Bounty Hunter

Where 'bouts are you? I'm near St. Louis on the IL side, we've got a Superlift run and a run to the Shawnee Nat'l Forest planned for October.

http://pueblo.craigslist.org/cto/1970956312.html

Its about 3 1/2 hour drive for us but its worth it,not much of a place for quads except for the race track but a ton of fun in the jeep!! Hour and 15min for me, so basically in my backyard. I've had my quad all over, the rocky trails are a little tough on my 2wd sport quad but I like the challenge, definitely wear me out. Shoot me a PM if you plan any return trips.

Just because high pinion gears run on the correct side of the tooth in a front application does not make a SMALLER ring and pinion stronger than a LARGER ring and pinion. Especially as gears get deeper and pinions get smaller. It is all of those, the least of which is the unit bearings. Sure the unit bearings don't last long with oversize tires, but they don't commonly fail on the trail, where axlehousings, axleshafts, and R&P's do fail. Sure the Waggy axle is pricey to swap into a coil spring application, what axle upgrade isn't? That's why a person may as well spend a little more and narrow a high pinion axle with a heavier housing. And the TNT truss isn't the only answer to installing a d44 front axle, Ballistic Fab is a good affordable option.

Yet you still have a weak axle housing, weak ring and pinion, fewer and more costly highsteer options, non-serviceable wheel bearings, no lockouts, small brakes, etc....

Yep, install a 231.

I could use the same help as I need to replace both of mine. Will be watching for answers.

I don't, but JP Magazine does: www.jpmagazine.com/techarticles/drivetr ... index.html :clapping:

Yes there is a special tool and adjusting this sleeve is essential for the correct preload in the steering knuckle.

Sure it'll go through without issues, you just don't want to get caught with an open title. If it's dated, and you wait to long to re-title, there may be extra fees due to the time elapsed.

It will stay engaged just fine, flip it and forget about it. Trace the one vacuum line from the transfer case to the intake manifold and unhook it from the intake manifold. Then cap the vacuum port on the intake manifold.

Find a rear d44 from a mid '90s Isuzu Rodeo or Honda Passport, they have disc brakes and same 6-lug wheel pattern as the Waggy front axle. They make a great pair, been running them beneath my YJ and picked up another set for the MJ.

In case somebody comes across this thread in a search, possessing an unassigned title (open title) is a felony. To clarify, a title signed by the seller but not the buyer is an unassigned title. So if you wish to risk a felony charge, by all means, possess all the open titles you wish.

He's right, you'll need an '82+ front d44 from a Wagoneer to work with your current transfer case. The TNT truss is a good option but they're pricey once you add all the brackets you need to bolt it into your MJ. Check out brackets available from Ballistic Fab also, another affordable option to installing a d44 in your Jeep. http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Lin ... _1461.html A downside to the Waggy d44 is the low pinion, I hit mine all the time in the rocks. I'm currently building two high pinion d44's for both my jeeps. If you're going through the trouble of adding all the brackets, you may as well do a little extra work and upgrade to a HP44 axle. Look for a late '70s Ford d44 from a 3/4t truck with leaf springs. The inner-C's will need cut from the axle and the axletubes narrowed. I'm cutting mine down to Wagoneer width so I can run OEM Waggy axleshafts, saving the cost of custom shafts. I'm doing it myself but a local 4wd shop quoted me $300 to narrow the axle, all the cutting and rewelding the inner-C's.

Plugging the vacuum lines will not prevent it from shifting, but if you removed the vacuum switch and replaced it with a plug the plug may interfere with the shift rail. Try moving the tailshaft back and forth when attempting to shift.

I guess '88 or '89 as well, and aren't most or all Sport Truck's 2wd? Looks like a 5spd, so rules out the common AX4 transmission.

The transfer case engagement is still mechanical with the lever inside the jeep. You can remove the vacuum harness from the vacuum switch on the transfer case. Water in the switch will not enter the transfer case. Cap the red line from the intake manifold to prevent a vacuum leak.

Yes tie them up. Find the red vacuum line from the intake manifold to the transfer case. Cap it at the manifold. You don't need to cap any other lines.

To save the hubs, back the three 12mm bolts out 1/8" at a time and tap them with a hammer to force the hub from the knuckle. Cover the bolt heads with a socket when striking them so you don't booger them up too bad. As for the balljoints, use a good balljoint press and when they're under tension you can strike the side of the C around the balljoint with a BFH to help them pop loose. Strike at a 90º angle to the balljoint to temporarily egg-shape the hole and break loose the corrosion. Same method works great for TRE's.

A minimal amount of gear oil will come out, shouldn't need to add any back. You can check/add the gear oil at the differential cover fill hole. Use whatever weight gear oil you normally use in the diffs. If you do this with the jeep parked on a slight angle down toward the driver's side, less gear oil will come out.

You don't need to do anything to the c-clip, simply install the disconnect upside down and the fork will be on the correct side to hold the collar in the locked position. If the collar doesn't slide over the splines easily, turn the steering wheel one way or the other to get the axleshaft to turn slightly, lining up the splines.

Wrong. My '95 YJ and every '95 YJ I've worked on has the front axle disconnect.

The blue vacuum line is a vent, shouldn't be connected to anything. You can also remove the vacuum disconnect from the axle, slide the collar into the locked position. Reinstall the disconnect upside down and it will hold the collar in the locked position. The vacuum setup isn't bad if you learn how to troubleshoot it.

It's possible you may need to rotate the speed sensor slightly in the tailshaft housing to get better speedo gear contact.

It will work if they're scuffed good for a rough surface to adhere to.