Minuit

Thanks for the info. I looked at a pair of 93s today and they had a different setup from what the 91s have. In what I guess must have been cost cutting the 93 harnesses didn't have the connector on the engine harness, it just went straight to the light. 1990 and earlier had that retractable thing that always breaks, and a different connector, so I guess this is another subtle MY91 specific thing, and the parts book seems to agree. The '93 harnesses (and I guess the later ones) looked just like the cut one in your pic, but the lights themselves looked exactly like what you have on your truck. I can't find anything on that connector either, or I'd just make my own harness. It looks tantalizingly close to some common connectors but it's probably some obscure French thing Jeep bought a truckload of at one point and was never seen again. Naturally there's no markings of any kind on it. Gotta love having a 1991. 80% Chrysler, 10% Renix, and 10% all its own :fs1:

I believe the WJ uses the ABS sensors for its speedometer. Dunno how that's going to affect adapting an "old" style speedometer pickup.

:clapping:

Most likely, there's just barely enough pressure in the system to trip the low pressure switch but not enough to keep it on - in English, you're low on refrigerant. My truck started doing this just before the system went totally empty due to a bad evaporator. If you're going to do any type of A/C work, grab a set of manifold gauges, a can tap, a vent thermometer, and if doing any replacement of parts a vacuum pump. If you don't have one a small portable scale will also be very useful. You can't do it properly without special tools. Read up on the proper procedures, and don't bother with the "quick charge" kits at the parts store. It's very easy to mess something up with those. You'll need to know what type of refrigerant your truck uses. It'll be easier to deal with if it's already been converted to R-134a. The service ports will be "quick disconnects" if it has been.

Some things are still available that you don't expect. If that little slot wasn't just the most perfect place for an aux cable I'd be all over this. I'm sure someone will need this though :thumbsup:

I don't see any change in the diameter. This is really weird. I don't see anywhere there would be a fastener, any signs of a fastener that is missing, or anything broken on the heater box that would prevent this. Once the box is installed it's never caused a problem (it's been this way at least since I replaced my heater core almost 2 years ago) but it's really easy to knock it loose while installing it.

From the drawings it looks like there's only push nuts on the "driver" side where the door attaches to the vacuum actuator's shaft. Is there supposed to be one on the other end? The push nut on the driver side of the door is there. Here's a video of what I'm talking about:

This is on my '91 with A/C. It's the original heater box. There doesn't seem to be any fastener for the defroster door in the HVAC box. If I pull on the shaft that connects it to the vacuum actuator it will come out of its little slot in the box and get stuck. I can't see a spot for for a fastener to go and I can't find any reference to it in the parts manual, but is there something that's supposed to be there? I can provide a pic if necessary.

Depending on all the vehicle changes from the factory settings (engine wise), short and long term fuel trim strategies would require miles of driving to re-learn their values. That's what I'm thinking too Ωhm. With the stroker engine, bigger injectors, throttle body, etc. I have maybe it takes longer because it's so different than the stock ECU trim settings it causes a lengthier learning process. :dunno: Would be nice if we could flash these old OBD1 computers.......... I think this is probably the right answer. My engine is 100% stock so my "learned" map is probably not so different from the ECU's base settings. Yours on the other hand...

Hey, with a Renix it's easier. Don't need to disconnect the battery for it to forget how to run :D

If the battery is disconnected for a long amount of time mine runs kind of off for about the first 2-3 drives. Never threatens to stall, but just doesn't quite idle right. The weirdness is usually only really noticeable when stopping to go from reverse to drive. Doesn't seem to depend on mileage for me, no matter how long the drive is it's usually back to normal pretty quickly. That's if the battery is out for a REALLY long time - I suppose long enough for the capacitors to naturally discharge. If the terminal is off for just overnight or for a few minutes it seems to have no effect. My battery's been out for almost a month now. If I can remember I'll try to record how it acts and how long it takes to go back to normal.

Photobucket was a steaming pile of $#!& long before this happened. None of the others are much better. One thing that really doesn't sit well with me is destroying knowledge. When Photobucket decided to hold people's pics at ransom they destroyed a lot of knowledge that the Jeep community (and many others) may never get back. Anyone else remember Imageshack? That's what I used to use "back in the day" I totally agree with Lucas7667 on ads. I can't bear to use the internet without an ad blocker anymore. Hey web designer, maybe if you didn't automatically play a video ad once I scroll halfway down the page I wouldn't have installed an ad blocker? Too bad I'm missing out on all of the hot singles in my area. :dunno:

That's the deal of a lifetime for a '91 4x4 with a D44, rusty or not. It's even all one color! I've been looking for an underhood light for mine off and on. If you get a chance can you get a pic of what the connector looks like? I thought I had found a light but it turns out the connector was cut off of it. And of course the one listing I found for one doesn't show the connector.

WOW that's beautiful! Any truck in that condition IMO goes into the "restore, keep largely as found" bin. Other than the interior being tan, this really takes me back! I say pop the dents out, maybe upgrade the interior a little bit, but otherwise keep it the way it is :) I'm typically in favor of keeping the factory radio (see my signature) but those pushbutton AM-only radios are just plain outdated. If you want to keep the stock look, there are several other stock radios with that look that will plug in and give you more functionality including AUX inputs and maybe Bluetooth while looking right in the dash. '89 seems to be a little late for that style of radio, but I have seen them occasionally. I can't really make it out in the pic, but does the radio say "Jeep" on it or have the AMC triangles?

My guess is that the "designer" didn't know either.

I bought a few springs at Ace and did this a few months ago. Parking brake hasn't popped since. I can actually use it now!

