Minuit

It's been accurate on every vehicle I have checked. Here's my MJ, filler is on the left: My Ford, filler on the right. Gas pump graphic is the same as the MJ.

My T-Bird did. One of the few thoughtful things on that car. And before someone says it, the thing about the graphic of the gas pump on the gauge saying what side the filler is on is BS.

$#!& like this is what sometimes makes me want to leave the 91 in the garage and just drive boring, replaceable cars. Seems like so many CCers are getting hit in their other vehicles these days. I'm dreading the day when we lose a nice MJ to something like this. Very glad you're alright Adam. Hope they nail the guy to the wall.

That was something alright. I was about to turn the game off as the Pats came back. What a comeback! The only reason I have a dog in this fight is that one of the Pats' offensive line came from my high school, but I'd hate to be a Falcons fan right now.

My '89 barely can stay at 75 up hills in 5th and it's got 225/70/15s, but its engine is extremely tired. The 3.07s are definitely not helping, but I'd definitely make sure the engine is running right. How is the power at slower speeds? I'd be checking for an exhaust restriction. When the '91 coughed up its cat it would struggle at any speed, but especially up any kind of hill. The exhaust also sounded very, very wrong.

Run away, and don't look back. Without seeing any pics, from the description I can pretty much guarantee it's a basketcase. 2500 will easily get you a truck that still has a frame left if you keep looking (and he is bull$#!&ting you when he says the rest of the frame is surface rust, I guarantee it. These trucks don't just rust in one place. If the frame is going, everything else probably has cancer too, whether or not you can see it yet.). My advice is to expand your search and either be willing to travel or have the truck shipped.

I'm running 235/75/15s with 3.55s and a 34 tooth green speedo gear. Those speed trailers the cops put up every now and then always seem like they read a little lower (significantly, as in about 20%) than my indicated speed. On the highway, the odometer is dead on with mile markers at all speeds. I agree with Eagle - use something more precise than a GPS to see. Highway mile markers across about 10 miles would be my suggestion - that would also give you a rough idea of the percentage that your speedometer is off by. Nothing is absolutely perfect and you can't necessarily trust highway mile markers to be exactly a mile apart, but basing your decision off of just a GPS will probably just make you chase your tail.

Man, that's what passes for a crusty tailgate down there? Probably still even has the bottom seam intact! That is a really nice bench, though.

I've seen these in XJs and MJs before. If I'm remembering correctly they were the OEM AM/FM only decks before Chrysler took over. It won't use the typical single Jeep/Eagle Premier connector, so watch out for that. In fact, it doesn't look like it uses the twin AMC connectors either. This being AMC, there are probably different versions for every vehicle they were offered in. Here's one that does use the typical connector: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rare-Vintage-AMC-Jeep-AM-Radio-8936000931-Cherokee-Wagoneer-/322390892936?hash=item4b0ffea188:g:ZyQAAOSw4GVYJc5Y&vxp=mtr Here's the AM/FM/tape radio from about the same time: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-AM-FM-Radio-Cassette-Jeep-CJ-YJ-Laredo-Renegage-Golden-Eagle-Jamboree-/132072956611?hash=item1ec02962c3:g:R7YAAOSwa~BYVwKw&vxp=mtr

Dunno what it's out of, I just found it sitting on the ground in the JY, but it fits the AX-15 shift lever and feels great in the hand. I tried one from the parts store and took it off after about 15 miles. Didn't feel good at all.

I saw this too! Matt took the visor, tailgate, and lights for sure. I'm wondering why someone junked it. The damage doesnt look too awful bad. Yeah, someone could've definitely saved that. Looks like before it was hit it was pretty clean. I've seen so many good project trucks in the JY, it makes me wonder what goes through some people's heads. They're probably just tired of looking at them and don't feel like selling them. I saw an '88 Eliminator late last year that was straight and looked pretty much perfect except for a horrible orange paint job. Completely rust free, even on the floors. In retrospect, I probably should've cut the floors out of it and used them to fix my trucks. It probably could've sold for at least $1000 no matter what was wrong with it under the skin.

This one was in a BleepinJeep video. It had a Lund visor and a good bench seat in it when it first got there.

Mine is facing up at an angle from the block. Dunno if that would cause problems or not.

