Bounty Hunter

WAY over-complicating locking the d30 in the locked position. Simply remove the disconnect, slide the shift collar over both axleshafts, and install the disconnect upside down. Holds the axleshafts locked together perfectly. I run a manual disconnect and a spool in my front d44, and before that a manual disconnect in my Lincoln Locked d30. They don't make a spool for the d30 but they should LOL.

Are the rear calipers in the correct side? Make sure the bleeder valve is higher than the brake line attachment or you'll never get all the air out of the system.

All the 'Zu d44's I've seen with disc brakes are 4.10 or 4.30 gears. They use a tall ratio carrier and a thick ring gear. They also have one odd-ball pinion bearing that is a different size than standard d44 install kits. Easy to cross-reference the bearing you remove so not an issue.

And if you can handle a 6-lug axle the Rodeo/Passport rear d44 is a good option. Look for mid to late '90s for the correct width and look for disc brakes. Great match to upgrade to a Waggy front axle someday.

Good points, but the charts on the web can still be plenty useful. It's still oranges to oranges because when you find the given RPM for your stock setup it also doesn't take into account the tire deflection you mention. So if you're not considering tire deflection when you start using the chart, tire deflection is not an issue on your final determination. This considering all tires are slightly over-rated in tire size. We know all manufacturers vary on stated size but it's my opinion the charts still have merit. But experience of Jeepers who have used several combinations is usually best.

Same as low gear (numerically higher).

You don't take into account the large increase in tire mass?

I installed a TJ 4wd light switch where the vacuum switch used to be in the 231 but it doesn't work. Don't miss it.

I run the 2lo. While I was in there I upgraded to the wide chain setup and a 6-gear planetary. There is also a 4-gear planetary that is a slight upgrade from Jeep's 3-gear. Most of the parts are available in other t-cases like the 231c, 233c, 231d, 231hd. The 2lo works great, no issues and well worth the money. I also run a front spool in my disco d44 with a manual disconnect. So I'll often rock 3lo and 2lo.

It doesn't matter. Find your stock gear ratio and tire height. Note the listed RPM. Move down to your new tire height and move to the right until your find the RPM close to what you found with the stock setup. Then look up to the new recommended gear ratio. I recommend going one ratio lower (numerically higher) if possible, as the chart accounts for increased tire diameter but not increased tire mass. Erring on the low ratio side greatly improves performance on road and off. The common stock ratio for the 2.5L AX5 setup is 4.11, so I'd definitely go with 4.88 gears. Changing to 4.56 isn't enough of a change to warrant the cost and time involved, and performance will only be slightly improved.

It won't adjust correctly if one TRE is bottomed out in the link. Otherwise it's not a big deal assuming you have enough thread engagement.

It's possible, if something is binding and then letting go. You should be able to narrow it down by changing the fluid in both the transmission and transfer case. Inspect the fluid and drain plug closely.

Incorrect. Improper angles give you bumpsteer, not DW.

The pic doesn't show a stretched chain, all t-case chains sag when the rear case is removed as the shafts shift slightly inward with no rear bearing support. You remove a chain and hold it on edge on one end and look for the chain to bend if it is worn. Or for the tell-tale rub marks inside the case. The symptom of a stretched chain is a loud bang in 4wd, as if hitting the bottom of the Jeep tub with a hammer, when the chain skips on the sprockets.

Can Eagle elaborate on why they might be illegal to use on-road? I think they're a novel ideal to increase approach/departure angles and to prevent side-to-side axleshift.

Yes, they're Unlimited Rubi coils, but they're JK coils. Do you even know if JK coils will fit in an MJ? We all know front TJ coils fit, but that post is for JK coils.

They're JK, not TJ, I wouldn't touch them in hopes they fit.

Good job. I ran stock steering with 6.5" springs and no problem.

The 4.3L does have good attributes over the 350. There's a lot to be said for lighter weight and more room to work on an engine. The 4.3L is a compact powerhouse and what I plan on putting in my '89 MJ. I have the Blazer harness and ECM, I'll have the harness stripped to the bare necessities and the ECM reprogrammed.

I recommend Redline MT90 if you want smooth as butter shifting even in cold weather. It's a full synthetic that is specially formulated to be easy on the synchros. Careful what gear oil you use as many GL5 rated oils are actually corrosive to the soft brass synchros in the AX5 and AX15 transmissions.

Ha definitely the 'tail wagging the dog' that I warn people about when towing with a light tow rig. Just not enough tow rig weight to keep the sway under control. Now some vehicles are being built with sway control, such as the new Grand Cherokee, that uses the computer to bring that type of trailer sway back under control.

Thinking the bottom stud should be mounted on the opposite side of the swaybar bracket:

Looks pretty normal to me. Grand Cherokee's are notorious for eating bearings in the rear axles, especially the d44a. You'll likely need the entire axle rebuilt.

Welding the spiders is not a hack-job if done properly. I ran welded front spiders on my CAD axle for years with no problems, on road and off. The Jeep would climb just about anything it was pointed at. I ran a manual disconnect (first manual vacuum switch, then cable) so I could run 3wd for the tight trail turns. Poor-man's selectable locker IMO. But to each their own, I wouldn't suggest it for just anybody. You have to know what you're getting into. The steering should be upgraded with a cooler when using a front locker, the steering fluid really heats up on twisty trails.

The pics looked like you could fit a little more shim, even on the passenger side where the bolts are shorter. Also judging from the pic your pinion angle is too high, which should correct itself once you lengthen the lower control arms to correct caster.