Progress report! Floors are POR-15'd, and I'm currently working on getting the foam and MLV cut for the floor. In addition, the heater box is coming back together nicely. Basically, I have about 3 separate projects going right now. The silver POR-15 is a fairly good color match to the truck's paint, not that it matters: I'm about 90% happy with how it turned out. There's a few air bubbles, probably from me applying it a little too quickly. Except for a few air bubbles it looks to have adhered very well. I used the full lineup of products. Rust-oleum Aircraft Remover to get rid of the old paint, water and POR's degreaser to clean it up, Metal Prep to phosphate the now bare metal, and finally the paint itself. I probably spent more time grinding than I really needed to, but I wanted to make sure all of the scale was gone. Side note: Aircraft Remover has got to be one of the most unpleasant chemicals I have ever worked with. It's got an awful, sickly smell, but it works. I did not see the need to POR-15 where the original paint remained undamaged, so the transmission tunnel in front of the shifter didn't get painted. I made new neoprene foam rubber gaskets for the shifter and 2wd consolation panel. I quickly learned to not even bother trying to make a "nice" gasket with this stuff. To be cut with any precision at all it needs to be pushed up against a flat surface. If the stars don't align just the right way, the material will just rip instead of cutting cleanly, even with a shaving sharp knife. Side side note: why did Jeep think that self-tappers were a good way to hold a shifter on? Especially with the fairly well thought out engineering elsewhere, it just seems out of place. Even after all of the $#!& I've gone through with this truck, I generally think it's very well put together. Stuff like this is just downright crude though. Getting a square sheet of foam to fit over an irregularly shaped floorpan is sometimes a challenge. To make the foam fit tightly on the transmission tunnel I needed to make some relief cuts, and then glue in some new material to cover the seams. Also, I de-rusted my console brackets! It's important that this foam underlayment fits tightly over the floor, since I'm covering it with mass loaded vinyl, which works much better as a sound barrier if it's not in contact with the metal at all. Did I mention that this particular foam rubber can be kind of a pain in the @$$ to work with? That's why the console bracket holes might look a little bit too big. My process is very similar to what you'll see on sites like Sound Deadener Showdown. I also adjusted the driver side door and fender to greatly improve the panel gap. This truck said hi to a deer at about 35 mph 15 years ago, and this is probably why the fender gap is a little wonky. It's not perfect but it's much better - the fender is tucked in just a tiny bit more than it should be compared to the bottom of the door. Otherwise the door lines up fine, so I'm pretty sure it's just the fender. I'm sure I could fix it entirely if I stuck a shim under the bottom fender mount, but I've got more important stuff to worry about right now. I also removed the top shim from the driver door hinge to compensate for hinge wear. The door closes much easier now, and lines up with the striker perfectly. I'm very much aware that it isn't a permanent fix, but it'll do for now until I can get my hinges rewelded.

Dash harness routing: The holes in the dash for the zip ties are 1/4". These zip ties are a good match for the factory ones.

1990 FSM has 14 ft-lb for the strap to yoke bolts.

Yeah, I used the zipties. PITA if the cooler has to come out again, but it was easy to install.

On the subject of trans coolers John, I think you should add one. I mounted a Hayden 678 in front of the aux fan like this: I don't tow with this truck (yet) but it's one of the larger models Hayden offers and they advertise it as being suitable for up to 5,000 pound loads on vehicles with GVWR of up to 24k pounds, so something like this would probably suit your needs quite well. My transmission seemed somewhat more responsive once up to temperature after adding it, and I've had no issues after almost a year. I have it plumbed after the radiator to allow the coolant to warm the transmission oil on cold days, but for heavy towing I'd probably leave the radiator out entirely, which would take the heat load of the transmission off of the radiator. I noticed no meaningful change in A/C efficiency or engine temps after adding the cooler, but as I said I don't tow. In a towing situation where the transmission fluid gets very hot I imagine there probably would be at least some difference. Sadly I didn't have the foresight to measure transmission temps before and after, but I do know that this particular AW4 has overheated before, and this truck has never towed anything bigger than a lawnmower in its life. I agree that the AW4's cooling is lackluster at best, and I'm not sure how much the small serpentine factory cooler would help for frequent towing. BTW: my radiator is the CSF 3-row, and the engine runs at 200-205 no matter what (ECU temp, not guessing based on looking at the gauge.) With the factory radiator I had wild temperature swings, especially upon coming to a stop after driving on the highway. That's my experience, and yours may vary, but switching to the 3-row radiator greatly improved my cooling.

Was the new engine temp sensor aftermarket or Mopar, and was it for the gauge or ECU? If it's for the gauge you want to verify it. I have experience with multiple aftermarket temp sensors reading 20+ degrees too high on the gauge (compared to the ECU temp sensor read through the diagnostic port). Mopar sensors, while not perfectly accurate to the temp the ECU reports, are much closer to reality. Not saying this is your problem but it eliminates another variable.

I swear I've seen that truck before. Just don't know a name or where I saw it. Voted. I really don't like our President. I think he's an embarrassment. But I really don't like the person he ran against (fine, I admit I felt somewhat ok about one of the people he ran against, but they were gone very early). One thing I have come to terms with is that there's basically nobody running for any office that matches my views.

Pete, does this image hosting service do resizing? Most of my pictures start out very large and are resized to be smaller. Imgur makes this very easy, but is this something that our new photo hosting will do?

Is this company's engineering staff a team of 5 year olds? Did these morons even LOOK at a Jeep blower motor before they decided to grace the market with their $#!&ty product? How do you get something so wrong and let it out the door, and even worse, have the balls to charge $40 for it? There are no words in the English language to describe how much I hate aftermarket parts.