It's probably doing what Hippie66 is talking about. It's probably not actually slowing the blower down, it's just losing vacuum and blowing through the defrost vents. Next time it does it feel for air coming out of the top of the dash. If air starts coming from the defrost vents, you've got a vacuum leak somewhere between the engine and the HVAC system. A good place to start would be the vacuum container behind the bumper. Trace the line coming from it for any damage, and make sure the vacuum line is pushed into it all the way. There's also a connector near the blower motor on the firewall that you might have accidentally bumped when changing the blower.

Great idea. I do this for everything - vacuum lines, bolts, brackets, any little thing I can think of any time I go to the junkyard. As a general rule, I keep any fastener I take off at the junkyard, so now I have a cigar box sized collection of at least one of probably every major bolt on an XJ/MJ, and especially for Renix era trucks, having a few spare vacuum lines is essential. If you're doing a speaker install, most aftermarket car speakers have two different sizes of quick disconnect terminals on them. On my speakers, the + terminal is 0.187" wide, and the - is 0.110". They did this for a reason! This is so you can attach the proper size connectors and not be able to mix the + and - up! This might not be a problem when you're looking at a wiring diagram, but it's very easy to accidentally hook them up the wrong way if the speaker has to come out for any reason. Hooking up speakers out of phase makes the system sound much worse. The ones you find at the parts store are usually way too big, but they can be found on ebay. Or better yet, go to somewhere like Digikey or Mouser and get some from a reputable brand like AMP or Molex. They're much nicer than the cheap junk you see in most places, and much less likely to fall off by themselves. The ones that places like Crutchfield sell are passable. If your connectors haven't been hacked off, you can also get adapters that will plug in to them. Oh yeah, and the round hole you see in the speaker bracket is for the wiring harness. I noticed about 5 seconds after taking this picture... :doh:

Never had a problem with it except for that. I thought it was also clunky uploading pictures? Plus it advertises every time you use it. I wouldn't know. I don't use it for pics. I've used the PM function with pics and it seemed just fine. Just know if you see that signature on one of my posts there's a 97% chance I posted it from the crapper. But everyone needs to know that I have an LG Dwhateverblahblahblah! Anyway, the sentry is really cool. I know I'd be tempted to go through all the trouble to get it working as intended if I had one, and I'd probably lose the rest of my hair and give up in the process. I don't imagine these things were terribly reliable even when new. Anyone ever have an XJ with a working one?

Never had a problem with it except for that.

I don't think that was the right link Don. Pulled up a nasty dispute between a member and some mods on deleting his post. I'm gonna try searching again... Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk Huh, link works fine on the computer. Checked it again on my phone and it pulls up the same spat between a certain member and several Mods. Odd...... Hmm, I get the same thing on Tapatalk. On my PC I get a thread about the sentry.

Yep.

Thanks, much appreciated. If I can ask, what did they charge? For reference, I got a quote of $120-140 from that company to repair the intermittent backlight on my otherwise 100% functional AM/FM/Cassette deck. That's several times the value of the radio, so I just decided to live with it. Considering these Mitsubishi built decks all are subject to bad solder joints I could probably poke around and find at least one bad joint that is causing the problem. I might have considered spending that much for repairs if it was a factory CD in question.

I can recommend Steve's headliners. I put one in my '91 in 2013 and it still looks like it did the day I took it out of the box. I had my sunvisors recovered by him at the same time and they still look fantastic as well.

Just for poop and laughter, try pressing the brake pedal REALLY hard. That's supposed to reset the warning switch.

Almost all of them were ripped off at some point and never put back on. Mostly because the early model ones at least get soggy and torn up and are a real PITA to deal with if you have to do anything on the bottom of the engine. Apparently the 97+ ones are made out of a different material, but I don't know if I've ever seen one of those.

P/N is 55174736. Still available somehow.

I'm a couple of weeks behind on my build thread so it's been finished for a little while, but yes, it was very, very worth it. Sometimes I regret taking away from the originality of the truck and part of me didn't want to make such a drastic change, but once I was finished I was glad I decided to do it. It was very important to me that I can put it back to stock if I want to, and other than about 5 pre-punched divots that were drilled out (most for the center console), I could put it back to 100% stock in about a weekend. Thank you very much! I try to share the things I learn as I go along. When I started this I had no mechanical experience at all, so it's definitely been a learning experience for me and I'm glad it can help people out. I look forward to seeing your build thread.