Bounty Hunter

These guys have it figured out, disconnect the rear driveshaft at the axle and tie it up good. For flat-towing, leave it in gear or Park and put the t-case in neutral and you're good to go.

No need to ship, I'm in IL too. Pics of dents to my email please?

Looking for '01 fenders and hood if straight. What condition and price?

What color and condition is the 01 front clip? How much?

I use to run the switch dasbulliwagon posted, worked great and an easy install. I run a cable now, on my spooled disco d44 I ran a lincoln locker on my d30, controlling the disco manually makes a great poor-mans selectable locker lol.

Here's one similar to what I used from a Grand Wagoneer with Quadratrac 4wd. It can be found in either a dial as shown or a lever similar to a HVAC fan speed lever. I used the lever and mounted it below my dash, nice 'woosh' sound when disengaging.

Did the same thing on my YJ but used a switch from a SJ with the Quadratrac 4wd system. It's a simple lever switch designed for use with vacuum, switching a source vacuum between 2 lines. Perfect for this setup, no dissassembly or added springs to the disconnect housing needed.

Where is this junkyard? I'll be through St. Elmo next weekend on my way to Shelbyville.

Check the round tag on the back of the transfer case for the model number, it's likely a 231. There's a slight chance of it being a 207 if it's an early '87 model. The Wrangler AX15 clocks the transfer case higher than the XJ/MJ equivalent, so it may cause clearance issues between the transfer case and the body. If you're upgrading transmissions, look for a '94+ model with the external clutch slave, a much improved design over the internal slave.

Easier fix. Remove the disconnect, slide the collar to 'locked', reinstall the disconnect upside down. The fork will now hold the collar in the 4wd position.

Shims=Bad, Spacers=Good :waving:

Anybody ever have the fuse block apart? I'm thinking I've got corrosion issues inside and would rather repair them than bypass the fuse block.

Yes, I've had the radio out, but I've also had the HVAC control out and plugged everything back in. The point I'm diagnosing now is upstream of the dash, so I'm not too concerned about that point of the system yet. Thanks though, everything is appreciated.

Chasing down a wiring gremlin in my '89 MJ 2.5L, trying to diagnose an inoperable heater blower. I've had the blower motor out and it works fine when 12v is applied. Here's my ref material: http://www.bteventures.com//mj1988electricalmanual.pdf I tested the positive lead to the blower at the blower and it showed around .7v and I tested the ground at the same location and it seemed fine. I jumped straight to the fuse panel beneath the dash and tested the blower feed. .7v at this location as well. I tested the two other items on the same circuit and the radio feed tested at .7v and the turn/BU feed tested fine at 12.5v. Any ideas as to why I'd have 2 different voltages between the 3 items on the same circuit? I'm not very experienced diagnosing electrical problems so all help would be greatly appreciated.

My '89 doesn't have it but I suspect it's not an original front end. It does have a similar tag down low behind the grill.

Do as you will, but here's the correct hooks for recovery:

Do they have a weight rating on them? They're designed for use with a static load, not for the forces involved in vehicle recovery.

Please, do not install those hooks on your truck. Those hooks are designed to be attached to a length of chain, not mounted to a vehicle for recovery.

Another easy method for removing the bearing assemblies is to back out the 3 hub bolts 1/8" at a time, then cover the bolt head with a socket and tap the bolt. This pushes the bearing assembly out of the knuckle 1/8" at a time. Beats the BFH and chisel method.

So what we've deduced is that it's a factory VIN tag? I'll agree that it appears it was designed to break off the lower half since the two halves are identical. But for what purpose?

The rivets are factory 'rosette' type rivets, I would leave it alone. It's a felony to remove any VIN from a vehicle.

Front wheels on the dolly, then disconnect the rear driveshaft at the pinion yoke and tie the driveshaft up below the tub securely. My '89 2.5L blows oil out the dipstick tube, as do many other early 2.5L's from what I've been reading on here.

Likely an AX4 or AX5 if it has a black cast iron plate running side to side between a front and rear case half.

Looked like the entire rear half of the transmission to me, and a lot more involved.

I was on the fence until you added the endcaps, really helped make the bumper complete. I'd add diamond-plate to the back so you can see it through the bumper, then paint it to match. It would help hide the under bed area and make it blend into the truck a little more.