watchamakalit

X2

I have never considered donating to any forum (and I am on several across many topics), with this being the lone exception. We are truly a rare breed of people who have good enough taste to appreciate our trucks like we do. That and the fact that my truck would long ago gone to crap without the knowledge and help I have obtained from this group. I have no problems helping with Comanche club. I feel I owe more than I can give sometimes. I have been around here soaking up knowledge since the yahoo days. Not sure I could make enough money to pay all that back. COMACHE CLUB RULES!!!!!

I haven't gotten to watch all the videos but the ones I have were very enjoyable.

Easy boys, if we keep this up Pete will be looking at early retirement.....

I have seen the wipe on clear coat and have considered it. Do you think it would last? I'm just a bit apprehensive about trying it. I was told by a guy with a dozen or so Comanches, that If I want a truck for show tear it down and repaint. He said the down side to the show paint is not wanting to drive it for fear of it getting ruined. I still enjoy driving mine too much for fancy paint. Lol

Holy cow! Way more explanation than I expected, lol. If \when I do repaint I plan to keep the factory color for 2 reasons. 1. I really like the color. 2. I won't have to do jambs and firewall. Yes I'm lazy like that, lol. As of right now I just had plans to sand and "neutralize" the rust as best as possible. Like I said before I know I can't stop it, but am also aware that full bodywork and proper repairs will probably require several panels being replaced. My truck has been my daily for many years and it has the battle scars to show it. My bed is very heavily dented and the fender wells are gone, both doors show the fact that they too have lived their whole life in snow country. Front fenders are in decent shape but in my younger days I removed the air dam and cut them, something I now regret. This is why I'm not ready to tackle a complete repaint just yet. I love the patina of my truck but at the same time would like it to look "loved". I haven't started in on the rust spots yet, because it's the season to drive it not work on it, lol. I am after a slightly glossy look without complete body work I guess. Similar to what VGG does when he shine juices a patina job. But as mentioned, I might paint it one day so I would like to avoid the BLO. Again, thank you for the info and guidance. It won't get done tomorrow, but there is a long term plan on place that will use all of this info and more.

Any advice or tips from the body work knowledgeable among us would be welcome.

Sorry some of that is my fault for reading every new thread. Lol

First go at the polishing thing. Wow what a difference. I am definitely learning as I go here, but so far I'm happy with the results. Not sure the pics do it justice. Wishing I would have done this years ago when there was still a little paint on the hood. Guess it's like going bald, once the hair is gone it's too late for ponytail. Lol

Loose manifold bolts causing a intermittent vacuum leak can cause a surging or occasionally high idle.

Some day I would love to do a complete strip down and rebuild "tomahawk style". But that's a long ways off if it ever happens.

I have looked into that. My issue with the boiled linseed\acetone mix is the tackyness. I am new to the cut and buff \polishing side of things and thought what better project to get aquatinted with the concept, than a truck with an already gone paint job. If I get crazy and screw it up I might just have to rework the whole truck and paint it. Edit:this is just kinda a start of the project I have plans to sand and neutralize as much of the rust as possible. I know I can't stop it but I'm gonna try real hard to slow it down as much as possible.

Yeah I realized it after I posted it.

Well the passenger side is done except for a bit of polishing and wax. Looking much better. Can't wait to put a shine on it.

Just looked at mine, and they are routed just like what you have in the picture. That's not to saw mine hasn't been moved prior to my knowledge. But it's one more truck that backs up your thinking.

Let me preface this with a caveat, I am not a body guy, due to my lack of patience. Pictures don't seem to do it justice, but I started to do some exterior clean up. Decided to sand off the failing clear coat edges and try to feather them into the paint. Hoping to improve the overall looks a bit. After several hours of work and a few lessons on what's too aggressive I have the passenger door and fender ready to polish. So far my method seems to work as long as I don't get excited like I did on the front section of the door. I started with a 400 wet sand focussed on the edge of the clear to take off the failing product. Then a 600 wet and finally start polishing. Could sand finer but the paint isn't very thick so I am trying to be minimal in what I take off. Just trying to blend it all to a consistent color and remove the white "fade line". Any suggestions to make this a simple project are encouraged. Not shooting for show quality just trying to clean it up a bit.

Might be a little late to the party but I found the document I was referring to earlier. 1988 Cherokee FSM-cruise control system.pdf

Today is the day. I swapped all the tools over and put the MJ back into daily driver service. So glad winter is mostly done.

Glad to help.

Somewhere out there is a guide to testing the renix cruise system. I haven't seen it in a while but I know it exists.

I would bet you can find those knobs in about any chry\dodge of the era. Doubt they made special knobs just for the KJ

Ouch. That sucks. Me personally I would send it back. You were hoodwinked and that's against ebay policy.

Thanks for all you do Pete.

Mine is a manual but I'm not sure how that pertains to the topic.

Yes mine deteriorated years ago but I know there was a small round rubber bumper the pedal would rest against.