that large bolt. Or you can return it for one that uses a tierod type end on the frame mount, like teraflex, a great unit. I would suggest not using a drop pitman arm to keep your draglink parallel with the trackbar.