Bounty Hunter

Could be a number of things, I'd start by removing the throttle body and giving it a good bench cleaning with carb cleaner and an 'old' toothbrush. Pay special attention to the IAC housing. Then adjust the TPS after reinstalling the TB.

that's a much better way to replace pinion bearings :yes:

Too short, but it works in many XJ's. You can have the front shaft lengthened, will run about 1/3 the cost of a custom rear CV driveshaft.

Yes, bottoming out would cause the catastrophic over-compression of the driveshaft. It's when the entire rear suspension compresses and moves the pinion upward toward the bed.

Here's how to measure, most all driveshaft shops would use this type of measurement.

Hopefully the rear axle would move back slightly as the suspension compresses, but I wouldn't count on it to not break the transfer case when over-compressed.

Any word of where this truck is currently?

The yokes are generally the same length and you don't want to give up any spline engagement inside the yoke. Around here it runs about $60 to have a rear shaft professionally shortened and balanced.

I'm sure that's a huge difference in rolling resistance :roll: And at a definite compromise of strength. Find an 80's Waggy front axle, it has a stronger housing than a Scout d44 and the diff will be on the correct side. Add the brackets and call it good. Then swap in an Isuzu Rodeo d44 in the rear and you'll have disc brakes and 6-lug at all 4 corners.

The TNT truss is nice but it adds up soooo quick once you add all the needed brackets. I think I'll be going with Ballistic as well for brackets.

Yep, gonna be a lot wider than your rear axle and a Waggy front d44. If you want a good base d44 to start with and attach the needed brackets, find a late '70s HP44 from a Ford 3.4t truck. Cut the inner C's off and narrow it to Waggy width. Then you get a high pinion, OEM axleshafts, and can run Chevy or Jeep outers for the 6-lug wheels.

I'd check state law before you remove ANY vin tag. :doh:

Spidertrax 1.25", www.4wd.com has them for $100 a pair.

There's a GM tierod end with a small taper similar to the stock Jeep TRE's, you can use it at the pitman arm to avoid having to ream it out.

The only vacuuum disco d44 from a Waggy is '84 and '85 I believe, I run one with a cable attached so I can turn easier with the front spool. I also run a mid '90s Rodeo rear d44, comes standard with disc brakes and matching 6-lug wheel pattern. The Rodeo d44 is most often found with 4.30 gears, it's a thick ring gear on a carrier designed for taller gears, ala 3.07 and 2.72. The other two main goofy things about the 'zu d44 is the pinion flange should be swapped for a yoke, and one pinion bearing is an oddball size compared to most d44 install kits. Really not a problem, just means taking the old pinion bearing to the parts store for cross-reference of the numbers. I'm building 2 new d44's for my MJ and YJ, starting with 3/4ton HP44 housings from a late '70s Ford truck. Cutting the inner C's and narrowing the tubes in order to run Waggy axleshafts. Brackets and a Rough Country longarm upgrade and I'll be good to go.

At least you're still money ahead compared to an off the shelf dynatrac axle. I'm narrowing two 3/4t HP44's for my MJ and YJ, running Waggy shafts so no expense on custom shafts.

I think we'll need lots of pics of both in order to give good advice :clapping:

My brake lights work but only when the pedal is about 1/2 way down and the brakes are on firm. Is there anything I can do to the brake light switch on the pedal to make it turn on as soon as I tap the pedal? Thanks :brows:

Did you get a good deal on the front axle? Reason I ask is it looks like you're still limited by unit bearings, smallish brakes, and no locking hubs. Most d44's are heavier at the ends.

Good job on the welding. From the look of the angles on the swaybar endlinks, I'd remove the spacers dropping the swaybar away from the chassis. It would move the entire swaybar upward and clean up the jungle gym a bit under there.

You mentioned both of you riding the atv initially, is 2-up riding allowed on a single seat machine where you intend to ride? Most places I've been to only allow a passenger if the machine is designed for it.

UPS should show how many boxes were sent and how many were delivered. If they scanned the correct number of boxes at time of delivery, sounds like somebody helped themselves to half a lift.

Great job on the detailed pics. I would move the ground cable for the winch, the tailgate does not have a good contact with the chassis. Attach the ground to the chassis after cleaning the attachment point.

I'd recommend against using the shims in the above link, the kind that simply space the wheel without attaching with lug nuts. Go for a set of real spacers that attach to the axle with lug nuts, like Spidertrax for $100pr.

4.3L GM combo. Thanks for the pics, now I know what my black '89 will look like when I find a '97+ front clip.